Well not enough progress to warrant pics just yet but Ugly Betty (the Florida version) is officially a frame up restore now. The body is up on sawhorses and 4x4s--Thanks to the posts and ideas I got for accomplishing that without any helpers.
I had done a lot of reading on mud about POR15 and RUST BULLET and well there's a lot of differing opinions so I thought I'd just post my impressions having used both now.
I used POR on my diffs front and rear and in the tub interior. I did some reading and decided to try some rust bullet for the frame.
POR-15
POR-15 was extremely satisfying to apply after the intensive prep. In the tub I rolled it followed by a foam brush using the roll and tip method. In tight areas I just used the foam brush. It flows out nicely and by the time it sets it looks like it was sprayed! On the Diffs it filled the rough cast metal and almost looked like plasti-coat.
It doesn't clump up around bolts or seams and spoil the crisp edges but it fills small imperfections nicely. Because of the peeling effect I would cut out with a razor and area needing touch up to keep from going farther than planned--It may cure harder over time. (I peeled some off after spilling stripper on it)
I made sure everything was spotless to the point of wearing gloves when touching metal. The product literature stresses prep, but who knows if it is really that fussy? The finish makes you step back and say wow! I'm a sucker for a nice finish even on things I won't ever see!
It seemed a shame to cover it with Chassis Coat but it is not UV stable and to use other top coats you must use their TIE COAT primer although I suspect there are suitable subs that are the same thing. The chassis coat is a nice subtle satin.
POR-15 does not store well once you open the can. I put plastic over the can then installed the lid but later with the top all gooked up I used a rubber glove and the fumes ate a hole in them! Buy small cans just in case to limit waste. It thinned okay with acetone or mek for cleanup and acetone will clean it up if you act quick. You will wear POR 15 for a week looking like dirty super glue on your skin if you let if dry.
Comes in silver or black
RUST BULLET
Went through the same prep pretty much and I am meticulous in prep but I was a little paranoid about the POR because they stress the prep soooo much. Probably would not have been a prob but I tried the RUST BULLET anyway. RUST BULLET stresses less prep and compatibility with other paints which is confidence inspiring. It only comes in silver unlike POR but you will still top coat either one though it is not strictly necessary with rust bullet. They also sell a top coat in black.
Both products say they will paint over rust (POR) just fine but I couldn't bring myself to do it--could you? Not after taking the body off the frame! So I prepped as I would for POR.
Rust Bullet is thick and they recommend not thinning it. I stirred it very well. In appearance while still in the can it reminded me of hammered metal by rustoleum with black and metal flake elements.
You could apply it with a foam brush but I think it wouldn't spread evenly or feel like it was "worked in" so I decided to go with a good quality badger brush. RUST BULLET feels almost sticky going on and it certainly feels like it will stay put, even before drying. No drips that's for sure. It doesn't flow out like POR and leaves brush marks about like any other paint but you can feather them out (mostly) but it will never look sprayed without some further work.
Being silver on application the next day from a few feet away it looks like primer gray. With its thick application you can fill up seams and hide details if you go too thickly and when your done it looks good but not nearly as good as the POR. Not sure that matters with a top coat though.
My impression is that this is a very tough coating so I'm glad I'm using it on the frame.
So POR-15 gets top marks for application and appearance and RUST BULLET gets tops marks for seeming a tough coating that will not peel in the tougher areas. I think it will work out if I use the POR for medium to light duty areas and RUST BULLET for the places where it will really take a beating but don't need to be as pretty.
I have had reports of both performing well over time and people seem satisfied with either so these are just my impressions
I had done a lot of reading on mud about POR15 and RUST BULLET and well there's a lot of differing opinions so I thought I'd just post my impressions having used both now.
I used POR on my diffs front and rear and in the tub interior. I did some reading and decided to try some rust bullet for the frame.
POR-15
POR-15 was extremely satisfying to apply after the intensive prep. In the tub I rolled it followed by a foam brush using the roll and tip method. In tight areas I just used the foam brush. It flows out nicely and by the time it sets it looks like it was sprayed! On the Diffs it filled the rough cast metal and almost looked like plasti-coat.
It doesn't clump up around bolts or seams and spoil the crisp edges but it fills small imperfections nicely. Because of the peeling effect I would cut out with a razor and area needing touch up to keep from going farther than planned--It may cure harder over time. (I peeled some off after spilling stripper on it)
I made sure everything was spotless to the point of wearing gloves when touching metal. The product literature stresses prep, but who knows if it is really that fussy? The finish makes you step back and say wow! I'm a sucker for a nice finish even on things I won't ever see!
It seemed a shame to cover it with Chassis Coat but it is not UV stable and to use other top coats you must use their TIE COAT primer although I suspect there are suitable subs that are the same thing. The chassis coat is a nice subtle satin.
POR-15 does not store well once you open the can. I put plastic over the can then installed the lid but later with the top all gooked up I used a rubber glove and the fumes ate a hole in them! Buy small cans just in case to limit waste. It thinned okay with acetone or mek for cleanup and acetone will clean it up if you act quick. You will wear POR 15 for a week looking like dirty super glue on your skin if you let if dry.
Comes in silver or black
RUST BULLET
Went through the same prep pretty much and I am meticulous in prep but I was a little paranoid about the POR because they stress the prep soooo much. Probably would not have been a prob but I tried the RUST BULLET anyway. RUST BULLET stresses less prep and compatibility with other paints which is confidence inspiring. It only comes in silver unlike POR but you will still top coat either one though it is not strictly necessary with rust bullet. They also sell a top coat in black.
Both products say they will paint over rust (POR) just fine but I couldn't bring myself to do it--could you? Not after taking the body off the frame! So I prepped as I would for POR.
Rust Bullet is thick and they recommend not thinning it. I stirred it very well. In appearance while still in the can it reminded me of hammered metal by rustoleum with black and metal flake elements.
You could apply it with a foam brush but I think it wouldn't spread evenly or feel like it was "worked in" so I decided to go with a good quality badger brush. RUST BULLET feels almost sticky going on and it certainly feels like it will stay put, even before drying. No drips that's for sure. It doesn't flow out like POR and leaves brush marks about like any other paint but you can feather them out (mostly) but it will never look sprayed without some further work.
Being silver on application the next day from a few feet away it looks like primer gray. With its thick application you can fill up seams and hide details if you go too thickly and when your done it looks good but not nearly as good as the POR. Not sure that matters with a top coat though.
My impression is that this is a very tough coating so I'm glad I'm using it on the frame.
So POR-15 gets top marks for application and appearance and RUST BULLET gets tops marks for seeming a tough coating that will not peel in the tougher areas. I think it will work out if I use the POR for medium to light duty areas and RUST BULLET for the places where it will really take a beating but don't need to be as pretty.
I have had reports of both performing well over time and people seem satisfied with either so these are just my impressions