Transfer Case Rebuild & Modification (High & Low Range Gears and Part-Time 4wd Kit) (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

That larger puller is not a Snap On puller. That puller is made by Proto. I don't have the model # for it. They are a bit on the pricer side.

Instead of buying a used Proto puller set, and the smaller Snap On puller, I'm thinking of buying the following two kits from OTC. I own many OTC puller sets and they have served me well.

OTC Puller Set, 11 Pieces, Multipurpose, 2 Jaws - 4532​

OTC 4534 Multi Purpose Bearing and Pulley Puller Set​

If you do a search for them, you'll find them for sale on Amazon and other sites.

I was looking for longer puller when I had my t-case apart last time, and really struggled to find one long enough. I bought and returned three different pullers before giving up. Going from memory, you need at least 8" of distance from hook to threaded rod. That proto tool is awesome.

 

[suzuguru]

This should definitely be a sticky!

 

[Timmy65]

I was looking for longer puller when I had my t-case apart last time, and really struggled to find one long enough. I bought and returned three different pullers before giving up. Going from memory, you need at least 8" of distance from hook to threaded rod. That proto tool is awesome.

I've been doing some searches online for Proto puller sets. Hopefully Georg can give us a part number off the arms and cross bar.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Depends on the country/region of origin. Some of the early diesel 80s had the HF1A case. These cases require a slightly different rebuild kit ( although they’re vastly the same and the videos will apply to the majority of the rebuild ) but the Sumo gears ( high and low ) won’t work. Marks down under offers gear sets for the HF1A.
The HF1A is a rare bird. If you’re going to go thru the trouble to rebuild/rehear one, then you might want to consider switching to an HF2A as long as your 1A has a shift servo. It’ll be much easier to find replacement parts, rebuild kits, gear sets and replacement cases.

Hope that helps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

Thank you for that info! I checked the FSM and the 1HD-T used the HF2A for full-time 4WD (mine) and the HF1A for part-time 4WD.

 

[Timmy65]

I was watching some of the raw video footage and I did capture the part numbers from the Proto Puller set. The T-Bar is Part #4011. The puller arms are Part #4016.

 

[BucketEighty]

I was watching some of the raw video footage and I did capture the part numbers from the Proto Puller set. The T-Bar is Part #4011. The puller arms are Part #4016.

I did some internet searching and it seems like the T-Bar and Jaws are available in a few of the 10 ton 2 jaw puller sets, some with a metal storage case and some without. The J4232SJ set is one with two sets of jaws and no case and is lower priced than the others.

The parts in the video must be an older version, since the modern 4016 jaws have holes for two length settings and there are no measurement marks on the T-bar.

I'll definitely order this puller when I order my T-case gears.

Proto Puller Set, 2 Way, 10 Ton J4232SJ | Zoro

Order Proto Puller Set, 2 Way, 10 Ton, J4232SJ at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[Timmy65]

I did some internet searching and it seems like the T-Bar and Jaws are available in a few of the 10 ton 2 jaw puller sets, some with a metal storage case and some without. The J4232SJ set is one with two sets of jaws and no case and is lower priced than the others.

The parts in the video must be an older version, since the modern 4016 jaws have holes for two length settings and there are no measurement marks on the T-bar.

I'll definitely order this puller when I order my T-case gears.

Proto Puller Set, 2 Way, 10 Ton J4232SJ | Zoro

Order Proto Puller Set, 2 Way, 10 Ton, J4232SJ at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

What I don't know for sure is if the kit you linked has the same reach as the old 4016 arms. It reports a 7 1/8" reach for the longer arms. @CharlieS seems to remember you need 8" from the hook to the end of the fully retracted threaded rod.

 

[CharlieS]

What I don't know for sure is if the kit you linked has the same reach as the old 4016 arms. It reports a 7 1/8" reach for the longer arms. @CharlieS seems to remember you need 8" from the hook to the end of the fully retracted threaded rod.

I wouldn't go by my memory!

 

[Timmy65]

I wouldn't go by my memory!

I asked Georg to take a measurement of the Proto puller arms for me. When I get his response, I'll comment back here.

