- Thread starter
- #61
Last picture for today is of the LED tail lights and the roof clamps mounted up on the rear. You can see the downward facing LEDs that will illuminate the license plate.
Offroad popup camper build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Atoyot1031
- Start date
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nice job!
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks! It's starting to come along...
The original roof (like the rest of the camper) was in rough shape. The foam roof itself was alright, but the wooden sidewalls were completely rotten.
So I removed all four of the sidewalls and the bottom trim/seal pieces.
I took 1x6 poplar for the sidewalls and cut it to length and width. I used 1x8 for the front and rear sidewalls as they were at a 45 degree angle with the roof. After everything was properly cut I again sealed the snot out of it with spars polyurethane. Following the sealing, I skinned them.
After they were prepared, I assembled the walls by pre-drilling, glueing, and screwing them together, then Iinstalled two angle brackets on the inside of each corner to add a little rigidity.
The metal on the roof was in decent shape except for the front and rear.
However, I didn't want a seam on the front and rear corners as I want the roof to shed water. So I cut the metal 1.5" down from the corner which will overlap the newly skinned sidewalls.
Here it is sitting in place.
I got everything screwed with about 3x the original amount of screws used to hold the thing together. I siliconed every joint/seam, screw hole, and screw before and after attaching the sidewalls. Then I installed the original trim /seal pieces that rest against the lower box. Again siliconing and screwing. I'm pretty sure the roof upside would float.
Here's how it looks today.
The original roof (like the rest of the camper) was in rough shape. The foam roof itself was alright, but the wooden sidewalls were completely rotten.
So I removed all four of the sidewalls and the bottom trim/seal pieces.
I took 1x6 poplar for the sidewalls and cut it to length and width. I used 1x8 for the front and rear sidewalls as they were at a 45 degree angle with the roof. After everything was properly cut I again sealed the snot out of it with spars polyurethane. Following the sealing, I skinned them.
After they were prepared, I assembled the walls by pre-drilling, glueing, and screwing them together, then Iinstalled two angle brackets on the inside of each corner to add a little rigidity.
The metal on the roof was in decent shape except for the front and rear.
However, I didn't want a seam on the front and rear corners as I want the roof to shed water. So I cut the metal 1.5" down from the corner which will overlap the newly skinned sidewalls.
Here it is sitting in place.
I got everything screwed with about 3x the original amount of screws used to hold the thing together. I siliconed every joint/seam, screw hole, and screw before and after attaching the sidewalls. Then I installed the original trim /seal pieces that rest against the lower box. Again siliconing and screwing. I'm pretty sure the roof upside would float.
Here's how it looks today.
nice, you guys make me envious with your mad skills.
- Thread starter
- #65
Finished up the roof last night.
Here's the rear with the latches, pulls, trim piece for the transition between the old and new aluminum, and the corner trim in place.
Here's a shot of the side where you can see the corner trim. I had to install it in two pieces as it came in sticks that were ~7' long.
The front with the roof retaining hooks in place and pinned. There is also a piece of the aluminum trim on the front for the transition between the old and new aluminum.
Lastly, a closeup of the rear hardware. I re-used the old latches, but replaced the original white crummy plastic handles with these mirror finish SS pulls.
Here's the rear with the latches, pulls, trim piece for the transition between the old and new aluminum, and the corner trim in place.
Here's a shot of the side where you can see the corner trim. I had to install it in two pieces as it came in sticks that were ~7' long.
The front with the roof retaining hooks in place and pinned. There is also a piece of the aluminum trim on the front for the transition between the old and new aluminum.
Lastly, a closeup of the rear hardware. I re-used the old latches, but replaced the original white crummy plastic handles with these mirror finish SS pulls.
what's usually under the outside veneer plastic (or alum) for most current popups, if anybody knows? Is it like particle board or plywood? How thick? I'm wondering about how sturdy screws attachments for latches etc are...
- Thread starter
- #67
From what I've experience and read, it's all rigid foam, sandwiched between wood paneling and the aluminum. Essentially, it's superlightweight junk, which is why you don't see them offroad. They would shake themselves to bits. I don't think I'll have that problem.
From what I've experience and read, it's all rigid foam, sandwiched between wood paneling and the aluminum. Essentially, it's superlightweight junk, which is why you don't see them offroad. They would shake themselves to bits. I don't think I'll have that problem.
no kidding... so these screws are just into the outside layer and then just air...?
