74 fj40 Advice on p brake backing plate - sheared bolts! (1 Viewer)

[dazerb]

I pulled the p brake drum and found 2 of 4 bolts have been sheared off and a 3rd seems too long.
I have my brake kit, rear tcase seal AND speedo sleeve ready to go...
But it looks like i should be on the search for a new speedometer cable housing.
Advice?
Think Marlin crawler sells that double seal set up... gotta find it.
I'd it worth trying to tap them out? I don't have great skill in that area.
I may put the sleeve in for now to see if it helps, but will prolly see if i can replace that speedo housing instead.
Thanks!

 

[MOTOV8R]

Maybe see if Georg @orangefj45 will take that one as is for a core against one of his dual seal units. Two birds one stone deal. Definitely sleeve it as well.

 

[orangefj45]

Maybe see if Georg @orangefj45 will take that one as is for a core against one of his dual seal units. Two birds one stone deal. Definitely sleeve it as well.

Thank you sir!

Yes, we have the dual-seal rear extension housing kits in stock and ready to ship. We also stock the parking brake shoes and everything else for the tcases …..
You can weld nuts to the broken bolts to get them out. I’d highly recommend doing that instead of trying to drill them out.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

 

[dazerb]

DMing George

 

[Mark Jennings]

For sure, you will need a speedy sleeve on that brake drum….
If you replace the TC extension housing, there are shims that set the preload on the TC output shaft bearing. You may need to add/subtract shims to compensate for differences in the extension(s). Generally, I’ve found that differences are minor and you can use the old shims successfully, but you still need to check. Since you are not removing the TC, the method in the FSM for checking preload is N/A. What I have done in the past….put the transmission in neutral, measure the torque required to turn the output shaft….then match that once you install the new extension.

 

[dazerb]

For sure, you will need a speedy sleeve on that brake drum….
If you replace the TC extension housing, there are shims that set the preload on the TC output shaft bearing. You may need to add/subtract shims to compensate for differences in the extension(s). Generally, I’ve found that differences are minor and you can use the old shims successfully, but you still need to check. Since you are not removing the TC, the method in the FSM for checking preload is N/A. What I have done in the past….put the transmission in neutral, measure the torque required to turn the output shaft….then match that once you install the new extension.

Thanks Mark! Noted!

 

[Paul_A]

Either the bolts were a tick too long or the lock washers were missing--probably got mixed up during a previous rebuild--and they bottomed out in the housing and snapped when wrenching them in. Get the dual seal housing--good investment--and then fix the original for a spare. Drill a pilot hole and use an easy out to back the shanks out. It's not hard to do and there's no better time to learn that skill.

 

[dazerb]

Valley hybrid and George for the win . Gonna try the kit and hope they can save the core

 

[dazerb]

Either the bolts were a tick too long or the lock washers were missing--probably got mixed up during a previous rebuild--and they bottomed out in the housing and snapped when wrenching them in. Get the dual seal housing--good investment--and then fix the original for a spare. Drill a pilot hole and use an easy out to back the shanks out. It's not hard to do and there's no better time to learn that skill.

Thanks Paul. Went back and looked... You are dead right, missing lockwasher on bolt 3.
Can i still blame th PO after 16 years of ownership?! . I haven't ever touched the e brake, nor have i ever touched that clutch slave either.
AND in true cruiser fashion, my e brake works pretty good still.

 

[Green Bean]

Don’t forget one of the bolts is shorter than the other 3. If I recall correctly, it goes in the lower left corner. Georg provides a nice set of Allen-head bolts.

 

[charliemeyer007]

If you plan to drill and ez out, then first use a good automatic center punch and carefully get a good center mark as accurately as possible. The use a regular center punch to make a deep mark. Use a small pilot drill to get a hole started, then move up in size and use the ez out. Don't drill too deep and ruin something else. 1/8 or 3/16 is as big as I would go. Don't break the ez out. Use some penetrate oil and let it soak a while. Welding a nut is a good way too if you can and have the tools.

 

[peesalot]

I have found that when I leave p-brake on and let clutch out it shears all 4. They are usually really easy to back out, a center punch and a little tapping or just spin em out with finger or remove housing, send to Georg & put new one on, remember to save the shims and it wouldnt hurt to check output preload after the swap to be sure the new output housing isnt overloading the bearing, adjust shims if nec. to achieve proper output preload.

 

[dazerb]

Don’t forget one of the bolts is shorter than the other 3. If I recall correctly, it goes in the lower left corner. Georg provides a nice set of Allen-head bolts.

Yessir. All gaskets and o rings too. Those Allen bolts =A+
I did not know that about the shorter one THANK YOU!

 

[dazerb]

If you plan to drill and ez out, then first use a good automatic center punch and carefully get a good center mark as accurately as possible. The use a regular center punch to make a deep mark. Use a small pilot drill to get a hole started, then move up in size and use the ez out. Don't drill too deep and ruin something else. 1/8 or 3/16 is as big as I would go. Don't break the ez out. Use some penetrate oil and let it soak a while. Welding a nut is a good way too if you can and have the tools.

Thanks Charlie! I've done a few on the bumper where i didn't have to be so careful. This is A+ craft tip thank you!

 

[OlYellr]

Thank you sir!

Yes, we have the dual-seal rear extension housing kits in stock and ready to ship. We also stock the parking brake shoes and everything else for the tcases …..
You can weld nuts to the broken bolts to get them out. I’d highly recommend doing that instead of trying to drill them out.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

Edited - posted in wrong thread - oops - deleting text