47's HJ47 ute build (1 Viewer)

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Nope, not factory
 
Okay, cheers mate.

Just wanting some opinions on what I should do with the roof, should I repair it or go for a fibreglass one? There's something cool about having a steel one.
Also, does anyone have any tips that they would like to share as to replacing the cam shaft cover gaskets? I will have to do that before I get it registered but apart from that the 178, 125KM 2H engine is very happy and does not blow any smoke anymore (and I haven't done anything to it:). It just decided to like it's new owner finally ;)).
 
Well, this turned up today, which is good. Any tips for installation? (yes it's a brake master;))
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Okay, I have to admit that I am now stumped. I installed the new brake master today in the belief that it would be the fix to my woes. Not so.
With the new brake master installed the bleeding began. When the bleeding was done, I still had the same problem, push the pedal to the floor on the first pump, on the second pump it was better but still went in too much, and on the third pump, it was good, So I pulled out onto the driveway and pumped the pedal three times and let the clutch out. Then I pushed the clutch back in and hit the brake pedal. Pulls up hard. Wait ten seconds and the pedal is as bad as before. Now I really need some help here as to what the problem is and how to fix it. Help would be much appreciated. :cheers:
 
Likely that either:
  • there's still air trapped in your brake system, or
  • your wheel cylinders aren't adjusted properly.
With this beauty, I'm sure I'd have no trouble ensuring there's no air left:
BrakeBleederWurth1.jpg


This Wurth vacuum bleeder has great suction so I can actually see the level in the reservoir fall at it works.

This good flow means that if I have a slug of air in one of the lines, it automatically gets drawn towards the bleed nipple the unit is hooked up to.. (And I can just stand by the reservoir to ensure it never gets sucked dry.)

But if you're relying on two-person bleeding (or similar), every time you stop to refill the reservoir or whatever, trapped air can drift back up to the high point in the lines and never ever reach your bleed nipple (and thus never get expelled).

So .......

Make very sure all your wheel cylinders adjusters are adjusted such that there's minimal piston-travel required to make the shoes grip and then do your best with what you've got there to ensure there's no trapped air.

And if you haven't got a decent vacuum bleeder like I've shown above, then you may need to get a third person to top the reservoir while someone is following your instructions on the brake pedal and you are working the nipple (to make sure you don't give trapped air sufficient time to elude the nipple).

And if you find you can't get any decent flow from a wheel-cylinder nipple (when the pedal is depressed), then maybe crack open the connection right at the master and see if it squirts out there.

Many people recommend bench-bleeding the master before fitting it so as to ensure it doesn't contain air ..... and at least that would be easier for you where your outlets point upwards whereas mine point horizontally (meaning that fluid from mine would dribble out and make a mess ... and tend to let air back in ...during re-installation whereas fluid from yours wouldn't)

:beer:
 
Thanks for that Lostmarbles, I will pick up one of those little gadgets sometime and give it a whirl. You could be right about the air going back to a higher point in the line... hopefully that's all it is.
 
Actually there's lots more to say (and no doubt it's already been said elsewhere too LOL)..

For instance, each bleed nipple has a small side-drilled orifice-hole in it. These often get constricted with rust and other crud which will impair the nipple's ability to pass brake-fluid. So it can be helpful to twiddle a small drill bit through these fine holes and blow them out with compressed air beforehand. (Low flow rates will be reluctant to carry "slugs of air" down to your bleed nipples.)s because the heavier fluid will want to push it upwards pressure will Without good flow, it's harder for the air to get dragged out

Brakes can be very frustrating so hang in there and keep your brain active while your working. (I say this because I have a tendency to go into autopilot and then only figure out the best work methods later when I'm starting to get a bit frustrated and not at my best.)

:beer:
 
sneak peak at the tray... getting blasted and power coated black in a couple of weeks... I reckon the gateway to the outback number plate is the best south aussie one, what do you guys reckon?

haven't had time to do anything with the brakes yet lostmarbles, but I will let you know if I make them better or worse...

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No-one knows what these are do they;)
Yep-split rims with the original paint on them..

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No-one knows what these are do they;)
Yep-split rims with the original paint on them..

Nice!

I've just seen on your Aussi eBay some unusual wide splits being sold with a vehicle:
SplitWide.JPG

I'm assuming they've been widened and weren't originally like that.

Interesting to me because I've never seen widened splits before....

Makes me wonder what size inner tubes they've used, and how easy it is to get bigger inner tubes (or whether they stuck with 7.50 x 16 inner tubes which would be a bit dodgy I think)?

:beer:
 
Nice!

I've just seen on your Aussi eBay some unusual wide splits being sold with a vehicle:
View attachment 1073412
I'm assuming they've been widened and weren't originally like that.

Interesting to me because I've never seen widened splits before....

Makes me wonder what size inner tubes they've used, and how easy it is to get bigger inner tubes (or whether they stuck with 7.50 x 16 inner tubes which would be a bit dodgy I think)?

:beer:
yeah, I'm not sure. wonder how much it would cost to get them widened? I only have them on for going through rego (hopefully soon) and then I'll get some 33' bighorns...
I've got all four on now, so I'll post up some pictures some time.
 
I got these today... to re-place those old ranchos. I only got these for $100 dollars... a bargain. after rego li will get some OME's or something.
I also have a thing that is coming from ARB that makes cruisers look a whole heap more manly... a safari snorkel.

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Ok, no need to rub it in...I'd get one too if it would be of any use to me...
 
Well guys, you might or might not know how "young and foolish" I am, but if you don't well here it is. I still cannot drive on the road legally, but that has not stopped me (19 days till I get my l's:bang::mad:), as my cruiser has had several trips on the road with, well, me behind the wheels, which it has enjoyed. As you can imagine I am extremely crapped off and annoyed about this unfortunate fact that I cannot change. I am itching to drive my cruiser and it is itching to be driven; I was born driving these things it seems (first thing I drove was a trusty 47 back when I was, let's see... well younger than 8 puny years of age.)

So as you can see I am extremely underprivileged.;)

So until then, the Cruiser will be coming along nicely with the tray to be blasted and painted in the next 2 weeks. since I know the guy at the blasting place, my sunraysia's are getting re-painted as is the roof and the front thingy-ma-bob that I've taken the paint off.
I'll be up-dating this thread as it happens and will be asking many questions, so any help would awesome.
cheers
 
.... I still cannot drive on the road legally, but that has not stopped me (19 days till I get my l's:bang::mad:), as my cruiser has had several trips on the road with, well, me behind the wheels....

Forwarded to your local constabulary for the appropriate punitive action...



:D
 
. wonder how much it would cost to get them widened?

I looked into this with a local race car engineering place that has a good reputation for it . The figure I got back was $300 per wheel, but he'd need to look at them first, and that could go up depending on what width wheel band I wanted to use.
 
I looked into this with a local race car engineering place that has a good reputation for it . The figure I got back was $300 per wheel, but he'd need to look at them first, and that could go up depending on what width wheel band I wanted to use.
Only one problem, those rims are not mine but my cousins who also has a nice 47;)

well my tray in down at the blasters getting a good going over and then finishing it up with some paint. I should have it back in a few weeks so i'll post up some pictures then.

today next week I'll also legally be on the road...
 

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