This might be sound obvious but have you checked your fuel flow where it enters the carb and ensured you do not have a partially clogged fuel filter - or a second one someplace you did not know about?
Won’t crank after driving…..
- Thread starter sleepycruiser
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sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
- Thread starter
- #42
Two fuel filters….one of the old style glass housing that is new as of 1 year or less…and another one I put closer to the carb to see if fuel was making it up to the carb. I wonder if that could be the issue?? Neither is clogged though…and cold starts start up with no issue.
A partially clogged filter can slow fuel flow and then as the vehicle sits, enough fuel can get through to then allow a start again. Then higher rpms pushing (or pulling) fuel through a filter allows a vehicle to run with little to no issue.
Having had issues similar to yours I would do the following as they are easy:
Check my fuel flow after the regulator but before the carb - This will tell you if you have a filter or regulator issue
When running, spray some carb cleaner all around the base of the carb and see if your RPMs increase - This will tell you if you have a vacuum leak
With the thought all the work you did before was G2G and these checks did not turn up with anything I would be looking a the carb more closely.
And then I would probably fail at any carb work miserably. Carbs are my nemesis.
Paper filter elements when saturated with water will not pass fuel easily. Warm days with cool nights will condense water right out of the air into your gas tank and the station as well. I swap filters out often, let them dry in the sun for a few days and they are good as new. A bottle of yellow fuel fuel dryer every few tankful help prevent build up
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #45
I found this video today and did the same test as he did (heat gun to the coil with attached multimeter set to ohms) and it stayed at 2.7 ohms and went to 3.1 ohms when it was around 200 degrees. I might drive tomorrow and then test it after it is in the ‘no crank’ zone. If that doesn’t give me any results towards a bad coil I’m going to figure out the 3 barb filter. Just need to figure out attaching it to the tank.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #46
A few questions….
1. If I wanted to test out the 3 barb return line….could I cap the return hose until stopped and then uncap the return line and put it in a bucket and then see if it will start after 15 minutes or so?
2. Could I run the return line and tap in on the filler neck behind the front passenger seat instead of the tank? Or should it only go to the tank??
My tank only has one outlet that goes to the glass filter and then pump.
1. If I wanted to test out the 3 barb return line….could I cap the return hose until stopped and then uncap the return line and put it in a bucket and then see if it will start after 15 minutes or so?
2. Could I run the return line and tap in on the filler neck behind the front passenger seat instead of the tank? Or should it only go to the tank??
My tank only has one outlet that goes to the glass filter and then pump.
Good idea checking your coil. When it doesn't start, pull the coil wire or a plug wire, hold it near the head or block and see if you get a good spark. At least you can eliminate ignition.
I have an old pickup with a points ignition. When I first got it, it would start right off and run great. I'd get a block away and it would die. Let it cool for a little while and it started right back up. Replaced the coil over 12 years ago, same points and condenser and still running.
I have an old pickup with a points ignition. When I first got it, it would start right off and run great. I'd get a block away and it would die. Let it cool for a little while and it started right back up. Replaced the coil over 12 years ago, same points and condenser and still running.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #50
Yep, I missed that
sleepycruiser
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- #51
Do you have any pics of what that could look like like?? TY!
no photos. You have large filler hose for the tank and alongside it is a smaller vent hose, 1/2", possibly 5/8".
Cut that hose in a convenient ( accessible ) spot and splice in one of these, depending on which vent hose you have. Run the return to the small barb
Cut that hose in a convenient ( accessible ) spot and splice in one of these, depending on which vent hose you have. Run the return to the small barb
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #53
Ah, that makes sense. I’ll check this evening and see what I’ve got. Thanks!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #54
Got everything ordered:
-1/2” fuel line for the vent pipes on the tank and fill pipe (where I will tap in)
-filter with return
-1/4” fuel line for return nipple (20 feet)
-3 way barb with 1/2” on two sides and 1/4” on one
-hose clamps
Hopefully this works!
-1/2” fuel line for the vent pipes on the tank and fill pipe (where I will tap in)
-filter with return
-1/4” fuel line for return nipple (20 feet)
-3 way barb with 1/2” on two sides and 1/4” on one
-hose clamps
Hopefully this works!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #55
Anything I should be aware of before a 30 minute drive?
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #56
It cranked on the first try from a cold start today…no pedal pumping.
After driving about 25 minutes, then letting it sit for about 15 minutes it took about 15 seconds to get it cranked (instead of 20 minutes). Then I turned it off and waited another 10 and it started after a few turnovers…about 5 seconds. So maybe this was the problem, but I’ll keep the thread updated.
Idling at a red light looked good. Coolant temps good. I might get some fuel line insulation for all gas lines as well.
After driving about 25 minutes, then letting it sit for about 15 minutes it took about 15 seconds to get it cranked (instead of 20 minutes). Then I turned it off and waited another 10 and it started after a few turnovers…about 5 seconds. So maybe this was the problem, but I’ll keep the thread updated.
Idling at a red light looked good. Coolant temps good. I might get some fuel line insulation for all gas lines as well.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #57
I have to think about my starting procedure, I just do it w/o thinking. If I just shut it down within a few minutes, I just crank it. After about 30 min, I give it one pump, then start cranking, then start adding a bit of pedal until the air/fuel mixture works.
Good luck!
Good luck!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
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- #59
Appreciate all of the info and help! I didn’t push the pedal when starting it after warm so that actually might start it right up!
I've got a factory carb and a working accelerator pump. You have different air density, fuel, and carb jets than I do. Different setups might like slightly different techniques. You'll figure out yours if everything is properly sorted. The key is to get it starting consistently. Hopefully, you're on the right track!
Also, you might think about "pure" gas (or rec fuel, as it is sometimes called) until you know you're fixed. That's all I run anyhow...
Also, you might think about "pure" gas (or rec fuel, as it is sometimes called) until you know you're fixed. That's all I run anyhow...