[Carp]

Got my new 2F desmog carb directly from Trollhole. He's importing and selling F and 2F carbs for desmogged motors. You can read more about them here.

I decided to do this before our club's annual Over the Mountain Tour run, which was being held at Coal Creek OHV this year, 4 hours from home. This should be a good test for the carb to see the improvements.

I had recently desmogged the truck, and it was doing well, compared to the fully smogged state. But I was still having a flat spot issue and the truck still felt slow, with the stock smog carb.

Below is the engine with the stock carb and my hack desmog.






Took the old carb off and set it beside the new one to see the differences (the new one is on the left and shiny )

Notice the identical linkages but no vacuum pots.



Driver's side view, no choke breaker, no A/C idle up (it is easily transferred to the new carb), and much simpler.



Front of engine view - same viewing window, shaft for A/C idle up, and one fuel line in.



Passenger side of engine view - only 1 vacuum connection, advance for the distributor.



Moving the A/C idle up was very easy: remove the screw on the shaft, the 2 screws holding the bracket to the top of the carb, and slide the vacuum pot off. Repeat in reverse to install on new carb. I did use the original carb screws in the new carb to make sure that I didn't have them bottom out or barely make contact.

With the old carb removed, the install was VERY easy. Slide the carb into place, replace the linkage bracket, tighten the 4 nuts, hook up the fuel line, and you're golden. The one large vacuum line on the top of the stock carb is not used with the new carb. I think it is for the charcoal canister, and if I remember correctly, can be plugged.

Initial start was a little slow, I imagine it was trying to pump fuel up to the carb and get the air out. Once the truck started, it ran smoother than it ever has. Quiet too. Took a quick drive to the gas station and it was a different truck! It pulled all the way through the rev range to red-line. It is actually fun to drive now, but kinda makes me scared to push the ole 2F that hard w/ 205k on it.

On the trip to Knoxville, it performed flawlessly. I was able to accelerate uphill, and could have pulled the local mountain (Hwy 25 near the Cliffs) in 4th probably, if not for slow traffic in my way. On the way to Knoxville, I averaged 15mpg. Not bad considering that included a long uphill pull, and several floorboard sessions enjoying the newfound power.

A couple of things I've noticed is that most times the carb cranks almost like an EFI rig, half a turn of the motor, and it's idling. Also, when wheeling, the truck would basically die, and if I got the clutch in, the carb would bring the motor back to idle. AWESOME.

I am sure that I have some more stuff, but that's my quick write up. All in all, I'm very happy with the product, and imagine anyone else would be too. Definitely worth the money, IMHO.

Thanks Trollhole!

[tclark]

Great writeup; I just got my carb in and installed as well. Was gonna try a write up but can't find the camera. Guys if you're having carb troubles this is a super-simple and inexpensive(for a carb) swap, courtesy of Trollhole.
Man things look so much cleaner without all the smog stuff! I just hope I have the same results you did! Waiting on some JB Weld to dry so I can't fire her up just yet; I'll post results tomorrow hopefully.

[SouthCoastMudder]

I want!!

[Carp]

Oh yeah, here's the finished product, sans breather top.



One thing I forgot to mention, is that the fuel decel cutoff switch (the only electronic wires on either carb) don't have identical plugs. The new carb is a 1 wire system, while the 60 is a 2 wire plug. Not a problem. You can either do as I did and make a jumper to run from the 1 wire to the constant 12V side of the 60 plug, or you could switch plugs and make the wire go to the constant 12V. Another option, for those who want to try, might be to swap the sensors. I'm not certain it would work correctly, but might be worth a look.

[GLTHFJ60]

Cool! I love it!

[4WDBetterthan2feet]

I ordered one of these last week and I am looking forward to getting it installed. I have some over heating issues right now but hopefully I will get the carb and the heat issues sorted out this weekend. Thanks for the write up.

[cruiser88]

You mean he did not paint it purple?????????????






























