Cookie Cutter 5.3 Swap Into 62 (1 Viewer)

[dbbowen]

Got exhaust parts ordered and trying to get the little things done so that I can wrap this up.

Got water pump outlet hose made up with two pieces of hose and a barb fitting.
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Fits great underneath my intake piping.
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Once that was finally done I filled the cooling system as best I could with the rear heater in-op. Adding that to the list.

And needed to turn the truck around in the garage so that I could get the passenger door open more than 10” to finish up the aux fuse panel. Copied @BurntToast idea with the relay and fuse panel, and added relays for ac and the three cruise control switches. Took that excuse to drive around the block. Loudly.
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Going to need to move the fuse panel over since the way it is I can’t get the cover off when it is installed. Should have test fit that one.

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To-do list:
-Build exhaust
-dry transfer decals on combo switch
-figure out wiring for Corolla cc on/off switch
-Pull vacuum on ac system
-wire C2 43 as negative trigger for ac compressor relay
-wire binary switch into ac system
-re-align dash vents
-finish up battery wiring
-bolt test
-top off transmission and PS
-fix rear heater
-cut rear heater switch into center console
-figure out mounting for center console on top of rear heater
-seal and paint drip rails
-mount windshield washer reservoir
-mount front facing camera
-aim headlights
-schedule tuner appointment

Trucking along. how the hell did you flip the truck around in the garage??

 

[Dubs2017]

Trucking along. how the hell did you flip the truck around in the garage??

Haha with the transmission! Took it for a low speed spin around the block. Ya know, to get the rust off the rotors…

 

[Dubs2017]

Dash mostly back together. Got the Corolla cruiser control on/off switch wired up and in the dash. Probably going to move it to the left most spot. Trying out the 80 locker switch in the panel from @ChaserFJ60 to remind me to continue saving for the lockers. Stuck the scangauge in the ashtray slot with some tape for now. Seems not ideal for looking at it while driving, but can't find a better spot for it. Gotta get the combo switch decals done so I can finish wiring the cruise control.

Installed a binary switch interrupting the AC compressor ground, and pulled vacuum. So far so good.

Saw is almost ready for the exhaust project. Ordered a Lenox blade to go with my cheap equipment.

 

[Jdog]

Looks awesome!

 

[dbbowen]

The Lenox blade will make that HF saw cut like a 2,500 saw. Interior looking awesome

 

[Dubs2017]

The Lenox blade will make that HF saw cut like a 2,500 saw. Interior looking awesome

Thanks again for the tip!

 

[Dubs2017]

Got the combo switch mostly finished. After chatting with @dbbowen about the cruise control, I found the correct Toyota stalk to make it all work. Bonus is that it also has the variable speed wiper relays built in.

@63FST was very helpful with getting the dry transfer decals correct. Slightly tedious, but with the right prep came out better than expected. I used the flat finish clear coat, and might need to spray some semi gloss on them at some point in the future. The flat doesn’t really match the rest of the interior, but might grow on me I guess.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Got the combo switch mostly finished. After chatting with @dbbowen about the cruise control, I found the correct Toyota stalk to make it all work. Bonus is that it also has the variable speed wiper relays built in.

@63FST was very helpful with getting the dry transfer decals correct. Slightly tedious, but with the right prep came out better than expected. I used the flat finish clear coat, and might need to spray some semi gloss on them at some point in the future. The flat doesn’t really match the rest of the interior, but might grow on me I guess.

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That looks really nice.

 

[63FST]

Having knowledge of how much work it actually takes to get to this point...I seriously commend you!

Contact me anytime if you need anything or need to chat.....bravo!

-Mo

 

[BMValentine]

Got the combo switch mostly finished. After chatting with @dbbowen about the cruise control, I found the correct Toyota stalk to make it all work. Bonus is that it also has the variable speed wiper relays built in.

@63FST was very helpful with getting the dry transfer decals correct. Slightly tedious, but with the right prep came out better than expected. I used the flat finish clear coat, and might need to spray some semi gloss on them at some point in the future. The flat doesn’t really match the rest of the interior, but might grow on me I guess.

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Do you have part numbers for the stalk that you used, with the variable wiper speeds?

 

[Dubs2017]

Do you have part numbers for the stalk that you used, with the variable wiper speeds?