- Thread starter
- #69
Well, the roof is finally complete!
I wired up the running lights- two on the front, two on each side, and one big red bar across the rear. Of course, they are all LEDs.
I also wired up all of the interior roof lights- two single fixtures and one double fixture each bulbed with warm white 1156 LED arrays from superbrightleds.com.
All of the wiring had to be secured above the roof sealing aluminum trim pieces and the plastic trim that I installed up against the roof where the canvas attaches to. Then all of the wiring will go down through a tube of "canvas conduit" that runs down the wall by the galley and down to where I will install my fuse block/power distribution. At any rate, all wires are secure and everthying has been tested and is fully operation.
Here's a couple shots. Like one of my guys said, this thing is gonna look like a UFO traveling down the highway, or a shortbus version of a semi...
Meanwhile, I plumbed in my water pump. Today I put about 20 gallons into the tank, hooked up the pump to a booster battery pack and tested it out. My faucet is a laundry sink faucet as they already have a garden hose addapter on them and do not limit flow through their aerator. They also will stick out over our sink unlike a bathroom faucet, but don't stand up to far as to hit the floor when the galley is folded over and the camper is closed. It was also ~$18 at Lowe's. Here's a shot of the plumbing and the location of the pump. It's a Shurflo pump and I could barely here it over the sound of the faucet running. This thing cranks out water!
Here's an underside view of the plumbing. After the pictures, I sealed up the plumbing penetrations with 3M marine adhesive.
I also have a drain on a flexy line off the back of the tank (at the rear of the camper), so if all else fails, I can still access the 35 gallons of water via gravity.
Lastly, work has begun on the cabinets/benches/bed/galley. The framing is all 3/4"x1 1/2" oak. It's burly. I decided to build the lower galley and DS bench/storage as one piece for easse of construction and further internal structure for the lower box. I'll try and get some pictures of the upper galley and new countertop up soon.
I wired up the running lights- two on the front, two on each side, and one big red bar across the rear. Of course, they are all LEDs.
I also wired up all of the interior roof lights- two single fixtures and one double fixture each bulbed with warm white 1156 LED arrays from superbrightleds.com.
All of the wiring had to be secured above the roof sealing aluminum trim pieces and the plastic trim that I installed up against the roof where the canvas attaches to. Then all of the wiring will go down through a tube of "canvas conduit" that runs down the wall by the galley and down to where I will install my fuse block/power distribution. At any rate, all wires are secure and everthying has been tested and is fully operation.
Here's a couple shots. Like one of my guys said, this thing is gonna look like a UFO traveling down the highway, or a shortbus version of a semi...
Meanwhile, I plumbed in my water pump. Today I put about 20 gallons into the tank, hooked up the pump to a booster battery pack and tested it out. My faucet is a laundry sink faucet as they already have a garden hose addapter on them and do not limit flow through their aerator. They also will stick out over our sink unlike a bathroom faucet, but don't stand up to far as to hit the floor when the galley is folded over and the camper is closed. It was also ~$18 at Lowe's. Here's a shot of the plumbing and the location of the pump. It's a Shurflo pump and I could barely here it over the sound of the faucet running. This thing cranks out water!
Here's an underside view of the plumbing. After the pictures, I sealed up the plumbing penetrations with 3M marine adhesive.
I also have a drain on a flexy line off the back of the tank (at the rear of the camper), so if all else fails, I can still access the 35 gallons of water via gravity.
Lastly, work has begun on the cabinets/benches/bed/galley. The framing is all 3/4"x1 1/2" oak. It's burly. I decided to build the lower galley and DS bench/storage as one piece for easse of construction and further internal structure for the lower box. I'll try and get some pictures of the upper galley and new countertop up soon.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2009
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 71
- Location
- Northglenn colorado
- Website
- www.radelectricalservices.com
lookin good keep up the good work
- Thread starter
- #71
Check out my new exhaust. It's a straight pipe...
Completed my propane plumbing as well. It was all 3/8" flare fittings. I h8flare.;p However, everything is tight, no leaks.
Here's the underside.
Above deck you can see my tee. The flexy line goes to the stove as it has to flex to be folded over, and the rigid line goes to the furnace.
Here's the furnace installed. I tested it and was reading temperatures near 130'F.
Furnace wiring loomed, then headed over to where the fuse block and converter are going to be located.
