So, is there a way to completely flush the system?
Power Steering Moaning When Offroading (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LFD2037
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So, what's the deal on hydraulic fluid? Please school me on this. Thanks.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
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After I started this thread I did the 'easy' way of changing the PS fluid. What was in there looked like motor oil it was so wasted! Doubt it had ever been changed. I drove to work, sucked out the fluid in reservoir & added new tranny fluid. Drove home from work, sucked out the fluid & added new tranny fluid. Did this about 7-8 times & now my fluid is a pretty pinkish color. Looks waaaaaay better & is quieter. I used a 60cc syringe & a 14g catheter @ work & a turkey baster @ home. I still would like to change all the lines out to new lines & add a real cooler. Maybe 1 day.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-change-power-steering-fluid.78646/
"Downey has been reported to quiet Groaning by putting a teaspoon or two in the system."
Hmmm, I live in Downey and it is pretty quiet.
"Downey has been reported to quiet Groaning by putting a teaspoon or two in the system."
Hmmm, I live in Downey and it is pretty quiet.
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Yep, kinda. The main cause of the groan is cavitation, vapor bubbles forming on the suction side of the pump, then imploding on the pressure side. Old, contaminated, broken down fluid is much more prone to cavitation than new fluid, so often a simple flush/switch to new fluid is all that is needed.
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ATF is basicly hydraulic fluid with additives to handle the clutches, red dye, etc. The power steering system is a purely hydraulic system, so has no use for these additives. Have found that pure hydraulic fluid outperforms ATF in this application. DTE light is very good hydraulic fluid, have been running it in all of the ones that we service for many years, even with the stock cooler, 37" tires, desert conditions, no more groaning.
We work on, reseal a lot of them, and even when noise isn't reported, it's easy to tell the ones that have been run on ATF, always have much more varnish and often black goo from the cavitation. From the factory, our rigs came with clear/tan fluid, likely hydraulic/PS fluid (virtually the same thing). No matter what fluid you choose, it's good to have fresh fluid, flushing it every couple of years is a good thing, I would do it more often if running ATF.
We work on, reseal a lot of them, and even when noise isn't reported, it's easy to tell the ones that have been run on ATF, always have much more varnish and often black goo from the cavitation. From the factory, our rigs came with clear/tan fluid, likely hydraulic/PS fluid (virtually the same thing). No matter what fluid you choose, it's good to have fresh fluid, flushing it every couple of years is a good thing, I would do it more often if running ATF.
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My choices for fluid: First would be a top quality hydraulic fluid, light/ISO 32, this will perform/last the best. Second would be power steering fluid (generic, old school type, not the stuff for, Honda, Audi, etc) this is basicly light hydraulic fluid, but is more difficult to tell quality. Last, ATF, it will work, but the others will outperform it.
Maybe the same question but in a different way.
Why was there a switch from power steering fluid to ATF?
Why was there a switch from power steering fluid to ATF?
So, if hydraulic fluid is good how do you guys choose the weight? Going to the mobil page on the hydraulic fluid there are lots of different weights to choose from. Thanks.
I'm also using the Mobil DTE 24 with good results (less whine), might switch over to their Excel series when I replace my PS pump:
http://www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/english/products_mobil-dte-10-excel-series.aspx
http://www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/...te-10-excel-next-generation-hydraulic-oil.pdf
http://www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/english/products_mobil-dte-10-excel-series.aspx
http://www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/...te-10-excel-next-generation-hydraulic-oil.pdf
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Because ATF is an acceptable fluid, will work for most, is commonly carried in all shops, one less fluid to stock, etc. We are a bit unique, tend to bolt on big tires, then play in the rocks under desert conditions, not the most common usage?
Have seen it a bunch of times, a system in good condition, fresh ATF, play in the rocks in hot conditions and groans. Flush the ATF out for PS or hydraulic fluid and quiet.
Most of the fluid lives in the box, so the best method is flushing it out of the return hose into a bucket, we run the motor to pump it out. Especially when the fluid is old, black, even then, will likely take a couple of flushes to get it close to clean.
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Just picked close to the viscosity of ATF/PS fluid.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Yes and yes. Both part of my overall overhaul plan. But I have all the time in the world and its not going to be anything production worthy.
* MileMarker Hydraulic Winch
* Gearbox rebuild by Lee Powersteering in Sun Valley (specialize in race applications and will tune and port match the gear driven PS pump with the modified gear box)
* 105 Sector shaft
* 105 Pitman arm
* All new AeroQuip power steering hoses
* All new AeroQuip AN fittings
* Appleton Reservoir with filter
* All flushed new Mobil Hydraulic fluid
* Inline hydraulic pressure gauge
* Hydraulic temperature gauge
* Keep my existing Derale oil cooler
Good message. To add to it the black goo and varnish is caused by electrolysis. When those tiny vapor bubbles implode they create an electric charge. This electric charge breaks down the oil and leads to varnish deposits. The varnish deposits coat the inside of the system including the coolers resulting in additional impared cooling.
A solution to the varnish is flushing. Oil varnish is soluble by new clean oil. I flushed my system by lifting the front wheels, disconnecting the cooler line and running clean oil through the system while turning the steering wheel lock to lock until the fluid ran clean. Ideally this flush should be repeated after running the system for a while as the clean oil will slowly work to dissolve the varnish.
Why does the oil foam in the first place? New oil has anti foaming agents added to it. As the oil ages it looses its anti foaming properties. I like the idea of using hydraulic fluid and will switch my system over with an additional two flushes. Possibly hydraulic fluid have a better additives package than ATF as well as it is intended for hydraulic systems. When changing oil types there should be two replacement flushes as some oils are incomparable together and you need to ensure no contamination exists. This is especially true with different synthetic formulations.
Yep I have been preaching the turkey baster method since I got my truck. Do it every oil change you're guaranteed to have decently fresh fluid all the time. Same with trans fluid, 4qts every other oil change, always good to go.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
There are actually guys on MUD that say the trans fluid should never need to be replaced. I don't subscribe to that philosophy. I change it every other oil change or about once per year. Cheap insurance.
I got some moaning and groaning and hard steering from my power steering when fjording some 3" deep water on the street a feed weeks ago. I figured it was the belt slipping on the pulley. It went away as soon as I was out of the water.
I've never flushed my power steering fluid. Added to the list. I need to replace my hoses (and I would guess the O rings..). Had a small leak on the low pressure hose. Will switch to hydraulic when I do this. I'm assuming you flush it a couple of times with new hydraulic. Then run it for a few days to get the varnish to break free, then flush again. Repeat until "clean".
CruiseOrlando
Conveniently Enhanced
Is there an effective, cheap fluid you can use to "flush" with?
Flush on e until the fluid runs clear then some time later flush again. His will allow the varnish to be dissolved by new fluid then replaced again. That is what I am going to do.