I kid I kid. Good work Trollhole

[Brock]

cant wait to see your carb at the Annual Meeting...I am seriously considering one for my 60.

[Carp]

Sorry to disappoint, but I can't make the Annual. Season tickets and it's a home weekend. I'm bummed cause I want to see your beautiful 60.

[Carp]

Just filled up and got 14.6 MPG, that included some highway driving from Knoxville, some daily commuting(back roads), and some showing off of the secondary circuit in the carb. You can track my mileage on my Fuelly account.



I took the truck out for a drive tonight, and it just motors around at 2500rpm with no problems. Sometimes, I forget to shift from 3rd, it's so smooth. But it'll lug from 600 in 4th, no problem. So happy with this.

[Trollhole]

David I just bought a Wide band o2 sensor and would like to see what kind of ratio you are getting. Might be some fine tuning we could do.

[Carp]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

David I just bought a Wide band o2 sensor and would like to see what kind of ratio you are getting. Might be some fine tuning we could do.

Sounds good. I'll give you a call sometime soon to discuss particulars.

[Trapper50cal]

It appears that, like mine, prior to install you had BVSV1 (top one) hooked to carb and driverside VCV and that you had fuel cutoff solenoid attached to carb vacuum. Can you explain how you deleted these? Does anyone know if you can keep fuel cutoff solenoid by attaching to "gas"filter manifold vacuum? Some specificity would be appreciated.

Oh, and if I remember correctly, JimC posted in Fowldarrs desmog thread (prior to server crash and earlier backup) that the solenoid on the charcoal canister should be unplugged once vapor return line is capped...

Did you do anything to the fuel return line on the fuel pump or since it is at the fuel pump instead of the carb is it out of the picture?

[Carp]

Originally Posted by Trapper50cal

It appears that, like mine, prior to install you had BVSV1 (top one) hooked to carb and driverside VCV and that you had fuel cutoff solenoid attached to carb vacuum. Can you explain how you deleted these? Does anyone know if you can keep fuel cutoff solenoid by attaching to "gas"filter manifold vacuum? Some specificity would be appreciated.

Oh, and if I remember correctly, JimC posted in Fowldarrs desmog thread (prior to server crash and earlier backup) that the solenoid on the charcoal canister should be unplugged once vapor return line is capped...

Did you do anything to the fuel return line on the fuel pump or since it is at the fuel pump instead of the carb is it out of the picture?

I'll try my best to help, but not sure how much I'll actually help. For my carb install, there is no fuel decel cut-off vacuum port, so I just removed the hose from the fender. For the fuel return line on the pump, it had nothing to do with the carb, so I left it alone. My carb just had the 1 fuel line feeding the carb.

As for the valves, I'm not sure what you mean. In my case, after the desmog, the choke breaker circuit was all that was vacuumed on my carb, save the fuel decel and the line heading to the temperature valve (think it's the BVSV). Like I said, the fuel decel can be removed, and right now, right or wrong, I have the top hose from the BVSV running to the valve on the fender (VSV?). It's outside the carb, so I'm not sure I need it any more. My next project is to clean up all the stuff from the desmog and the carb install. Hopefully make it very tidy in there.

Keep asking me any more questions, and I'll try to get the desmog diagrams out to see how I can best describe what I did. Basically, it is bypassing all vacuum systems minus dizzy advance and A/C idle up.

[Trapper50cal]

Gotcha

[Melloj123]

Carp - Did you change out your distributor as well? If not, are there any mods to the dizzy that have to be done? I am considering Trollhole's carb for my 1985 60 (250K miles) which has not yet been desmogged . It runs ok but I am sure a fresh carb and desmog would make a big difference. I would however like to keep my dizzy and ignitor. Did you follow any particular desmog thread?

[Trollhole]

Keep your dizzy. It's a much, much better product.

[Brock]

I wont be at annual marshall...something came up but still want to check one out on someones 60....maybe at next run I can see CARPs or someone else. looks like great product...

