Yeah.... crap...

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Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Threads
136
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1,608
Location
SW MO, NE OK, and NW AR
I now get to drive my truck for the first time in 3weeks! :)

But- I have multiple problems.

Im exhausted. So after i had to tear the motor apart a second tima nd we lost help at work i decided to pay my dad to put it back together.

My father is an amazing mechanic. Cept hes bent on jeep (for the moment) and ive learned the majority of my stuff from him.
HE does his s*** right.

My father did the valve lash- But it still seems LOUD. He swears it should be at .007 warm. Im to lazy to look in the book but thats what his toyota friend said. :meh:

Timing- I set the timing at fsm spec but when i put the vacum advance on it goes way out at idle. like a good 3" to the left.

Leaking oil from the oil pan- used FPIG. Whats up with that? Im going to redo it 2morrow. And im taking an ear full. Only leak on the motor now- and its the only thing i put on this time around :bang:

NO POWER. New NGK 1233 plugs and some BWD wires. Im getting new NGK wires tuesday. Everything is new. I have a feeling this is to do with timing and valve lash?

I had to call wristy to get some help with the carb and vaccum lines. It got kind of annoying but thanks to him Im good to go.
I want to eliminate the majority of them but i cant figure out what i can get rid of. Any pics?

Easiest way to tune the carb?
Im really tired of working. Im getting tired of working on my truck.
If i get it all taken care of by sunday illl get to go wheeling. Yay!

Now- Who can help me? :flipoff2:

Ps- Thank you wristy!

EDIT: Just got done redoing more vaccum lines. No more miss :)
But now it dies after hard deceleration :bang:
And has a little more power. I think i just got used to driving the 8.1 Chevy :flipoff2:
AND my hood latch mech broked so i have to close hanger the damn thing from underneath. Dealer only? :bang:
 
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Well right off hand I hope the intake and exhaust valves are not set the same.
edit:
It's the same as for a 22RE
.008 intake
.012 exhaust
-while hot-

This is what I've got for timing notes -
75-82 is 8 degrees BTDC
83-84 is 5 degrees BTDC
85 22R and 22RE 0 degrees TDC
86-87 22R 0 TDC
22RE and RTE 5 degrees BTDC

Don't know what a typical vacuum advance gets you in degrees......

Carb tuning (idle mixture)
About half way down the page here
22R Carburetor FAQ
 
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Well right off hand I hope the intake and exhaust valves are not set the same.
edit:
It's the same as for a 22RE
.008 intake
.012 exhaust
-while hot-

This is what I've got for timing notes -
75-82 is 8 degrees BTDC
83-84 is 5 degrees BTDC
85 22R and 22RE 0 degrees TDC
86-87 22R 0 TDC
22RE and RTE 5 degrees BTDC

Don't know what a typical vacuum advance gets you in degrees......

Carb tuning (idle mixture)
About half way down the page here
22R Carburetor FAQ

The 22re, any year, is 5°, not zero.

For the valves you can get away with .007" on the intake and it will help with the noise. Spec is .008" as was said. Same with the exhaust, spec is .012" but .011" will help with the noise.
 
The 22re, any year, is 5°, not zero.

Had to double check.......
This pos is wrong
Toyota-pickup-75-87-2wd-4wd-1.jpg

timings.jpg


Checked the 85 FSM and sure enough
timings2.jpg


Changing notes now :mad:

Thanks for the heads up. :cheers:
 
Nippon Denso spark plugs only in my Bondota. Toyota's can be finicky with other plugs from personal experience and I've heard it from others. Maybe one of your little problems, or maybe not. Most likely not, but hey why not share the very little that I know. :meh:
I'm sure someone will whip me for this comment.:deadhorse:

Oh well,

Good Luck :steer:
 
FWIW, IIRC, plug off the vacuum line (golf tee) when setting the timing. Engine has to be up to operating temp.

Also, for any vacuum line reroute or elimination, maybe it's time to add that to the FAQ's, as I remember having to b**ch loudly when fixing my 20R'd Celica.
Someone needs to go ahead and post up a diagram soon for both Smog and Non-Smog (Off-Highway Use also) States.

**Remember to really hold the adjuster when tightening the nut back down on the assembly as you finalize your valve adjustment. As little as a 1/4 turn equates to sometimes easily a couple thousandths.** There used to be a tool available that you'd use, that had it's own locknut, helt things in place and allowed to tighten the lock nut down and keep things in correct adjustment.

Not sure they're made anymore.. IIRC it might have been an Alltrade 648829?? Basically a pliar, with the proper tip on one part, and a split face on the other that went just around the rocker end, that you'd clamp with one hand, and use the wrench with the other hand. It gives you better leverage and positioning so the screwdriver doesn't wind up or slip off as easily.

There's also these that should still be available through a MAC or SnapOn dealer...(pardon the Honda content)
valve-adjustment.jpg
 
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No kidding, one of the first things to be in the FAQ, when describing how to set up to work on your Toyota is to get yourself an empty 25 gallon oil container, take your Haynes and John Muir manuals, some firewood. Throw both manuals, then the wood in, and strike a match.

I have so many customers we had that screwed up stuff trying to do it themselves using these completely mis-informative piles of wasted paper.

Had to double check.......
This pos is wrong
Toyota-pickup-75-87-2wd-4wd-1.jpg

timings.jpg


Checked the 85 FSM and sure enough
timings2.jpg


Changing notes now :mad:

Thanks for the heads up. :cheers:
 
Bingo! FSM FSM FSM!!!!! I keep my haynes and chilton in the truck in hopes that with enough rocking about they will be destroyed... And they cover many years and models which is helpful out on the trail... I keep the FSM at the computer desk.... Cause I spend a lot more time answering questions than I do working on my truck.... (It's a Toyota! :D)
 
Bingo! FSM FSM FSM!!!!! I keep my haynes and chilton in the truck in hopes that with enough rocking about they will be destroyed...

So what you're saying, and I think we all can agree here, is that the Haynes, etc make great Trail Poty wipes? :D :hillbilly:
 
I will agree that the Chilton is trash. But, I also keep an old Haynes in my truck. Not the current issue, but the edition that only went 1979-1985. It's worthwhile to have when I'm in the boonies and don't feel like packing the FSM Bible.
 
back on topic-

My oil leaks went away... But my Front little vent tube on the valve cover (The one that goes into the air cleaner) had come off. When I put it back on the oil leaks started again. What is wrong? Ahhh!

I just ran a hose from it down the side of the block in hopes that itll keep oil of the top and keep the engine from leaking oil. Any ideas on why there is so much pressure?

Valve lash is still a little low on my list. Got a 40 im trying to get back together. ITs been down for about a month now :(.
 
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