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So with your kit I don’t need to source an actual metal block off plate? Man I ordered your starter disconnect switch a few weeks back and wish I ordered the EGR kit at the same time. No worries though.The 'Test kit' plug will disable the EGR. The BB's are there to prevent the risk of a vacuum leak, just in case something around there is awry. Like @baldilocks said, if the EGR was stuck open, the idle would be all wonky. Simply disabling the EGR gets rid of the majority of the heat near the harness, the rest is likely heat soak travelling through all the metal in the area. If I remember right, although I should probably re-read the FSM, the exhaust does not get past the EGR (like the drawing in post#4) and up to the modulator unless the EGR opens. That opening is based on a variety of things, engine load, coolent temp, speed, etc. My kit stops it from opening. And yeah....don't overthink this.
correctSo with your kit I don’t need to source an actual metal block off plate? Man I ordered your starter disconnect switch a few weeks back and wish I ordered the EGR kit at the same time. No worries though.
In this Post he said "The plug I build gives the ECU the signal it needs to avoid a CEL by simulating the temp sensor. You have to block/plug the vacuum lines in order to prevent the vacuum from opening the EGR valve. Its a pretty simple installation, but there is more info in these threads if you want to get into the minutia of it."So with your kit I don’t need to source an actual metal block off plate? Man I ordered your starter disconnect switch a few weeks back and wish I ordered the EGR kit at the same time. No worries though.