Interesting discovery on 1kz-te and 2lt-te fuel pumps. (2 Viewers)

[gotoy]

This maybe common knowledge to most but thought I would share.

Over the last year or so my 1kz-te engine had been reving occasionaly, at idle, between 400 and 800rpm. After going through the fuel system the problem still persisted. Finaly 1 month plus ago the fuse on the battery terminal blew creating puff of smoke from the engine bay.

The problem was finaly tracked down to a dodgy Fuel Spill Control valve on the electronic fuel pump. The fuel spill control valve is located on the rear on the pump and has a 2 wire connector, (can't post the pdf I have as network does not allow access to photobucket).

A faulty Spill Control Valve can be identified by using an ohm meter. The open circuit, without the wires connected, ohm reading should be between 1 - 2 ohms, ideally 1.4ohm. The dodgy one on my pump was reading 24ohm.

The whole pump was exchanged at the the time and the engine is now running very well. Exchanged at the time as was quite some distance from decent workshop facilities.

Now for the interesting part:

The 1kz-te fuel pump spill control valve is also the same as can be found on the 2lt-te fuel pump.

So for those who suspect problems with fuel pumps, check the Spill Control valve.

Signs for bad Spill Control valve:

1. Difficult to start.
2. Horrid smog emitted from exhaust on start up.
3. Erratic idling.
4. Blown fuse on battery side.
5. Not too sure on this one, still to be confirmed. Battery drainage.

Above 5 points were are as I had.

Hope the above will be useful.

 

[cicak]

Thanks for that JEM im having trouble with 2,3 and 5 (they disconnected the ALARM to stop battery drainage) . Im taking it in today to get injectors cleaned as I am blowing white smoke on startup - Im putting it down to the rollover and subsequent sitting unstarted for 6 months causing the injector to stick open.

I also have rough idling the car rocks slicghly more than usuaal and does not sound smooth.

 

[gotoy]

If you recall the blue swb parked up at mechanix shop for a long time also had this spill valve problem.

I forgot to mention I also had the ECU cleaned up. PCB cleaned, odd leaking component changed and a few resoldering. But when replaced back into vechicle there was no difference. Then we found the spill control valve problem.

 

[cambelt]

spill valve

Hi guys
I'm not too sure if the 1kz spill valve is the identicle part number too the 2lte but I know they interchange . However has anyone had sucess in ajusting them ( under the little metal cap)
I've played around with the ajustment but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference and also you must be careful as over ajustment can close the valve full and over rev the engine till it goes bang. I've seen 6500 rpm on a 1 kz and it survived luckily.
Dave

 

[crushers]

how hard is it to change the spill valve?
as you know i have that PITA 1KZ sitting here, it has a couple of your diagnostic issues showing so maybe this would be a good swap.
i have a 2LTE pump that was working fine.

cheers

 

[niwde11]

i think i've posted here it already regarding the interchangeability of spill control valve on 1kzte and 2lte pumps.
here it is.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-...gine-sounds-sick-sporadic-odd-knocking-8.html
done it 3 years ago by this old mechanic here(used to work in the middle east). it took him only few hours to diagnose the faulty part. of course he had a working 1kzte vehicle beside him.
crushers,
the mechanic has this special tool he fabricated(i assume he had it long time ago). its like an open wrench bended upwards. the metal(wrench) is quite thin but strong. without removing the pump from the engine, he just place the open wrench between the pump body and the round head of the valve(the hex part). then he will use an adjustable wrench or vise grip to twist the upper portion of the bended metal. i hope i explained it clearly. hth.

 

[crushers]

so no nasty surprises once i have it loosened? just unscrew and screw in the replacement?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Good info, thanks for sharing.

 

[cicak]

Got the green car back tonight I was right the injectors were sick. A couple had low pressure and were cleaned the other two blocked.

Anyway the idle is much smoother now.

We will see in the morning when it starts if white smoke blows out.

and I got my ISUZU pickup back after being off the road for 8 weeks. its 3.5 years old (farking thing handles like a bag of cr@p just horrible to drive) and for some reason I still prefer to drive the 22 year old GREEN 1KZ auto it handles better and drives nicer.

 

[gotoy]

Must remember to have my injectors done too.

In Singapore last year I actually went to the diesel shop to witness injectors before and after. Initially the injectors were only giving what could be described ad a dribble but after refurbishment there was a very fine mist like spray.

 

[cicak]

Bad news still have the white smoke on startup but it must be left for 4 hours before this occurs.

ats means the head has to come off at some point.

However the rough idle is gone and it has power again.

 

[gotoy]

Bad news still have the white smoke on startup but it must be left for 4 hours before this occurs.

ats means the head has to come off at some point.

However the rough idle is gone and it has power again.

How is the water consumption? Maybe head gasket.

 

[cicak]

coolant fine we are thinking turbo seal or valve guide.

 

[Maddox]

This maybe common knowledge to most but thought I would share.

Over the last year or so my 1kz-te engine had been reving occasionaly, at idle, between 400 and 800rpm. After going through the fuel system the problem still persisted. Finaly 1 month plus ago the fuse on the battery terminal blew creating puff of smoke from the engine bay.

