New guy to Toyota FJ40 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Threads
2
Messages
15
Location
California
Hi all,
I am Henry and new to the forum and FJs in general. I recently acquired a 1970 FJ40, that I have been trying to buy from my mechanic for years and he wouldn’t sell it, he finally did. All these years he just had it in a storage area with the motor out. The way he got it, is the customer brought it to him to get some motor work done and ended up just signing over the pinkslip to him, that was years ago.

Anyhow, the FJ looks 95% straight and cancer free from my visual inspection, but it is still full of stuff that he needs to get out of it. I need advice on what is the best steps to take to restore it. I am thinking of doing a frame off, I will not do it myself as I do not have the knowledge, space or time to do it. I want to go as original as possible, without going too crazy, I understand it will not be a cheap process, I do want to save where possible, but without loosing the quality and value of the ride. It will be mostly a weekend city cruiser, no off roading, I got two wranglers for off roading and beating up.

Since the motor is out, thinking of towing it to a bodyshop, once I find one that is realiable and reasonable and have them take it apart and doing their job, while they are at it, I want to remove the trans, axles, etc to have that redone, does that make sense?

Since I want to get it to as original as possible both for looks, appreciation to the vehicle and value, would you please tell me what are the do-s and don’t that hurt it, for example: I can rebuild the original motor, I know they weren’t too powerful, but I am not going to race it; or I can put a 350 v8. What I believe is the original transmission, most likely 3 speed for that year, should I keep it or replace with 5 speed? Another thing, from all I see online, the 1970s had a three on the tree, this one has a floor shifter, not sure if it was ever converted or was it done like that since it came with a factory winch (which I want to keep)?

Lastly (for now :) ), the FJ has a gas tank under the seat and the original filling hole. Then there is another filler towards the back of the ride and a gas tank underneath. Did they come with two tanks or is it possible that the tank under the seat wasn’t big enough or had a problem and PO just decided to put another tank.

Due to how the FJ is parked at the moment, I have very limited access to get underneath or in to take closer look, that’s why the pictures are not very good either. Once I decide with where to start and what shop, I’ll be able to inspect it better and will be posting pics of the process (hopefully in the very near future)

Sorry for being so, I would really appreciate tips, I do have a billion more questions, but this post is long enough.
IMG_1670.JPG
IMG_1671.JPG
IMG_1672.JPG
IMG_1678.JPG
IMG_1679.JPG
 
I'd throw a F series motor in it, do a brake job, give it a bath and drive it. That cruiser is beautiful the way it sits..
 
Brings back memories of my first FJ40. Same color, same vintage, about the same condition.
I agree with Mace, that 40 has too much going for it to stray from stock. Very nice.
And before the PC police get you, it's a FJ40, 40,Cruiser or Landcruiser, but not an FJ.
Welcome aboard.
 
What a find
I wouldn't touch the paint it's perfect
I would look for an f motor and 4speed but your right it probably had a 3 from the dealer

You might could find a cruiser with a 2f,4 speed and disk brakes up front but with a rusted junk body and swap the goods to yours.

Your right these aren't speed demons but the Toyota motors seem to be perfect for what they are.

Could you pay the mechanic it's at to work on it... I would keep the pink slip though he might not want to give it up.

If you post up your location you might be near a good land cruiser shop that could fix up to a level you would be happy with. I learned quick most shops don't want to deal with fixing these as the money's in insurance body work and restorations have to many surprises. Most body shops hung up on me or told me it would sit for 6+ months before they could work on it. I found a welder on Craigslist to help me.
 
sweet!!! Looks like a survivor ... I'm a traditionalist, so if it were mine I'd bring it back to what it was/is, even the 3speed wouldn't bother me ... but to each their own ... looks like its been painted but what may be the original colour is on the door openings ... if it were mine I'd get it drivable, get to know it, enjoy it, before you make any long term project decisions ... the gas tank at the back is an auxiliary tank a previous owner put in ...
 
looks good the way it is ,have you thought about how much money this will cost you >
 
I'd throw a F series motor in it, do a brake job, give it a bath and drive it. That cruiser is beautiful the way it sits..

/this\
 
Very nice, keep her stock! BTW you can also refer to these rigs as 40's!!! Yes we have a thing about nomenclature here................ha! Welcome to the addiction!! They are also known as money pits.
 
I'd throw a F series motor in it, do a brake job, give it a bath and drive it. That cruiser is beautiful the way it sits..

Agree, they are only original once. Get some comet/ajax cleanser, (regular stuff, not the no scratch) a big sponge and scrub that thing.
 
Glad to hear it was not a "Barn find" gawd that term is SO overused and hokey.......like so many of the staged reality shows. I like that color I would take my time with it and rebuild the original drivetrain.
 
That body looks great! Keep her original and protect your investment!
 
Awesome 40! Very clean and original and very hard to find these days...

My 2 cents having just worked on a 1970 FJ40 and you have pretty much the same goal as me...keep it close to original.

