M416 Trailer build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter womacje
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
Jeremy, I was looking at my springs and axle last night. In spring over configuration it gives about 6" of lift over spring under. Top of spring eyes to top of axle is 9" and 3", over and under respectively.
I'm not sure I want to go with 6" of lift, so we'll have to see how bad the rubbage is on my trailer.
Is there an easy way to cross reference shocks by length? The ones I have are just off of a CJ, would Napa be able to look up shocks by length, or do they need a vehicle make/model?
-Ryan
I'm not sure I want to go with 6" of lift, so we'll have to see how bad the rubbage is on my trailer.
Is there an easy way to cross reference shocks by length? The ones I have are just off of a CJ, would Napa be able to look up shocks by length, or do they need a vehicle make/model?
-Ryan
- Thread starter
- #104
Yup. Napa can cross reference lengths for you. I'm not a fan of the spring over either. 6" is to much.
www.ExpeditionOps.com
www.ExpeditionOps.com
Great Build... Just wondering if you have or could make a vid of how you get the RTT back down to traveling height.
Cheers
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #106
Splittilps said:
I don't have one. If I remember later I'll throw one together. I just set it up for the Overland Rally in Asheville, NC, should be a great spot to shoot.
Thanks for the compliments. Going down isn't the easiest. For example, if it's just me, I need to use cam straps on either end to get it down, think see-saw. If I have 2 people it's pretty easy, just opposite corners and pull down after the tent has been flipped closed, more centralized weight.
www.ExpeditionOps.com
- Thread starter
- #107
I have a problem... My tires rub the inside of the fender with the 285/75's. I need more room between the fenders and the tire, but if I lift the trailer anymore I won't be able to swing open my 4x4labs bumper tire and gas can carriers unless the trailer is dead inline with the truck.
It looks like I'll have to cut the sliders off, over the wheels, and reposition the fenders all together.
I like the height the trailer is at as it sits, so that's ok with me. I just don't want to hack all that frame work... But I don't see any other options.
Any suggestions?
www.ExpeditionOps.com
It looks like I'll have to cut the sliders off, over the wheels, and reposition the fenders all together.
I like the height the trailer is at as it sits, so that's ok with me. I just don't want to hack all that frame work... But I don't see any other options.
Any suggestions?
www.ExpeditionOps.com
Wheel spacers.
I had the same problem with my BJ 74 . While articulating the back tires would rub .
I had the same problem with my BJ 74 . While articulating the back tires would rub .
- Thread starter
- #109
prado t said:
This might explain it better. Too little space...
Now I see.
Doesn't seem to be any easy solution...but how about lengthen the front and rear fender sections to allow more room...looks likes there's plenty of room over the tire, just the clearence front and back
- Thread starter
- #112
Thats what I was thinking too, Pat. Just don't want to take a saw to the tube work. Photogod is gonna kill me if I ruin all his nice cutting!
If you dont want your partner to hurt you , I would put a smaller tire on.
Well I am off for a 2 week "Expo " up to the Chilcotin, Towing the MBT . Leaving tommorrow in the early AM.
Hopefully you will come up with a solution by the time I get back.
Well I am off for a 2 week "Expo " up to the Chilcotin, Towing the MBT . Leaving tommorrow in the early AM.
Hopefully you will come up with a solution by the time I get back.
- Thread starter
- #114
prado t said:
Be safe and have a blast!
Any reason why you can't cut the top of the fenders, add a few inches there and take out a little of the sliders on the ends?
Will be almost the same amount of work and your angles can stay the same.
The only down side is you loose some length in the sliders, but gain in the top of the fender for counter top.
Curt
Will be almost the same amount of work and your angles can stay the same.
The only down side is you loose some length in the sliders, but gain in the top of the fender for counter top.
Curt
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"Going down isn't the easiest."
Funny, I have never heard of anyone complaining about your ability to go down!
Funny, I have never heard of anyone complaining about your ability to go down!
- Thread starter
- #117
Curt,
I'm kind of following you on this. I will cut out the angled pieces and move them to the fore and aft to allow the tire to stuff more. I think we are on the same track.
The height of the fender, as Pat pointed out, doesn't really need to change just the angle of the fenders front and rear. If not the angle of the fenders then the distance of the top edge of the "trapezoid".
- Thread starter
- #119
Mcmaster-Carr Part numbers and descriptions.
9416K542 2 Each Gas Spring With Threaded Ends, 29.33" Extended Length, 13.77" Stroke, 50 Force
9416K127 4 Each Gas Spring With Threaded Ends, 60 Force, 22.36" Extended Length, 9.84" Stroke
9416K543 2 Each Gas Spring With Threaded Ends, 29.33" Extended Length, 13.77" Stroke, 75 Force
I haven't made any progress on the trailer, due to the broken collarbone... nothing worse than sitting in the shop and not being able to work!
9416K542 2 Each Gas Spring With Threaded Ends, 29.33" Extended Length, 13.77" Stroke, 50 Force
9416K127 4 Each Gas Spring With Threaded Ends, 60 Force, 22.36" Extended Length, 9.84" Stroke
9416K543 2 Each Gas Spring With Threaded Ends, 29.33" Extended Length, 13.77" Stroke, 75 Force
I haven't made any progress on the trailer, due to the broken collarbone... nothing worse than sitting in the shop and not being able to work!
Thanks! So you have two struts in each tube? Any plans for a lowering device?
