Once the cotter key is removed, the end cap should unscrew. Doesn't look too difficult. I think the wear parts are still available if you find trouble in yours. I had found the specs somewhere on proper tension when reinstalling.
1981 Pickup 4 X 4 New Owner (3 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks for that guys. Took a few days breather. I’ll give it a closer look and check the manual. I need to remove part 45612 from the steering drag link. It is the end with the ball joint.
Thanks for the boot recommendation. I’ll stop by Napa to check them out.
Thanks for the boot recommendation. I’ll stop by Napa to check them out.
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- #64
OK, so I rebuilt my calipers and go to assemble the two halves together and see that the rebuild kit does not have the two little round rubber seals that go between the calipers. Seriously? I look at Rock Auto to double check maybe the kits were packed wrong. Nope, the kits do not include those critical parts. What supplier would not include all the seals? So now I need those and have no idea where to get them. Anyone with experience sourcing these. I need 4, of course.
Also, I got the steering drag link off the steering arm on the left knuckle. That's all apart and the cleaning process is commencing. When I unscrewed the plug, only the spring came out. No other parts like the seats shown in the photo above. Hmmm, are those plastic wear parts? If so, maybe they disintegrated.
Also, I got the steering drag link off the steering arm on the left knuckle. That's all apart and the cleaning process is commencing. When I unscrewed the plug, only the spring came out. No other parts like the seats shown in the photo above. Hmmm, are those plastic wear parts? If so, maybe they disintegrated.
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- #65
Calipers redone and ready for reassembly.
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- #66
OK, a little update. The calipers are reassembled and the right one is installed. That rebuild is complete. I did have to source the caliper rubber rings from Pegasus Racing. Found one that fit the dimension. On the left side, I got the steering arm completely disassembled and removed from the truck. I answered my own question about any plastic wear parts - there are none. It is good to get that off the truck and cleaned up Pretty old grease in there. The steering box seems to have been leaking a long time, so a rebuild on that is also on the list. Any advice or tips/tricks anyone can share would be a huge help.
Ordered up a new steering stabilizer and all new spring bushings from Moog and torque tube bushings from Toyota. All set for that next stage of the project. I was also thinking of the best way to clean up the surface rust on the under carriage and it seems like a daunting task. Then I remembered dry ice cleaning. That might just be the ticket to clean it up enough for paint. Need to look into that...
Ordered up a new steering stabilizer and all new spring bushings from Moog and torque tube bushings from Toyota. All set for that next stage of the project. I was also thinking of the best way to clean up the surface rust on the under carriage and it seems like a daunting task. Then I remembered dry ice cleaning. That might just be the ticket to clean it up enough for paint. Need to look into that...
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- #67
So update on the refresh. Right side has been done for a while and completing the left side. New torque tube bushings installed and that side of the differential cleaned and painted. I’m going to wrap this knuckle up and before I install the steering arm, will remove both front leaf springs to clean up and install bushings. I’ll clean and paint the other half of the differential then and drain and fill with new oil. Kinda nice that these trucks are pretty easy to work on.
Next will be working my way back with a wire wheel and Eastwood converter spray and paint. One thing that really disappointed me is finding this rust hole. Can’t believe I missed this upon initial inspection. How bad is that going to be to repair? It is between the cab and the flange for the body mount. That’s gotta be a cab off repair I would think.
Next will be working my way back with a wire wheel and Eastwood converter spray and paint. One thing that really disappointed me is finding this rust hole. Can’t believe I missed this upon initial inspection. How bad is that going to be to repair? It is between the cab and the flange for the body mount. That’s gotta be a cab off repair I would think.
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- #69
Great photo, thanks. Good to know I can do that with the cab still on the truck.
One thing that I am embarrassed to say is that I goobered up the wheel studs on that right side trying to put the wheel back on. Dammit I am pissed at myself. The threads must have mushroomed a little when I was punching them out even though I used a brass punch. I am pretty sure that there is not enough room between the stud and the hub to get a thread chaser in there. I am probably going to have to pull both hubs back off to remove the studs. Damn... And I screwed up two or three of the lug nuts as well. Really stupid mistake that is going to cost a ton of extra time to redo.
One thing that I am embarrassed to say is that I goobered up the wheel studs on that right side trying to put the wheel back on. Dammit I am pissed at myself. The threads must have mushroomed a little when I was punching them out even though I used a brass punch. I am pretty sure that there is not enough room between the stud and the hub to get a thread chaser in there. I am probably going to have to pull both hubs back off to remove the studs. Damn... And I screwed up two or three of the lug nuts as well. Really stupid mistake that is going to cost a ton of extra time to redo.
Not sure about '81, but you may have one of these doublers to deal with sandwiched between the floor and the body perch, along with a boatload of spot welds. Probably added to beef things up a bit being it's at a mounting point.
This is from an '84 thru '88:
This is from an '84 thru '88:
- Thread starter
- #71
Well, I dodged a bullet and a simple thread chaser brought the wheel studs back in line. And I ran a tap through the lug nuts to clean them up, however I did damage two of them pretty good.
Before I put the tie rod on and complete the project, I want to replace all my rubber bushings in the leaf springs. Holy crap are those bolts stuck in there. I would prefer to not cut them if I can avoid it. Any suggestions on what you guys have done with success? Hammering on the rear shackle bolt does no good. I do not think these bushings in the truck have inner and outer sleeves for he bolt to rust on to.
