YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell (1 Viewer)

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I may have asked before...is there a way to get one blank with no logo's on it?

The normal YotaMD shells of this remote style "YMD1" have no logo on the back. There is a YotaMD text on the edge of the front half shell, but I've never done a run without that text. I could do one as a custom one-off. I would need to charge a custom fee and lead times would highly variable, pending when I next do a run of your chosen color.
 
The normal YotaMD shells of this remote style "YMD1" have no logo on the back. There is a YotaMD text on the edge of the front half shell, but I've never done a run without that text. I could do one as a custom one-off. I would need to charge a custom fee and lead times would highly variable, pending when I next do a run of your chosen color.
What would be the fee for custom? I'd like to just get black, hopefully you do runs of those regularly. Let me know, thanks!
 
What would be the fee for custom? I'd like to just get black, hopefully you do runs of those regularly. Let me know, thanks!
Once every few months for black. I'll send a PM with pricing for the one-off.
 
Great product! Old fob had seen its better days. Just installed while working from home today!
6398FE28-42AF-420C-A0E6-D8F56C5566F0.jpeg
 
17 year old daughter was driving the 100 and was using the eBay shell while the YotaMD was home in the drawer.

She went to start it and it shattered. 11 PM and stranded...luckily, at the Homecoming football game and I was in the same parking lot.

I had to use my Toyota pliers to get the truck to start (couldn’t start it or get the key blade out with bare fingers).

Immediately ordered a second YotaMD titanium shell.

I got my first one because I hated my taped-up OEM...this one because the situation could have been much worse but for proximity.

Pic of the new (front) and old (back):
D97DE562-5E04-455A-BB35-8385F0E71E7E.jpeg
 
Hey, @suprarx7nut.

I've got one of your shells from 2018 and I want to get a replacement black shell. I just want to confirm I'm understanding the revisions mentioned on your site.

My original YotaMD shell has an "I" on it, correct? Unfortunately, without seeing other shells for reference, an "I" can just be a line.

931659448.png


If this is the letter you reference in your instructions, does that mean I can only buy a V1 replacement shell to go with my existing titanium pieces?

I plan to get both front and back, by the way.

Thanks!
 
Hey, @suprarx7nut.

I've got one of your shells from 2018 and I want to get a replacement black shell. I just want to confirm I'm understanding the revisions mentioned on your site.

My original YotaMD shell has an "I" on it, correct? Unfortunately, without seeing other shells for reference, an "I" can just be a line.

View attachment 2115866

If this is the letter you reference in your instructions, does that mean I can only buy a V1 replacement shell to go with my existing titanium pieces?

I plan to get both front and back, by the way.

Thanks!

Correct, that is rev I. Good question. Yes, you'll want V1 shells. If you want a color that I don't have on the site for v1, let me know. If we need to switch you over to a v2 kit I can cut you a break on the upcharge. I intend to offer long term support on these and I know it can be a pain if your parts end up on an obsolete list.
 
Correct, that is rev I. Good question. Yes, you'll want V1 shells. If you want a color that I don't have on the site for v1, let me know. If we need to switch you over to a v2 kit I can cut you a break on the upcharge. I intend to offer long term support on these and I know it can be a pain if your parts end up on an obsolete list.
Thanks for the quick reply.

I don't mind having an older version so long as function isn't impacted.

As for colors, looks like you only show black and FDE available currently. I was planning on ordering black so that's good!

Is there any reason other than replacement shell compatibility that you would recommend I move to V2?
 
Thanks for the quick reply.

I don't mind having an older version so long as function isn't impacted.

As for colors, looks like you only show black and FDE available currently. I was planning on ordering black so that's good!

Is there any reason other than replacement shell compatibility that you would recommend I move to V2?

Function should remain as is. The V2 change was to accommodate some ignitions that are extra deep. V1 had a small chance of contact between the shell and ignition. V2 has extra clearance and required a very slight, but very inconvenient geometry change.

Hi @suprarx7nut. I am installing my YotaMD. I am not able to put the top nut fully into the designated hole and as a result the corresponding screw is not fitting properly... any thoughts??

View attachment 2115879

View attachment 2115880

Try taking an extra long screw and thread it through the front. It'll allow you to pull that nut into the recess a little more. Once you pull that nut into the recess, take the long screw out and thread the correct short screw in. I think that'll solve it. Sometimes the Cerakote builds up a little and makes it hard to seat those nuts. The upside is that once those nuts are installed, they'll be really solid.

Let me know if that doesn't do the trick.

-Andy
 
Function should remain as is. The V2 change was to accommodate some ignitions that are extra deep. V1 had a small chance of contact between the shell and ignition. V2 has extra clearance and required a very slight, but very inconvenient geometry change.



Try taking an extra long screw and thread it through the front. It'll allow you to pull that nut into the recess a little more. Once you pull that nut into the recess, take the long screw out and thread the correct short screw in. I think that'll solve it. Sometimes the Cerakote builds up a little and makes it hard to seat those nuts. The upside is that once those nuts are installed, they'll be really solid.

Let me know if that doesn't do the trick.

-Andy
I did try that but it did not help. Used the long screw but the nut would settle in the right place. Any other suggestions?
 
I did try that but it did not help. Used the long screw but the nut would settle in the right place. Any other suggestions?

Hmm, that's strange. Can you see any debris in the nut recess? I wonder if a small piece of debris got trapped under the Cerakote. The nut does look slight higher in that pic than normal. Usually it's recessed just slightly and yours appears flush.

See if you can see anything trapped under the nut and if nothing seems obvious I can send out a known good one with a nut pre-installed at the right depth.
 
Function should remain as is. The V2 change was to accommodate some ignitions that are extra deep. V1 had a small chance of contact between the shell and ignition. V2 has extra clearance and required a very slight, but very inconvenient geometry change.
Cool. I'll be placing a V1 shell order today. Thanks, Andy.
 
I cant see any debris... this is what it looks like.

I place the nuts in the recess, then flip the shell over on a hard/even surface (granite countertop) and press down on the shell.

The nut “pops” into place, evenly and smoothly.
 

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