Cable Lock Diff (1 Viewer)

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I got the shaft.

$12 for a SS shaft. Now I need to get a extra seal for it and then install.
kurt

I will take pic of everything.
Posting to this board will be the hardest part of the whole project :-[

kurt
 
Got the cable lock in. The aluminum block fit like a glove. Had I not lost or used the bolt for the shaft, it would of went alot faster. I had to drill and tap as the bolt is a odd ball size/pitch and no one had the bolt.
I mounted the cable in the hole left of the steering wheel but I will have to find a stronger place mount it. The dash is too flexable.
I see now why it takes so long for the electric acuator to lock the diff. You need to be moving to get the splines to line up. You then need to push the cable in to get it to lock. Unlocking is the same, you need to pull the cable and drive till pressure is released from the diff.
I only drove and tested in the driveway for a couple of minutes and had to go to work. The wife took the 80 on a road trip this weekend, I hope its not leaking :-[
 
I ran a bolt and nut keep the locker from locking on its own. This was after I broke the acuator.
 
After a weekend of the wife driving acrost the state. The seal doesn't leak. It shifts a bit better when I tested it tonight. I need to move the T handle as it goes right into the wife knee :(
kurt
 
Kurt, Any chance you wanna part with this part? I am still in need of one and I don't *really* want to buy one new (even through my buddy C-Dan, it's quite a lot of $$$). It looks like it is just filling up that special hole there... I was thinking there might be an NPT plug or something that could take it's place... Let me know man.
 
Ben that switch lets me know when the diff is locked. Without it I won't know if it is locked. Are you doing a cable lock or electric or repair?
kurt
 
I wasn't sure if you were still usin' it or not... But, ya, I am installing 80 series e-lock diffs into my 60 and I got a used e-lock third that showed up that the switch and the plate that it screws into were missing. I got the plate from C-Dan, but the switch is $$ and I am trying to find a good used one.

As to cable or electric, I have decided to go electric with them for now. I don't like Downey's t-handle design very much (that's just my opinion of course...). If I go cable, it will most likely be of my own design...
 
In the pic's I have of the Downey Locker, the block sits kinda low and I worry about bumping it on a rock. Could I weld a plate to the axle assembly to protect the block? Any problems welding the lower hump part of the assembly. Not the diff carrier.
kurt
 
Welding on the axle housing is fine--you just don't want to get it too hot, it might warp the housing. Though I haven't welded on mine yet, I have been told that you should just do mutliple short welds. Approximately one inch or so long each. That way you don't get that sucker heatin' up too hot.
 
I looked at the front diff actuator and I don't think that the Downey cable lock kit that I have will fit the front diff. The actuator and bolt pattern is different.

If I can get my actuator welded and make a new rod for it, I will put it back on and get the Skid plate for the actuator.
 
I tested the Downey Cable Lock in the snow covered driveway and it lockes in a lot faster. Even after not using it for about 3 months and the temp is well below freezing.
I am starting to like the cable locker more as time goes on.
Locking the rear in H range is cool 8)
 
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=1650;start=msg75517#msg75517 date=1071375466]
Locking the rear in H range is cool 8)
[/quote]

I can do that too, as well as anyone else with the CDACDM. That stands for Cruiser Dan's Amazing Center Differential Modification. :D
 
I didn't know that was a byproduct of the CDACDM.
I thought it changed how the tranny shifted in L.
You can lock the front and rear diff without the centerdiff locked in H?
 
No, you still have to have the center diff locked to lock the f and r. The mod allows you to shift into low without the center diff locking if you so desire. To quote CDAN "you now have true manual control over center diff locking. It only locks when you tell it to without regard to transfer range selection."
 

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