Before I put the tie rod on and complete the project, I want to replace all my rubber bushings in the leaf springs. Holy crap are those bolts stuck in there. I would prefer to not cut them if I can avoid it. Any suggestions on what you guys have done with success? Hammering on the rear shackle bolt does no good. I do not think these bushings in the truck have inner and outer sleeves for he bolt to rust on to.
I wouldn’t risk a wheel coming off on the highway by fixing the threads.
For the springs, a solution of atf, acetone, and diesel in equal parts and soak/heat up to a week. Works better than PB Blaster. You may have to torch those old bushings off.
For the springs, a solution of atf, acetone, and diesel in equal parts and soak/heat up to a week. Works better than PB Blaster. You may have to torch those old bushings off.
The rear frame eye does have a metal sleeve. The sleeve is larger than the eye on the mount and it rusts to the bolt making it impossible to remove. You need to cut that one off. As far as the shackles, they should come out, but as said, soak them in something.
A bubba solution to the rear frame mount issue. Drill out the mount to 18mm, then use a standard 18mm bolt. This will eliminate the sleeve. Just make sure the bolt isn't too long and runs into the gas tank.
A bubba solution to the rear frame mount issue. Drill out the mount to 18mm, then use a standard 18mm bolt. This will eliminate the sleeve. Just make sure the bolt isn't too long and runs into the gas tank.
- Thread starter
- #74
Thanks @thetoyotaman, I could not remember that special concoction. Also, be rest assured that I am not reusing the damaged lug nuts. Those are trash. I just ran the tap through the remaining good ones to clean the threads. I was able to remove the shackle on the rear of the front springs using a large clamp to press the bolt far enough To get some PB blaster in the bushing. That did the trick.
Now after doing that, it appears that someone was recently in there and replaced bushings. Maybe even the springs, although I do not have record of that. There is some stenciling on the RF that makes me think it could be a replacement, but could be original. Truck sits level and there is no bushing play, so I think I will forgo bushings for now until I put some more miles on it.
Time to wrap up the knuckle, brake line, and shock project and get it back on its wheels. Gotta figure out how to remove that winch front rack With some bent wrenches.
Now after doing that, it appears that someone was recently in there and replaced bushings. Maybe even the springs, although I do not have record of that. There is some stenciling on the RF that makes me think it could be a replacement, but could be original. Truck sits level and there is no bushing play, so I think I will forgo bushings for now until I put some more miles on it.
Time to wrap up the knuckle, brake line, and shock project and get it back on its wheels. Gotta figure out how to remove that winch front rack With some bent wrenches.
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- Thread starter
- #75
Got the new shifter bushings in and it shifts so nice now. As was pointed out in my initial posts, the shifter boot assembly was reversed. Why they did that I have no idea. Even had to cut the boot to get it past the larger diameter 4WD shifter. SMH. So repainted it and installed correctly. New inner boot over the shifter housing and a new leather shift boot from Redline Products. Fit is perfect and it surprisingly came from Poland.
I removed the fender arch panels and mud flaps and thoroughly cleaned them. Then my OCD kicks in and I can’t install the mud flaps without the white TOYOTA lettering.
I removed the fender arch panels and mud flaps and thoroughly cleaned them. Then my OCD kicks in and I can’t install the mud flaps without the white TOYOTA lettering.
- Thread starter
- #76
Thought I’d post an update. Pretty much got the front suspension, knuckle, brakes , etc done and refinished. Pretty pleased with the results. I even took the inner fender well liners off and scrubbed them clean and removed most of that awful undercoating rust prevention stuff. Sure wish there was a way to remove it from the inner fender without damaging the paint. Any suggestions?
Well, painting the mud flap didn’t work, so had to strip that off. Bunch of wasted time. Got a new windshield gasket and may hold off on that until I finish the rest of the frame refinish and rear suspension. Not sure, I may dive into it though. I also got new corner lights and installed the front ones. They work! The little gains are fun.
Well, painting the mud flap didn’t work, so had to strip that off. Bunch of wasted time. Got a new windshield gasket and may hold off on that until I finish the rest of the frame refinish and rear suspension. Not sure, I may dive into it though. I also got new corner lights and installed the front ones. They work! The little gains are fun.
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- #77
Decided to refinish the skid plate also. I wish it was warm as I’d really like to power wash the underside. Should have done that first thing. Doh!
I saw a post in another thread about what looked like an aftermarket electric fuel pump that looks just like one on my truck. Got me thinking so I took a photo to post here. Is that aftermarket? My engine driven fuel pump is still in place and hooked up, so I assume it’s still working. What is this electric pump attached to the passenger side frame rail just below the front of the bed?
I saw a post in another thread about what looked like an aftermarket electric fuel pump that looks just like one on my truck. Got me thinking so I took a photo to post here. Is that aftermarket? My engine driven fuel pump is still in place and hooked up, so I assume it’s still working. What is this electric pump attached to the passenger side frame rail just below the front of the bed?
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That pump is not stock. Might be interesting to identify it and its rating
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- #79
I didn’t think that was OE. I wonder why it is installed. A backup to the mechanical one? Seems unlikely. I’ll look for a part number to ID. Also see if I can determine line routing for this and the factory mechanical one.
If fuel is still routed through the mechanical pump it's possible someone was trying to bandaid a bad fuel pump or a plugged tank screen. Make sure your mechanical pump is not bad and/or leaking fuel into the crankcase.
By the way, I would personally leave the inner fender factory coating. I've never seen issues with it. Just spray some tire bleach white on it and you'll have it looking like new.
By the way, I would personally leave the inner fender factory coating. I've never seen issues with it. Just spray some tire bleach white on it and you'll have it looking like new.
