Yellow Zink Plating Sources

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Goebeler

Goebeler

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Joined
Apr 9, 2003
Threads
139
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1,423
Location
Libertyville, Il.
I am looking to get a bunch of original cruiser parts plated and would love some leads on companies that offer the service. I was in contact with the Yellow Zink guy in New Jersey and he isnt taking orders now and or in the near future.
I have seen a few threads while searching but haven't seen any sources besides the Yellow Zink guy..

If someone knows the lingo as well to tell local plating folks, that too would be helpful.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Goebs
 
I know you'll think this is out in left field, but Alta Plating in Sacramento, CA has done my zinc plating for years. I just fill up a USPS flat rate box and send it off. Admittedly I live in California, but it's still a six hour round trip from my house. I call them and let then know what's coming, they call me when it arrives and how much it will be, then they call me when it ships. Easy, peezie.
 
reddingcruiser said:
I know you'll think this is out in left field, but Alta Plating in Sacramento, CA has done my zinc plating for years. I just fill up a USPS flat rate box and send it off. Admittedly I live in California, but it's still a six hour round trip from my house. I call them and let then know what's coming, they call me when it arrives and how much it will be, then they call me when it ships. Easy, peezie.
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What is the ballpark cost on a flat rate box of hardware for coating?
 
Just a side note, yellow cadmium is not as bright as yellow zinc plating. Cadmium is by far more durable, but has a dull finish to it. I had all the bits on my 55 cadmium plated and like it a lot, no rusting. If you're just wanting the shiny look go with the cheaper yellow zinc.
 
upperblack said:
What is the ballpark cost on a flat rate box of hardware for coating?
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Depends. Things that can be bulk coated are cheaper than things that need to be "hung". A box full of nuts and bolts can be pretty cheap, $30 - $50. I don't think I've ever paid more than $125 for a box of complicated items or larger parts.
Parts need to be clean, no paint or big goober of grease.
 
This is perfect! I have no problem sending parts off. Always a bit nervous sending my original stuff away but thus far luck has been on my side.
I am looking for the closest finish in color to what was originally done on the cruiser. Mine wont see much weather besides the dream trip out west in the future. Otherwise it is in my garage waiting for sunny days and enjoying the heat in the winter...

Thanks so much!!!
 
reddingcruiser said:
Parts need to be clean, no paint or big goober of grease
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This step is very important if you want good plating. The place I do business with, always wanted the parts bead blasted. I did all the window regulators, inner door parts, etc. and had to be sure all the media was washed out. Bolts could be tumbled.
 
reddingcruiser said:
I know you'll think this is out in left field, but Alta Plating in Sacramento, CA has done my zinc plating for years. I just fill up a USPS flat rate box and send it off. Admittedly I live in California, but it's still a six hour round trip from my house. I call them and let then know what's coming, they call me when it arrives and how much it will be, then they call me when it ships. Easy, peezie.
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You came in just when I need some stuff done. Washers bolts and nuts where is this in Sacto.
Best Skip
 
47coeman said:
You came in just when I need some stuff done. Washers bolts and nuts where is this in Sacto.
Best Skip
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They are at the end of Alpine Ave. off Power Inn Rd., South of Highway 50. I don't have his card with me, but I think the guy you want to talk to is Scott.
 
reddingcruiser said:
They are at the end of Alpine Ave. off Power Inn Rd., South of Highway 50. I don't have his card with me, but I think the guy you want to talk to is Scott.
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They had a name change, they go by the "Metal Finishing Group". I have used them a couple of times. I must stress having clean parts. On one job I had cleaned all the parts but I included some new fasteners that were already plated. Some of those new fasteners I added came back with blotches. Next time I will wire wheel and/or media blast all new parts. On the cost side I believe they have a minimum charge, around $125.00. If you look on my build I had alot of plating done. The first run was enough to give a large USPS flat rate box a run for its money.

Kevin
 
AEROPROPELLER.COM

This is who I used. The website makes them seem very expensive and fancy, but they were really easy to deal with. Some of the parts were blasted and some were rusty and dirty. They took care of cleaning. I think they had a minimum charge of 125.

I made a list of all the parts and had them separated into ziplocs. I took pictures of each labeled bag and its contents. This made it easier to sort and reassemble. They offered to keep the parts sorted, I told them I could do it. Everything made it back, and was nicely packaged. Here is a picture of the sorting on the coffee table!

20160504_181947#3.webp
 
EMAC,
What finish is that called? Looks to be different from, others previously seen.
Kevin,
Just read your thread and loved it. That is definitely the finish I am looking for.
Your picture of the table is awesome. But seeing all the random yellow pieces on the build is the best!

Thanks all!!
Goebs
 
ginmtb said:
I believe gold cadmium plating is the most durable "yellow" plating. I did a quick search and found these in my neck of the woods:

"Electro Plating Specialties - Top Quality, Low Prices, & Fast Work in Metal Finishing!"

Cadmium Plating | Electrodeposited Cadmium | ENS Technology

Whenever I start my 75 I will likely take a load of items to be gold cadmium plated.
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I've used EPS in Hayward for two batches of gold cad. Hardware, brackets, ubolts, etc. with great results. A little pricey for the brackets and bigger items, very competitive for a bucket of bolts though. Will use them again.
 
mdsims said:
I've used EPS in Hayward for two batches of gold cad. Hardware, brackets, ubolts, etc. with great results. A little pricey for the brackets and bigger items, very competitive for a bucket of bolts though. Will use them again.
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Matt, got any examples of what you had done?
 
If ever a picture told a thousand words! Thanks Matt!

Question. The marks on the nuts of the ubolt flip kit, were they pre-existing and sealed in with the plating, or fresh from the reinstall? I have had batches of zinc that were more resiliant, and some that wanted to flake off as soon as you touched them. The stuff I just used on @kevos37 transmission and transfer case was very resilient.
 
Good question. Short answer: due to installation.

tl/dr: The ubolts are from a used 4+ kit I bought second hand. I had them plated. When I went to put the front end all back together, I noticed the ubolts were at least 1/2" too wide to fit back in the plates. I barely got them started, and had to really get on the nuts with the impact to get them to go. I realize now I was fighting the bolt-to-plate friction, not just bad threads (which was an issue too). That is why you see the marred finish. The good news, it's just abrasion, nothing flaked off. My gut is that while the finish is messed a bit, I probably just wore through the gold in a few areas and the cad may still be mostly intact.

(For the rear ubolts, I got smart and used a big c clamp to pull the ubolt closed and into alignment with the plate holes. Those nuts fared much better without the need for the impact.)

;)
 
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