M416 Trailer build (1 Viewer)

[womacje]

If you go back to the post showing the coupler, that is connecting 2 struts and that is done 4 times (2 struts per corner, with one coupler per corner)

I used slightly less weight than what is needed to fully push the rack up, making it easier to get the rack down.

I used 2 per corner to reach my extended length to keep cost down and not have custom gas struts made. If you are having them custom made, get them the compressed length desired and the extended length desired.

The weight of your rack with gear and tent, plus material of the rack, should be divided by 4 (i.e. 4 corners) that is the number you should aim for at your strut power.

Hope this helps. Let see some pics of what y'all are building!

Jeremy

 

[Medic83]

Well I tried the first set of struts and It wasnt giving the desired lift. They were also 150 lbs each. I just ordered 4- 75lb struts. Any less force and they dont come in a 33.94 extended length. So ill just have to hop on top if needed. Im installing some jeep grab handles to the sides of the rack for grabbing when stepping up and assisting in the pull down of the tent. I figured the pull down will b a two person job and Im ok with that.... unless i lay on top and put the pin in. LOL.

 

[womacje]

I figured the pull down will b a two person job and Im ok with that.... unless i lay on top and put the pin in. LOL.

Yup, sounds about right! Cam straps work great in a one person pinch.

Heres a great way to simply help with the rain and mud ingress issue in the top causing rust and binding. Seal Savers

 

[Super Slow Rodeo]

I'll throw this out for one way to solve your problem of lowering and raising the roof.

If you put on struts that are rated at more lift than your top weighs, you can use one of those cheap hand crank strap winches or 12 volt winches attached to the frame under the floor with 4 cables tied together and pullyed to the corners to lower the top. Just put a set of tension springs in the the 4 corner cables at the top, so you can preload the tensioin to the top. Then it just be a matter of knocking the legs off of their locks one at a time to get it started. and once all four corners are unlocked you can lower away with the winch until you get it down and latched.

The tension springs will allow you to keep tension on the top if you want of just use the latches to hold it down.

To raise it, depending on the anlge of your lift pistons, you can just unwind or hit the payout button on the winch and raise the top up until the support legs lock in place.

I suggest you put one spring, at least, in each corner at the top and tie the cable to the end of the spring, then though the spring with some slack to the other end of the spring anchor, as a limit strap and a safety in case the spring breaks or comes loose. This will allow you to see the spring stretch and stop your winching. And this will also allow you enough spring left to allow the support legs to unlock. Once unlocked just lower away and the liimit stap will keep the springs from getting overstretched.

Make sense?

Yea, I know! I live outside the box!!!!!

I did a simular set up on the vents on the top of my of my shop. I use a motorcycle tie down, in place of a winch, to lower and hold the pull cable down to close the vents and use springs at the tie down hook to hold tension on the vents to keep them from ratteling in high wind.

I have some small springs perfect for your application you can have if you'd like to try it.

 

[Splittilps]

I m in the middle of this right now, to deal with the rain and dirt issue I am putting some grease fittings in the outer tube and I am going to use an inner tube to cover the small tube when it is extended. Kinda the same at the seal saver / shock saver. It might look goofy when it is all bunched up when it lowered but it should work. Hopefully I will have it done in the next week or two.

Cheers

 

[Rubiconcruiser]

Jeremy, any possibility you can post a photo or two of the tilt sequence your trailer uses? Love the setup you use... Thanks.

 

[womacje]

Jeremy, any possibility you can post a photo or two of the tilt sequence your trailer uses? Love the setup you use... Thanks.

Rubicon,

Look back in this thread for the videos on YouTube. Or search YouTube for Expedition Ops rack lift M416. Theres no Tilt sequence buddy we're all linear, Baby!!!

If that not what you're referring to, please clarify, cuz I misunderstood.

 

[womacje]

I m in the middle of this right now, to deal with the rain and dirt issue I am putting some grease fittings in the outer tube and I am going to use an inner tube to cover the small tube when it is extended. Kinda the same at the seal saver / shock saver. It might look goofy when it is all bunched up when it lowered but it should work. Hopefully I will have it done in the next week or two.

Cheers

Split,

I just had a customer drive down from Saskatoon to have me build his Tacoma. Real nice guy. If you see a white 4dr Taco with an RTT on the back, that's my work, OME lift, 4xinnovation sliders, Eezi-Awn RTT, Expedition Ops Design low height bed rack(custom bed rack half height so the RTT sits at roof height when folded closed)

 

[Splittilps]

Thanks to womacje for this idea, and sending me the pop pins that I could not find in here is Canada. Here is a video of it in action.

Here is my trailer thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/303462-finally-i-found-m101-3.html#post7736162

Trailer :: Trailer-1.mp4 video by HDJ81_5 - Photobucket

Cheers

 

[womacje]

I love it. Looks Killer. The winch is the smart mans way to do it.

Jeremy

 

[womacje]

I just received this question in a PM and their inbox is full, thought I'd share here with the group.

I was wondering if you could tell me what pipe you used for the telescoping RTT platform. I'm having a hard time finding anything that isn't really sloppy.
Thanks

Below is an excerpt from the build thread. I used the drops section at my local metal yard to find a relatively close fit, there is still plenty of slop in the rack, but once all 4 verticals tubes are tied together, the slop is eliminated or a non-issue.

"#1 for the steel tube stock, I chose the outer DOM steel tube of 1.75" OD so I wouldn't have any binding on a welded seam. The inner tube, was trial and error till I found something that worked well. The center puck is made out of 3/16" thick steel, using a hole saw and drilling and tapping the holes to secure the gas struts to each other."

 

[ntsqd]

Can buy square telescoping tubes designed specifically to be telescoping from the bigger metal W/D's ("Telespar" is one brand name) and in limited sizes from McMaster.com