[lovetoski]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

Keep your dizzy. It's a much, much better product.

Are there any changes that need to be made to the stock dizzy when installing your non-smog carb?

[Carp]

Originally Posted by lovetoski

Are there any changes that need to be made to the stock dizzy when installing your non-smog carb?

I didn't touch mine, and haven't touched it since before the desmog. I imagine I have some power potential in adjusting the timing, but it runs great as it is. Hope that helps. If not, please let me know and I'll get the info as best as I can.

[Carp]

Originally Posted by Melloj123

Carp - Did you change out your distributor as well? If not, are there any mods to the dizzy that have to be done? I am considering Trollhole's carb for my 1985 60 (250K miles) which has not yet been desmogged . It runs ok but I am sure a fresh carb and desmog would make a big difference. I would however like to keep my dizzy and ignitor. Did you follow any particular desmog thread?

I'm sorry that I skipped this post. I did follow fowldarr's "My Desmog Thread" to desmog. The truck was running as good as I could expect after the desmog, without a recurved dizzy or rebuilt carb. I would suggest doing the desmog first and making sure that the truck runs well, before installing this carb, just to make sure you don't do anything crazy. Maybe Trollhole has an idea?

I kept my stock ignition system, it seems to be in good shape.

Good Luck!

[tucson_sailors]

How about us poor luckless fellows who have to keep the smog junk in place? Will this new carb have any significant benefit if we can figure out how to reroute the existing smog vacuum lines?

Glenn in Tucson

[tclark]

Finally got to do a little wrenching after installing my new Trollhole carb--this thing is driving me insane It's idling great but falls on it's face above approx. 1800rpms. Less power than it had before the new carb. Can't find a vacuum leak anywhere, timing is on. New wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, blah blah. Pops a LOT when I let off the gas. Took the exhaust off right before the converter thinking it may be clogged--nothing gained but noise(this is actually what it feels like to me, a clogged exhaust) Voltage gauge shows low a lot of the time, but I have 2 alt. and the voltage at the battery is 12.5ish. Could this be ignition problems? Is there something I need to adjust on the carb? This is really frustrating! Everybody else is bolting in their new carb and grinning while I'm cursing

[Trollhole]

Post up some pics of the linkage on the carb.

[tclark]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

Post up some pics of the linkage on the carb.

Was that directed to me? If so I'll try to get some up tomorrow; fixing to head to Auburn to see LA Tech upset them.....

[Trollhole]

Yep to you. I'm not a fan of putting someones product on my vehicle and it not work correct. So before I ship you another carb I want to make sure the linkage is correct.

In this pic you can see a silver washer on the main throttle shaft. Does yours have this?

[tclark]

Can't find my camera, but I do have the silver washer. Is this good or bad? If that's not the problem any other suggestions?
Thanks for the help--and the carb!

[4WDBetterthan2feet]

I just installed one of these carbs and I am in the process of making some adjustments to get the idle to smooth out. Which wire is the constant 12v green or black? I don't have a multi meter or would not ask. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Carp

Oh yeah, here's the finished product, sans breather top.



One thing I forgot to mention, is that the fuel decel cutoff switch (the only electronic wires on either carb) don't have identical plugs. The new carb is a 1 wire system, while the 60 is a 2 wire plug. Not a problem. You can either do as I did and make a jumper to run from the 1 wire to the constant 12V side of the 60 plug, or you could switch plugs and make the wire go to the constant 12V. Another option, for those who want to try, might be to swap the sensors. I'm not certain it would work correctly, but might be worth a look.

[Carp]

Originally Posted by 4WDBetterthan2feet

I just installed one of these carbs and I am in the process of making some adjustments to get the idle to smooth out. Which wire is the constant 12v green or black? I don't have a multi meter or would not ask. Thanks.

I'll have to look when I get home, can't remember off the top of my head.

[Miloslavich]

looks like a great way to go for a new carb!

im gonna have to pick one of these up after i do my fan clutch