The floor shifter is most likely done by the previous owner...the 1970 came with a 3 on the tree. That being said, most people would prefer the floor shift to the column shift. There are also much fewer linkages to worry about with the floor shift. Mine came with a floor shift as well...and I found a SOR rebuilt transmission when I investigated further. I'm willing to say your's has been similarly done. As for the 3 speed...its plenty. The low end gearing does what its intended to do...4WD and the 3 gear has a large range for highway driving. You're not going to go fast...about 55 mph on the highway all day.

If you have an original F motor, go for it! They can be rebuilt (I believe there have been issues with pistons with head curvature???), and having an original engine should help add value. Most people put in the V8s for performance and for modifications. Since you are looking at a weekend driver...I'd stay with the F motor!

The rear gas tank...aftermarket I'm sure. The 1970 has about an 18 gallon tank and I get about 250 miles, sometimes more, on a tank. People did put auxiliary tanks in to add for distance between fill ups and longer offroad travel. Don't know if this hurts value or not. Be sure to do a full check of the interior original gas tank...water can sit in the floor board under the tank and a lot of them develop rust holes.

If its an original factory PTO winch...KEEP IT! Those things are highly sought after and are a high dollar item! Plus its a cool winch set up!

I did a few upgrades to mine, and kept the original look. I installed the OME 2" lift...great ride, good offroad and doesn't look ridiculous with 30" tires. You also don't have to worry about pinon angles etc with that lift vs higher lifts. I also installed a rear auto locker. Besides the ratcheting around corners, you don't know its there. I also had memory foam padding put in the original seats...more expensive, but much more comfortable! One thing I didn't do was put in disk brakes...this would be a good upgrade and should actually help resale values. I haven't had any issues with 4 drums...they stop just fine (all new lines, cylinders, everything!), so don't think its something that you HAVE to do. It may also be wise to upgrade to the later 2 line master brake cylinder just in case of a line failure. Some people frown upon it, but I bedlined the floor. It adds protection, keeps it from rusting and easy to wash up.

Your paint does look fairly oxidized. I'd work on repainting the top...that looks the worst. As for the body...it kind of depends. If there is no body work that needs to be done, try and buff it out...see if you can get it to shine a bit. If you have to do body work...you might as well paint it all. I found a local shop that did mine piece by piece for 2 grand. Its not perfect but looks great!

As for the frame...the 1970 is pretty solid and doesn't have cracking problems of newer models. I blasted mine, rust converted it and frame coated it. Having it powder coated would be a way to go as well.

These rigs are pretty easy to work on. I had not idea what I was doing when I started and learned a lot along the way. You can save a ton of money doing things yourself. Here are the things I didn't do myself...rebuild steering box, paint (but I did do the body work) and upholstery. It does take time and space. Shop around for parts, and check out your local shops for work.

Best of luck to ya!
 
Thank you all for the welcome and for the responses, much apprecited.

Gusb - messing it up is the last thing I want to do, that's why I'm hoping by join this great community I'll be able to meet great people to learn from and get to know people that have the same interest.

Alabamatacomaguy - was looking into the 2f - but I think I want to keep as much of it as possible to what it originally came with, which most likely was the 1f. The 40 is still there, I'll go get some pics of the motor and post it here.

There is a thought of getting the motor rebuilt, paint or rhino line the motor compartment and have the motor installed. This way I can play and hopefully drive the 40 and see what's what. But since it's been sitting for so long, I'm pretty sure it needs more than that. From what I've learned the hard way from previous cars I had, doing stuff in the right order is crucial, where possible of course. If not done in the right order, it's pretty easy to have stuff done that will need to be redone again and it triples the costs, I'm trying to avoid that as much as possible.

Regarding the tank, before any of the major work will start, I'll have it checked more thoroughly and post some pics. If in fact it's an auxiliary tank, I will get it removed and close the extra filler hole and ofcourse, I hope the original tank is still good, if not, will try all I can to get it back to tip top shape or replace it. I don't want extra filler or any non stock holes if not necessary ;)

I'm located in the Los Angeles area and would appreciate if someone could recommend a shop (s) that can work on these so I can consult or get some quotes.

Thanks again for all the responses and looking forward to more .
 
I believe @65swb45 (Mark's Off Road) is in California somewhere, and he has an excellent reputation on the forum.
 
Thanks for the referral @AussieHJCruza . I'm not even sure how this works, but MUD sent me a notice somebody was talking about me!

Anyhow, to be brief, I work alone, and have been backed up for going on ten years now. The last thing I need is to do a job twice. At the end of an initial vehicle inspection, I prioritize a list of repairs and upgrades based on safety first and customer's intentions for the vehicle second. Steering and brakes come first...always. Because of limited space, I do not take vehicles until I am ready to work on them, so sometimes house calls fill the gap.;)

Check out the service link on my website: www.marksoffroad.net

If you call the shop and leave a message, I will call ou back on my mid-afternoon break.

Mark

P.S. Add me tothe chorus of those in favor of NOT repainting. I just finished my segment of an extensive resto-mod for a 66 that will have field time. Part of my job was to help the customer resist the urge to repaint. If you are new to off-roading and have ANY intention of using this rig for its intended purpose, do your pocketbook and your do-it-once motto both a favor and wait until you've got a year's worth of trail time BEFORE you paint. The price of an off-road education is often paid with paint and sheetmetal.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom