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Cable Lock Diff

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by landtoy80, Apr 25, 2003.

  1. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    I called Downey to get the cable lock for the OEM diff. lock actuator assembly I destroyed. Every time I called they said a month or so from production. THis time they said Friday (4/24) they will be done building them. I ordered it. If a month or so takes about a year, how long will 3 days take? I ordered the kit without the axle. I have lockers, the axle is for if you are adding the diff lock to your diff. I ordered the long cable about 13' so it should install left of steering wheel in the knock out hole there, I hope! It cost $129 vs $600+ for actuator from dealer. It will be nice to be able to pull the cable and not wait for the electric one to lock and unlock. The cable screws on the shaft that locks so if the cable is out it is locked and vise versa. I don't know if I still can use the light to tell if it is locked/unlocked, but I realy dont need it as my knee will hit the cable handle if it is out when I exit the cab.
    kurt
     
  2. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Kurt,
    We could use a full detailed write up with pics when you're done. If we all share our contributions to this forum then we will have a 1-stop shopping location.
    -B-
     
  3. Junk

    Junk

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    Land - The Downey has been discussed and dissed pretty heavily on the LCML list for several months. I hope you have a good experience with it, but please just keep this in mind. I'm holding off on my cable set up till I get the portals all figured out. So far the control arms are no sweat and the panhards no biggie. Steering and a few other issues yet :dunno:.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
     
  4. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    I don't have a digital camera but I see I can get my film put on a CD. I need to keep better records of my repairs. I got a e-mail about my 60 the other day but I couldn't remember the fix for the problem. I did a search on the LCML and found my fix and jarred my bad memory. I started a disk on the 60 but didn't keep up. I do keep great records on what I did, just not on how I did it.
    kurt
     
  5. Wrench

    Wrench One Bashed Up 80

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    Will these work like the Ox lockers do?
     
  6. sleeoffroad

    sleeoffroad Supporting Vendor

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    I can not see why the cable will lock it faster than the ellectric motor. If the gears are not lined up, then the locker does not lock, does not matter what is pushing the shift fork. The rear gears have 6-7 big notches that looks like a castle nut. So imagine two of them face to face. They have to rotate until they can slip together and lock. The front uses small splines. That is why it locks faster.

    That said, I think the cable actuator is a good idea, especially where 80 series axles are being used in other applications, or retrofitting the lockers to a 80.
     
  7. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    I agree with Christo. There should be no reason why the cable lockers should work better or faster than electrics. I would be very surprised if the Downey product come complete, with instructions, or without fittage problems. I have worked on their EFI kit and would never buy one of the products that they developed.

    The electrics seem to have a lot less problems when you use them on a regular basis. :D I have to think the cables would be worse if you don't use them for a number of months.
     
  8. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    When you pull the cable and it doesn't lock just move a bit and you should feel it lock in. As it is a direct connect to the fork versus the spring on the electric motor.
    I would rather go with the Toyota cable lock set up but don't know where to get it. I was told you can lock the Toyota cable lock on the fly. I would assume I could do it with the downey cable as long as you arn't spinning the wheel.
    Had Toyota sold the housing for the electric locker I would of got it. For the $ of an actuator I can get a used diff assembly. $ is what makes the Downey kit the best, if it works :-/
    kurt
     
  9. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Christo,
    Can you import the Toyota cable lock parts? That is if it will work in the 80 diff.
    kurt
     
  10. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Downey sent out the cable diff lock on 5/28. Its a good thing I didn't bid in the electric one on Ebay, then I would have 2.
    kurt
     
  11. theferg

    theferg

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    That's some good news Kurt! :G I am very interested in the cable assembly still. Please, please, please can you get some good pics of it before you install it? Some good closeups of the different parts. Are they still using the "T-Handle" to engage it, or do you know yet? I will be very interested to hear you before and after thoughts on it. Write up indeed!! :G
     
  12. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    I don't have scanner or digital camera. I will use camera and try ti find a scanner.
    kurt
     
  13. Chris_Geiger

    Chris_Geiger

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    I had wondered why the front allways seemed to lock up faster then the rear. Both motors in my truck are in good shape. When I pulled out the thirds to install the 4.88 gears it became clear why I had to move the truck to get the rear to lock. Here is a photo of the rear lock teeth. Like Christo said there is just a few large teeth and they need to be right on before it's going to lock.
     
  14. Chris_Geiger

    Chris_Geiger

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    Here is the front fine theeth....

    As long as the motors are working correctly I don't see any advantage to switching to cables. The diff is not going to lock till the gears are ligned up and that will sometimes take moving the rig some.
     
  15. theferg

    theferg

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    I agree, if I had them already setup and working properly electrically in any rig, I would see no reason to change to cable--except maybe that "being different" factor...Like having factory toyota lockers in an FJ60...

    Kurt already stated his opinion on the advantage:  $$$.  His actuator is hosed and it's cheaper for the cable setup than to buy a new actuator.

    The advantage in my position is that I'm setting them up in my FJ60.  And it sounds easier and cheaper to go cable for me as well.
     
  16. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Here is a better picture of the alignment teeth in the rear.

    [​IMG]

    (Disregard the arrows and numbers on the 2nd photo...)

    -B-
     
  17. theferg

    theferg

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    Hey, those are my arrows and numbers.... :slap:
     
  18. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Ferg,

      You are not doing a very good job of disregarding them now, are you? 8)

       I seem to recall that the Wulf said he was going to pinch that pic for future uses........... :dunno:


    Oh, check yer PM's
     
  19. theferg

    theferg

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    Sorry, I'll try harder... :slap: :slap:

    And Beo, if you want it without the extra artwork, let me know... I've even got pics of Toy Cable Lock diffs :G :eek: :G :eek:

    Roger that Dan, thanks for the info... ;)
     
  20. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Ben,
    Yep, I snatched it. The subject of rear lockers comes up 1x month and it helps people visualize what's happening during the locking process. If you will post that in this thread w/o the arrows then I'll grab the new one and remove the post above.

    Chris,
    I grabbed your front diff locker image. Is it OK if I use it when the subject comes up again?

    I'd be happy to give Ben and Chris photo credit if I can remember.... :bow:

    -B-