The problem was finaly tracked down to a dodgy Fuel Spill Control valve on the electronic fuel pump. The fuel spill control valve is located on the rear on the pump and has a 2 wire connector, (can't post the pdf I have as network does not allow access to photobucket).

A faulty Spill Control Valve can be identified by using an ohm meter. The open circuit, without the wires connected, ohm reading should be between 1 - 2 ohms, ideally 1.4ohm. The dodgy one on my pump was reading 24ohm.

The whole pump was exchanged at the the time and the engine is now running very well. Exchanged at the time as was quite some distance from decent workshop facilities.

Now for the interesting part:

The 1kz-te fuel pump spill control valve is also the same as can be found on the 2lt-te fuel pump.

So for those who suspect problems with fuel pumps, check the Spill Control valve.

Signs for bad Spill Control valve:

1. Difficult to start.
2. Horrid smog emitted from exhaust on start up.
3. Erratic idling.
4. Blown fuse on battery side.
5. Not too sure on this one, still to be confirmed. Battery drainage.

Above 5 points were are as I had.

Hope the above will be useful.

Hi all am new on this site,have read on all the posts in hear hoping to find similar and have the following issue also posted in a similar site but need your help here too.This is relation to Toyota Estima 2.2 TD (96) which I believe has an indentical Injector pumpt to the 1KZTE Engine (some one has infact used a pump from the 1KZTE on the 3C-TE.

Here goes,I had the Injector pump replaced in my 1996 3C-TE Estima last year in April reason being the original once caused rough engine idle,http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPaVfb4x5j8&feature=channel&list=ULand check engine light would come on but disappear when engine was revved up.

The replacement pump arrived and was fitted in and upon turning the ignition in the 'ON' position,there there was an ODD continuous ticking sound right on the spill control valve. see video>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBuSB3SsSfU#ws

The Engine would crank but would not turn over.(no diesel coming to the injectors)
When the black wire (Earth) from the spill control valve is disconnected from the ECU feed and grounded directly to the body,the ticking sound stops and eventually Diesel comes to the injectors(bleed) and the bus starts,but the engine revs itself up to 2000 RPMs with Diesel Knock and excess whitish smoke which i presume means excess fuel presumably as a result of the valve not being correctly controlled by the ECU.

>>We first suspected that the spill control valve on the new pump was faulty and swapped it with the one on the old pump but oddly it also made the same tick sound.We also tried reconnecting the original injector pump and oddly the same happened which we found puzzling.All fuses were inspected and non were found to be playing up.We tried another ECU borrowed from the local garages breaking the same vehicle type but still no luck (we left it at that as I had to return to the UK in August 2010)

>>To further trouble shoot,I recently got another ECU (exact part number) from the UK and sent it back home but the same still happened.

Is there anyone who has ever come across such a problem as its really puzzled me including my mechanics and would this issue have to do with sensors such as a engine speed sensor or some other sensor?The wiring harness from the injector pump to the ECU has been inspected for any faults but have not found any issues.
To this day,the vehicle has never started and one back home has come across this problem
Could have the replacement injector pump cause a short some were as even swapping it back with the original one including spill valve swaps still has it ticking.

Many thanks!

 

[gotoy]

Hi, from your description still seems to be the spill control valve. As this is what I had.

Have you measured the resistance of both spill controls valves?

 

[andysgalant]

Ok, before you go and rebuild anything, you need to check the engine breather pipe. This is the rubber pipe that goes from your rocker cover to the air inlet.
if sufficient pressure has built up in the engine block, oil can by pass the turbo seal resulting in blue/white smoke. I have personally experienced this problem in a highly boosted 2.4L, I ended up needing to create a vent in the sump its a bit extreme but works wonders for your oil leaks.

be sure to fit a oil catch can if you add or enlarge any breather pipes
Diesels can run on engine oil !

Andy

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Engine block grounding has been found to be a problem with some smoking and starting issues with the 2LTE (and probably the 1KZTE, as it uses the same pump).

The spill control valve is available as a separate part. I have been able to source them in the past...

~John

 

[MartyG]

Reviving this thread to ask a question about ohms setting on the multimeter when checking ohms on the spill valve. I get 01.9 to 02.5 with it set at 200 and an audible beep on the multimeter. Just want to understand what the beep is. From reading other things, the beep means there’s a short or continuity in the spill valve. Is my spill valve good? Picture for reference to show what setting I’m using.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Reviving this thread to ask a question about ohms setting on the multimeter when checking ohms on the spill valve. I get 01.9 to 02.5 with it set at 200 and an audible beep on the multimeter. Just want to understand what the beep is. From reading other things, the beep means there’s a short or continuity in the spill valve. Is my spill valve good? Picture for reference to show what setting I’m using.

View attachment 2852956

A bit late to the party but for others wondering, the beep noise means you're getting continuity through the two pins on the spill valve. I haven't actually tested like this but I would have assumed the solenoid on the SCV was in a naturally open state (so no continuity, only closed when energized by the ECU) but I could be wrong about that!