It's my understanding that LS's like 58 PSI. Any chance your fuel pump is going? Or sock might be clogged?
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that fuel pressure is ok. Once you get it to smooth out and make good intake vacuum it will probably jump up to 50ish psi.
Make sure that vacuum hose from the FPR to the intake is in good shape btw. Very commonly overlooked critical part.
In fact, you can run a external vacuum source to it to test it.
Also worth while to take the FPR apart and make sure there isn’t junk in there holding it open. But again it should run decently on 40psi
I would start with injectors. See if you can find a friend with a good running GM truck to borrow them from.
I can get you my injector guy’s info if that ends up being it.
Make sure that vacuum hose from the FPR to the intake is in good shape btw. Very commonly overlooked critical part.
In fact, you can run a external vacuum source to it to test it.
Also worth while to take the FPR apart and make sure there isn’t junk in there holding it open. But again it should run decently on 40psi
I would start with injectors. See if you can find a friend with a good running GM truck to borrow them from.
I can get you my injector guy’s info if that ends up being it.
- Thread starter
- #103
Thanks Matt. That’s helpful. I’ve got a can of carb cleaner on the shelf, so I’ll pull the injectors and clean/test them. Good call on the fpr. I’ll give that a test as well.
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You won't be able to do much with the injectors without an actual injector machine.
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- #105
Was thinking of doing something like this.
Might order this thing up as well if it might work better.
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- #106
Sent my injectors off to Matt’s guy. While waiting for their return I am working on wiring. Have most of the 3FE EFI wiring removed or terminated. Trying to decide if I should leave the yellow EFI fusible link and large main relay power wires (red) in the truck or not.
Let me know if anyone needs any connectors. Where possible I pulled the entire section of wiring.
Let me know if anyone needs any connectors. Where possible I pulled the entire section of wiring.
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- #107
The list is getting shorter. Got the wiring cleaned up, hvac re-foamed and assembled, and dash back on.
Also got intake pieced together, and swapped my water pump out with a Gen IV truck pump, which redirects the water outlet pipe towards the passenger side. Should have done this as PM before I put the motor in, but here we are. This version is much better for hose routing since I kept the mechanical fan. Waiting on a 1.25” hose barb to connect a 90 degree piece to my upper hose (you can see in last pic). Should be able to get coolant filled when that and a t-stat arrives.
Also pulled the intake manifold off for a cleaning while I was waiting for the injectors. Pretty nasty under there. New knock sensors, harness, and manifold gasket.
Also got intake pieced together, and swapped my water pump out with a Gen IV truck pump, which redirects the water outlet pipe towards the passenger side. Should have done this as PM before I put the motor in, but here we are. This version is much better for hose routing since I kept the mechanical fan. Waiting on a 1.25” hose barb to connect a 90 degree piece to my upper hose (you can see in last pic). Should be able to get coolant filled when that and a t-stat arrives.
Also pulled the intake manifold off for a cleaning while I was waiting for the injectors. Pretty nasty under there. New knock sensors, harness, and manifold gasket.
- Thread starter
- #108
Need to get the rear heater back in place, finish the refurb of the combo switch stalks, wire in the aux fuse panel (@BurntToast I think I am going to blatantly copy your very slick setup, as it seems you know what you're doing with electrical). Also need to find a place to mount the relays for the cruise control switches.
Fuel injector guy's info is in pic. Quick turnaround, and very competitively priced.
Here is the difference between the two water pumps. Gen III (in hand) vs Gen IV. Both "truck" pumps.
Fuel injector guy's info is in pic. Quick turnaround, and very competitively priced.
Here is the difference between the two water pumps. Gen III (in hand) vs Gen IV. Both "truck" pumps.
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hopefully the injectors fix your issue. And yes Eric is great
The only thing mine doesn’t have is local relays. I would have considered maybe a bussman panel if I needed that. Otherwise I think it should work fine!
Awesome work!!
I am planning very similar intake design. How did you deal with the PCV hose?
- Thread starter
- #113
Cool. No issue on the 5.3 vortec pcv. The DS hose goes to the top of the intake, and the PS hose goes into the side of the throttle body. I did some research about this, and looks like many people update these systems with a catch can.
Where does your pcv route on your 6.2?
I’ve got a 3/8 hose that needs to get to intake. I’ve got this as an option to drill hole in one of the tubes/elbow but not sure if it’s best route.
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- #115
Is there an unused port on the manifold that you can tap into? The vortec manifold has a few, so yours might. I had to tap into mine for the 4wd solenoids on my 62.
When we did the LS6 intake we had to put one of the hoses right into the intake. I welded a bung onto the intake tube itself. You could easily drill/tap one or similar
- Thread starter
- #118
Got exhaust parts ordered and trying to get the little things done so that I can wrap this up.
Got water pump outlet hose made up with two pieces of hose and a barb fitting.
Fits great underneath my intake piping.
Once that was finally done I filled the cooling system as best I could with the rear heater in-op. Adding that to the list.
And needed to turn the truck around in the garage so that I could get the passenger door open more than 10” to finish up the aux fuse panel. Copied @BurntToast idea with the relay and fuse panel, and added relays for ac and the three cruise control switches. Took that excuse to drive around the block. Loudly.
Going to need to move the fuse panel over since the way it is I can’t get the cover off when it is installed. Should have test fit that one.
To-do list:
-Build exhaust
-dry transfer decals on combo switch
-figure out wiring for Corolla cc on/off switch
-Pull vacuum on ac system
-wire C2 43 as negative trigger for ac compressor relay
-wire binary switch into ac system
-re-align dash vents
-finish up battery wiring
-bolt test
-top off transmission and PS
-fix rear heater
-cut rear heater switch into center console
-figure out mounting for center console on top of rear heater
-seal and paint drip rails
-mount windshield washer reservoir
-mount front facing camera
-aim headlights
-schedule tuner appointment
Got water pump outlet hose made up with two pieces of hose and a barb fitting.
Fits great underneath my intake piping.
Once that was finally done I filled the cooling system as best I could with the rear heater in-op. Adding that to the list.
And needed to turn the truck around in the garage so that I could get the passenger door open more than 10” to finish up the aux fuse panel. Copied @BurntToast idea with the relay and fuse panel, and added relays for ac and the three cruise control switches. Took that excuse to drive around the block. Loudly.
Going to need to move the fuse panel over since the way it is I can’t get the cover off when it is installed. Should have test fit that one.
To-do list:
-Build exhaust
-dry transfer decals on combo switch
-figure out wiring for Corolla cc on/off switch
-Pull vacuum on ac system
-wire C2 43 as negative trigger for ac compressor relay
-wire binary switch into ac system
-re-align dash vents
-finish up battery wiring
-bolt test
-top off transmission and PS
-fix rear heater
-cut rear heater switch into center console
-figure out mounting for center console on top of rear heater
-seal and paint drip rails
-mount windshield washer reservoir
-mount front facing camera
-aim headlights
-schedule tuner appointment
Looks excellent! i had to grind that cover a bit too to get mine to fit
- Thread starter
- #120
Thanks, and good to know. Getting tight in there with the relays, so I might leave it for a winter project.