 

[Timmy65]

Hey Dudes,

Part 3 is live. Check on Post #3. Part 4 will be coming out very soon which will finalize this series.

 

[NeverFinis]

I am watching Part 3 now. I am impressed with Georg's knowledge and the way he explains why things are done the way they are.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Having watched the first 2 videos I have gained a lot of knowledge and am seriously thinking of doing this upgrade. After looking at car-part.com and seeing how inexpensive transfer cases are I can rebuild one and not have any downtime when I swap the case out.

Now do I do both the high/low side of the transfer case and deal with near 5.368 gear ratio? Might be ideal since I plan on going to 37s soon.

 

[CharlieS]

Georg, you rock. This is some of the best technical material I've ever seen. Thank you!!!

 

[Alron67]

Wow. Great content! This is definitely high on my list of things to do.

 

[Timmy65]

Part 4 is live Fellers. Check out Post #4. This concludes the series. For anyone finding this thread, I hope you appreciate the gift @orangefj45 has provided you. You have to know this is a fairly rare event that an expert in the industry takes time out their busy schedule to share trade secrets they have developed over decades of turning wrenches on Land Cruisers.

I can say with 100% certainty this video series will never be surpassed. Do you know how I know this? It's because the level of work it took to bring this series to you was ENORMOUS! Georg and I filmed for around 12 hours together to capture the necessary footage. Then it was probably 50-60 hours of editing. We put this kind of work into our DIY videos because we want people to succeed. Sure, there are much more succinct videos on this subject matter, but when people get lost and have questions, guess where they will come? That's right, to this series because Georg provided detail and explanation that no other video series will offer.

Happy Wrenching my 80 Series Land Cruiser Brothers!

 

[suzuguru]

Part 4 is live Fellers. Check out Post #4. This concludes the series. For anyone finding this thread, I hope you appreciate the gift @orangefj45 has provided you. You have to know this is a fairly rare event that an expert in the industry takes time out their busy schedule to share trade secrets they have developed over decades of turning wrenches on Land Cruisers.

I can say with 100% certainty this video series will never be surpassed. Do you know how I know this? It's because the level of work it took to bring this series to you was ENORMOUS! Georg and I filmed for around 12 hours together to capture the necessary footage. Then it was probably 50-60 hours of editing. We put this kind of work into our DIY videos because we want people to succeed. Sure, there are much more succinct videos on this subject matter, but when people get lost and have questions, guess where they will come? That's right, to this series because Georg provided detail and explanation that no other video series will offer.

Happy Wrenching my 80 Series Land Cruiser Brothers!

I’m sure I can speak for most everyone here when I say that we really appreciate the effort and expense you both have gone to, in order to educate us on this subject. We genuinely appreciate the effort that has gone into this project to familiarize us with this process.

 

[CharlieS]

Timmy and Georg, thank you so much for doing the time consuming work to share this with us. These videos contain so much valuable (hard earned) knowledge, that most of us would never have access to. Thank you!

Having torn a couple of these apart and reassembled them using the FSM, I have a decent sense of the basics, but watching these videos provides so much in depth information, best practice, and tricks of the trade. It is hands down the best, most thorough, technical content I've seen.

 

[Timmy65]

Timmy and Georg, thank you so much for doing the time consuming work to share this with us. These videos contain so much valuable (hard earned) knowledge, that most of us would never have access to. Thank you!

Having torn a couple of these apart and reassembled them using the FSM, I have a decent sense of the basics, but watching these videos provides so much in depth information, best practice, and tricks of the trade. It is hands down the best, most thorough, technical content I've seen.

You're very welcome Charlie!

I've been very fortunate to partner with experts in the Toyota Auto Mechanics World. I've worked with Nick @ Yotal Performance in Riverbank, California on several projects. I also got to work with the CEO of East Coast Gear Supply to document a couple differential re-gears/rebuilds. And now, I've gotten to work with Georg @orangefj45. It was a pleasure to work with Georg, and a great learning experience for me.

 

[Kernal]

Thanks a bunch to everyone involved in putting this together.