Builds Big Red Toy (5 Viewers)

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I don't see why it would. It doesn't add HP just helps fueling and boost. I can hit 25-30 instantly in 4th gear.
 
I don't see why it would. It doesn't add HP just helps fueling and boost. I can hit 25-30 instantly in 4th gear.
With the new settings I can't get over 14psi immediately. Will keep tinkering and also adjusting the methanol pump actuator.
 
With the new settings I can't get over 14psi immediately. Will keep tinkering and also adjusting the methanol pump actuator.
I never was able to to get over 15-18 before and that was never immediate. When I installed the AFC spring I put everything to normal specs as the directions said and it worked great. I lucked out I guess and didn't have to fiddle with the star wheel, smoke screw, or boost thingy. For once I put something together and it just worked so I don't want to mess with it.
 
I need your expert opinions. I'm beginning to save up for lockers and I'm trying to decide if I should go ahead and get chromoly front axles while I'm at it. Since I'm running spacers in the front, that would make my spacers the weak point right? Risking the possibility of losing a tire/wheel instead of just breaking an axle? Or am I being too OCD?
 
i don't think the spacers will be the weak link. Are you saving for ARB's?
 
Don't worry about the spacers.

Locker, stock shafts, 37's, and 4BT?
Drive carefully or decide on on a weak-link and engineer that weak link to make it easy to fix, then carry a ton of spares of said link.
 
i don't think the spacers will be the weak link. Are you saving for ARB's?

Don't worry about the spacers.

Locker, stock shafts, 37's, and 4BT?
Drive carefully or decide on on a weak-link and engineer that weak link to make it easy to fix, then carry a ton of spares of said link.

If I go Chromoly and they have the free hub upgrades, what would be left to be the weak link? I'm thinking ARBs or Harrop Eatons from Reevesci.
 
Your wallet is the next weak link :)
 
Your wallet is the next weak link :)
I'm learning real fast that spending what I don't have is the American Way. But yeah it's not gonna be anytime too soon, many other priorities around the house.
 
It's not my place to theorize what will break first- I'm not experienced enough for that. But what I will say is would you rather be swapping out a front axle (~1.5 to 2 hours) or a pinion (many more hours).
 
It's not my place to theorize what will break first- I'm not experienced enough for that. But what I will say is would you rather be swapping out a front axle (~1.5 to 2 hours) or a pinion (many more hours).

Understood and I appreciate the input. My concern is more for safety than man hours. If a spacer breaks then the tire comes off, not a good scenario with a rig that high. If an axle breaks, the tires are still on, I just lose power to them.
 
If your in there you might as well run chromoly front shafts. l would focus on the front first since it is a job just getting those suckers out. You could swap your rear shafts out in no time since it is FF.

IMO bigger tires+front locker= broken axle shaft. Well at least that happened to me, but who knows it could have been luck of the draw haha. They are a piece of mind none the less.
 
That kit looks good for the price. The 4bt I think is slightly lighter than the 3fe. The tires are unsprung weight so not sure how much is affecting the axles. But you are right that is a weak point.
 
decide on on a weak-link and engineer that weak link to make it easy to fix, then carry a ton of spares of said link.

I've tried this countless times over the years with varying setups, and I tell you what, it never works. For example, I "engineered" a weak link of my driveshafts, making them out of "puny" 1310 joints. Broke two different, supposedly "chromoly" or "beefy" parts.

It simply doesn't work IMHO. Build the whole truck strong and bring spares of any driveline components (within reason) that, should they break, will prevent you from getting home.

That kit looks good for the price. The 4bt I think is slightly lighter than the 3fe

The 3FE is ~700# wet based on the numbers I've seen, maybe 750#, and the 4BT is somewhere around 800#. They're comparable, but the 4BT is a bit heaver I believe.

Remember, even that the 4BT is a 4 cylinder instead of a 6 cylinder, the displacement is damn close (3.9l 4bt vs 4.0l 3fe)
 
So here's my issue Johnny. I can't get rid of the spacers because that's the only way the wheels will clear the caliper. If i build it with chromoly axles, chomoly hubs and lockers wouldn't that make the spacers the logical weak link? though i've never heard nor seen a spacer break, something like that could be catastrophic and deadly.
 
If you are worried about breaking a wheel spacer, you probably need to reassess your driving.

How high are you jumping that thing?!
 
Mike, I've run them for years without issue. 1/4" to 3".. I used to run rear fatties on my welding trucks and spaced them with 3". 6BT with 175HP add-on chip, carrying 5000#s of welding gear, and pulling a 5th wheel all over this country and Canada...

However, they do break. Here is a pic of one off a Dodge, sounded like improper use and install.

IMO, if installed properly and torqued to the mfg spec and regular maintenance..... NO WORRIES.

J

cheap_spacers2-large.jpg
 

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