@dbbowen did the heavy lifting on figuring this out, but this is the description on my invoice from Toyauto Mart. I found this combo switch on car-part and called them for detailed pictures.

This is also a good thread regarding this swap.

 

[dbbowen]

Do you have part numbers for the stalk that you used, with the variable wiper speeds?

if you only want the variable speed and no cruise you definitely want an 87-89 or so firstgen 4runner, second gen pickup combo switch. The earlier ones are way more work to get to work

 

[Dubs2017]

Making some headway on exhaust. Like with the fan shroud, I will not be winning the 'nicest looking welds' award.

Stainlessbros box of goodies.

 

[Dubs2017]

Redirected the 4wd vacuum lines to give me more room for exhaust.

This is how much room they take up normally...

Redirected with a few fittings.

 

[BurntToast]

Redirected the 4wd vacuum lines to give me more room for exhaust.

This is how much room they take up normally...
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Redirected with a few fittings.
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For the rest of us a few months behind what’s the fitting size for reference?

 

[Dubs2017]

For the rest of us a few months behind what’s the fitting size for reference?

Good call. The threads are M10x1.25 and the hose is 4mm id.

I would have liked to find a 90 that would work, but ended up piecing together 3 parts. A male m10x1.25 to female m10x1 adapter, then a 90 and a hose Barb.

 

[BurntToast]

Good call. The threads are M10x1.25 and the hose is 4mm id.

I would have liked to find a 90 that would work, but ended up piecing together 3 parts. A male m10x1.25 to female m10x1 adapter, then a 90 and a hose Barb.

Much appreciated!

 

[cruisermatt]

That looks nice but if you do the exhaust like this there’s no need to worry about any of the fluid/vac lines around there.

Way better for heat management as well as you aren’t going between the t-case/floor.

Edit, just looked back and see you already built it all. Whoops

 

[Dubs2017]

That looks nice but if you do the exhaust like this there’s no need to worry about any of the fluid/vac lines around there.

Way better for heat management as well as you aren’t going between the t-case/floor.

Edit, just looked back and see you already built it all. Whoops

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Thanks Matt. Always good to have options. Any thoughts on the tail pipe routing? I still have to build that section. These are the two routes I am considering.

 

[Dubs2017]

Still working on the the tail pipe. Got distracted by a transmission problem which I just got resolved.

After getting the exhaust completed to the muffler I took it for a test drive. It would not shift out of 3rd gear, and I was getting a PO758 code with the CEL. This is the "Shift Solenoid B Electrical/2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical" code. Since I replaced the pan with the Novak notched pan, I figured I bumped the solenoid or plug lose when I installed the pan.

So, drained the ATF and pulled the pan to replace all the solenoids in the 4l60e (PNs: 24230298 (2 of these, 1-2 and 3-4 shifts), 24212327 (3-2 shifts), and 24227792 (Torque Converter Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Solenoid). While I was in there may as well do all 4.

Also noticed that my dip sticks "hot & full" reading was about 3/4" below the pan mating surface. This didn't seem right either. Did some googling and found this video which states the "hot & full" should be at the mating surface or up to 1/4" above it. Adjusted my dipstick as well as I could, but I think the guys who sold me the transmission gave me a different dip stick and tube than what came with the transmission, since I couldn't get the mounting tab to line up with the bell housing bolt with the tube and dipstick in the correct location. I ordered a new tube and filler tube seal and will swap them in when I have time. In the meantime, I got the tube to where I could get a reading and buttoned everything back up.

Fired the truck up and immediately got the same code. s***e.

Found a few threads on lt1swap discussing similar issues and the pinouts of the 4l60 plug, so pulled the harness to verify that PSI got everything in the right spots. Luckily my meter's probes aren't narrow enough to get into the female side of the transmission plug, so pulled the back off to test continuity from there.

And found THIS! (that pink wire wasn't seated into the plug...)

For reference, here is the pinout of the 4l60e plug. That pink wire is position E, so basically the transmission wasn't getting power.

Got the pink wire back into the harness, plugged everything in, and good to go. Now, onto the rest of the exhaust and a few other little things. Ugh. Not the best tangent I've been on, but glad it was just a simple issue.