So what’s the solution? You can’t wrap it since it will kill the Bluetooth function and you can’t put it through the firewall since it’s too big? And keeping it plugged in apparently the unit melts? What gives?
A new batch of OBD1READ - OBD1 scan tool for FZJ80 93-94 (5 Viewers)
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Interesting. Had no idea it was a universal OBD1 unit.
My future plan is to only use it for trips and upplug it and store it when not needed. A few days in the hot engine bay hopefully will not damage the doggle. I believe the new batch (V2.0) will not have the means to read error codes (check engine).
Sideways question here. I am currently writing firmware to read the data, but noticed that the check engine light blinks when its sending data(TE2 shorted to E1). I have not ran it very long like this, but read that this product does the same.
So does the check engine light blink for a bit right after starting?
So does the check engine light blink for a bit right after starting?
Goggle is your friend....
MUD folks stumbbled on this item and shared it with the rest of us. Again-was never meant for 80s. Was for OBD1 vechicle.
I liked the fact that it gives you error codes rather than having to do the paper clip hack to get it but you can't clear the error code like OBD2.
Im just guessing but the blinking could be the code(s) to let you know what error it is......401, 24, 26, 31....ect. The blinking is what you see if you "paper clip" hack to read the check engine code.
I dont have a check engine so no flashing of engine light.
Cut the plug off, and extend it with a generic obd1 lead for >$20 from your Chinese reselker of choice. Amazon, eBay, ali-express etc
Also see post #21
It's not entirely universal.
It has pre-loaded engine/trans configurations for various Toyota models.
Does not have a configuration for 1fz-fe/5 speed landcruiser.
For my rig, it still gives the critical/useful data, but the ap is not fully functional because my configuration isn't there
I think it's most useful as a trouble shooting tool, or monitoring tuning short term.
I have an engine watch dog to monitor engine temps separately. To my mind, this is the primary, mission critical thing an obd reader helps with anyway. The rest of the time, the other data is mostly just superfluous
I have an engine watch dog to monitor engine temps separately. To my mind, this is the primary, mission critical thing an obd reader helps with anyway. The rest of the time, the other data is mostly just superfluous
Correct, no codes so blinking and running through the self check procedure. I don't have stored codes either.
I am curious if this exhibits the same thing, as this is the only way I can find to pull the serial data out of the ecu. Would be super annoying if it is the case as you would be driving while the light is blinking as long as the device is plugged in.
To add to the above statement:
My ETC reading off the TOYOBD1 is 9-10 degrees higher than my DIY Coolant reading where I tap into the input Radiator hose. And also it was great for reading codes when I had EGR problems. Other than that its a double edge sword, it will lead you to have OCD.
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What exactly are you using as an engine watch dog?
By install a temp sensor into your radiator hose:
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To be honest I did not recall my check engine light to be blinking while driving with the TOYOBD1 when I had EGR error.
Before I solved my EGR the check engine would intermittently turn on/off. W/out the Toyobd1 I would not know what was causing it unless I paper clip hack it.
No blinking on start up.
Thanks! I'll dig deeper to figure it how it's done without the blinking.
@efjayatee nailed it.
There's models that allow you to monitor several inputs
Mine takes a temperature from a probe under a bolt on the head.
It doesn't necessarily read 100% accurate coolant temp, but it provides a normal baseline parallel with coolant temp, and alerts you to a change
The main reason I was using mine was to watch Eng temps in real time.
Then I just ended up adding a temp gauge as it won’t melt down.
If you add the sensor to the upper radiator hose you’ll be reading the coolant at its hottest point coming right out of the head
And the reading will be hotter the then the OBD1 reading because it’s getting its information from the factory sensor and a different spot.
Then I just ended up adding a temp gauge as it won’t melt down.
If you add the sensor to the upper radiator hose you’ll be reading the coolant at its hottest point coming right out of the head
And the reading will be hotter the then the OBD1 reading because it’s getting its information from the factory sensor and a different spot.