Lastly, got the PS bench framed...
T-minus 7 days and counting...
Completed my propane plumbing as well. It was all 3/8" flare fittings. I h8flare.;p However, everything is tight, no leaks.
Here's the underside.
Above deck you can see my tee. The flexy line goes to the stove as it has to flex to be folded over, and the rigid line goes to the furnace.
Here's the furnace installed. I tested it and was reading temperatures near 130'F.
Furnace wiring loomed, then headed over to where the fuse block and converter are going to be located.
Lastly, got the PS bench framed...
T-minus 7 days and counting...
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Coming along nicely. can't wait to see it complete.
Amazing...
- Thread starter
- #74
I shimmed the front fullsize bunk yesterday to fit the slide rails using signboard. It worked like a charm.
Putting on my electrical hat, I brought 10ga lines from the battery box (which I mounted on the expanded metal on the tongue) into the camper. I loomed it from the battery box to the converter. The coverter allows the camper to run off either the battery or 110v shore power. It is not a converter/charger unfortunately. In the future, I think I'll invest in one of those solar chargers w/ regulators. From the converter, my power goes into a Blue Sea marine power distributing (6) fuse block. This block allows me to bring in one main power supply.
For the water pump, I wired it through a flush mounting LED rocker switch that illuminates blue when it is on, and then into the fuse block.
For the furnace, I wired the constant power supply through a LED rocker switch that illuminates red when it is on, and then into the fuse block. I also of course wired my thermostat wire through the thermostat which I relocated to directly above the converter, and then into the fuse block on the same circuit.
Lastly, I ran a 10ga ground wire down and out the same hole I made for the power and grounded it to the frame. All in all, I think it turned out well.
Here's a couple shots of the coverter, thermostat and the two LED rocker switches powered on as well as the finished front of the DS bench and lower galley woodwork.
A couple shots of the fuse block mounted and wired up directly behind and below the converter.
I will still need to wire the roof lights into their own circuit once the roof is on as well as tie the roof running lights into the trailer light harness.
The last one for the day is the PS bench complete (sans cushions) along with the fire extinguisher niche. The mitered corner looks much better than the picture due to the flash.
Putting on my electrical hat, I brought 10ga lines from the battery box (which I mounted on the expanded metal on the tongue) into the camper. I loomed it from the battery box to the converter. The coverter allows the camper to run off either the battery or 110v shore power. It is not a converter/charger unfortunately. In the future, I think I'll invest in one of those solar chargers w/ regulators. From the converter, my power goes into a Blue Sea marine power distributing (6) fuse block. This block allows me to bring in one main power supply.
For the water pump, I wired it through a flush mounting LED rocker switch that illuminates blue when it is on, and then into the fuse block.
For the furnace, I wired the constant power supply through a LED rocker switch that illuminates red when it is on, and then into the fuse block. I also of course wired my thermostat wire through the thermostat which I relocated to directly above the converter, and then into the fuse block on the same circuit.
Lastly, I ran a 10ga ground wire down and out the same hole I made for the power and grounded it to the frame. All in all, I think it turned out well.
Here's a couple shots of the coverter, thermostat and the two LED rocker switches powered on as well as the finished front of the DS bench and lower galley woodwork.
A couple shots of the fuse block mounted and wired up directly behind and below the converter.
I will still need to wire the roof lights into their own circuit once the roof is on as well as tie the roof running lights into the trailer light harness.
The last one for the day is the PS bench complete (sans cushions) along with the fire extinguisher niche. The mitered corner looks much better than the picture due to the flash.
Bogo
FOOF
Looks good, but I'd support the copper gas lines. Make it so if stuff in the compartment shifts they won't be harmed.
- Thread starter
- #77
Since that picture of the propane feed, I PL400'd the crap out of it. It could get bent, but can't break in it's current setup.
I've got a battery operated CO and poisonous gas (propane) detector. I haven't seen a 12VDC one, only 120VAC and battery operated.
I've got a battery operated CO and poisonous gas (propane) detector. I haven't seen a 12VDC one, only 120VAC and battery operated.
Looks really good.
Keep it up, this looks great. Where did you source that Fire Extinguisher Niche?
Drew
Drew
Holy smokes this thing is awesome!
Looking forward to seeing it, 5 days left but who is counting...
Looking forward to seeing it, 5 days left but who is counting...
