Wits End Turbo Owners (10 Viewers)

CJK

Joined
Mar 20, 2018
Messages
33
Location
San Jose, CA
I’m now the proud owner of a turbo kit courtesy of @MKS 😊😊

I’d like to install in the next month, but didn’t get instructions from PO. Knowing the thoroughness of Joey’s efforts, I figure there was some documentation created.

Does anyone have a digital copy they would send me?
 
Joined
Oct 28, 2015
Messages
742
Location
CA
I’m now the proud owner of a turbo kit courtesy of @MKS 😊😊

I’d like to install in the next month, but didn’t get instructions from PO. Knowing the thoroughness of Joey’s efforts, I figure there was some documentation created.

Does anyone have a digital copy they would send me?

I have a really early DRAFT version of the install instructions. Joey had repeatedly improved on the documentation install guide as time has progressed. Best to contact Joey directly to receive the latest install guide.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
715
Location
Denver, NC
Been working on my install for the last couple of days... Have this nagging feeling that, "while I'm in there", I should go ahead and do the head gasket. I'm at just over 90K miles so most likely the OEM gasket still in there. What do you guys think - run it till the head gasket goes or pull the head?

I'm in the 7th inning stretch already - pan drilled, all the vacuum plumbing done, cat off, J-Pipe in, turbo just sitting on top for now. Because we all like pics!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
105
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Been working on my install for the last couple of days... Have this nagging feeling that, "while I'm in there", I should go ahead and do the head gasket. I'm at just over 90K miles so most likely the OEM gasket still in there. What do you guys think - run it till the head gasket goes or pull the head?

I'm in the 7th inning stretch already - pan drilled, all the vacuum plumbing done, cat off, J-Pipe in, turbo just sitting on top for now. Because we all like pics!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
I have 172k on my motor. Did not do the head gasket. I did strip it down to the long block, inspected the backside of the valves through the ports, had the injectors serviced, and refreshed all the gaskets. I also replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump in the tank, the knock sensors, fuel pressure regulator, serviced the throttle body. I also second guessed doing the head gasket. The valves looked find, they did not show leaking valve guide seals, the compression and leak down tests did not show any issue, so, I rolled with it. No problems so far, but will let everyone know if I do. Time will tell.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
715
Location
Denver, NC
I have 172k on my motor. Did not do the head gasket. I did strip it down to the long block, inspected the backside of the valves through the ports, had the injectors serviced, and refreshed all the gaskets. I also replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump in the tank, the knock sensors, fuel pressure regulator, serviced the throttle body. I also second guessed doing the head gasket. The valves looked find, they did not show leaking valve guide seals, the compression and leak down tests did not show any issue, so, I rolled with it. No problems so far, but will let everyone know if I do. Time will tell.
I did most everything you've mentioned except for the gaskets and fuel pump. Fingers crossed I'm good to go!
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
8,670
Been working on my install for the last couple of days... Have this nagging feeling that, "while I'm in there", I should go ahead and do the head gasket. I'm at just over 90K miles so most likely the OEM gasket still in there. What do you guys think - run it till the head gasket goes or pull the head?

I'm in the 7th inning stretch already - pan drilled, all the vacuum plumbing done, cat off, J-Pipe in, turbo just sitting on top for now. Because we all like pics!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
I would pull the head since it's a known issue. One less thing to worry about. I would do valve seals too. If you blow a head gasket and get Coolant in the oil it can kill the bottom end. If your a ways from civilization when it happens that would kill the bottom end and add 6k minimum to repairs. Thats too expensive of a risk. I would think the fuel pump would be fine for quite a while.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
715
Location
Denver, NC
I notice that the wastegate comes with springs in the box but I didn't see anything in the instructions about opening up the wastegate and fitting them. Are the correct springs pre-installed or do I need to add these?
 

NLXTACY

Wits' End
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Dec 7, 2007
Messages
26,831
Location
West Hills, CA
I notice that the wastegate comes with springs in the box but I didn't see anything in the instructions about opening up the wastegate and fitting them. Are the correct springs pre-installed or do I need to add these?

the wastegate is empty. Open the top cap and you will see two circular springs seats. That is where BOTH the springs go. Make sure you cap off the vacuum holes you aren’t going to use. The coolant holes you can leave open or cap if you want.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
715
Location
Denver, NC
@NLXTACY Out of curiosity, the tial chart shows the green & red spring combo at 10psi and I know we're going for 7psi - what am I misreading the chart or is there something else I'm missing?
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Messages
138
and what about these ports - are they left open? Thanks all!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
if you are not using a boost controller the top vents you are pointing at vent to the atmosphere, you can plug the one on the left and put a barbed fitting with a small length of vacuum line vented to atmosphere or just open as it sits, but i like the idea of a length of line to allow debris from getting in easily.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
715
Location
Denver, NC
Couple more RTH questions if I may:

1) How tight do the v-clamps need to be?
2) Turbo to J-Pipe flange nuts - how tight? I snugged them good with a longer 3/8" ratchet - that good enough?
3) Nuts on the cold side of the turbo that have blue paint pen marks - I had to loosen them to clock the cold output side of the turbo - the felt like they had loctite on them from the factory - can I just retighten them or do I need to pull them and put new thread locker?

Thanks!
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
715
Location
Denver, NC
POST INSTALL EDIT / PSA - This misalignment was my fault and had nothing to do with the downpipe manufacturing / fitment... I installed the 4x4 Labs bumper that required cutting the exhaust short in the rear - this led to deleting a hanger which allowed the entire exhaust system to rotate outboard and down which caused the misalignment.

My downpipe is snugged up with the v-band clamp and it meets the gate nicely. However, the lower part of the downpipe is a full pipe off of meeting the cat tube. I've checked and everything from the cat back is in it's original location (isolators are in tact, muffler solidly on the hanger). What did I do wrong?

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
105
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Even more RTH requested - Paging @NLXTACY if time permits or anyone else!

My downpipe is snugged up with the v-band clamp and it meets the gate nicely. However, the lower part of the downpipe is a full pipe off of meeting the cat tube. I've checked and everything from the cat back is in it's original location (isolators are in tact, muffler solidly on the hanger). What did I do wrong?

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
I had something similar happen, just not a full pipe off. I went back and loosened the turbo mounting bolts so that could rotate in the clearance holes. I also left the compressor connections off, so that they did not put torque on the turbo. I did to fully tighten the V-band clamp, leaving it snug, so rotation can happen at that point. Also, leave the wastegate off, so it does not torque the downpipe. And, do not attach the downpipe to the bell housing. With the flex joint in the downpipe, you can get it to point in the correct direction. I then had to cut the pipe at an angle, adjust with a die grinder, to get it tacked in place. I recall that I loosened some of the hangers on the cats also, letting everything flex and float to get things to line up.

When you go back in and tighten things, I snugged the turbo mount bolts, then tightened the v-band, going back and forth. The wastegate was a bit of a bear to tighten back up, as the flex joint on that is a bit stiff. Last was the bell housing attachment.
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
105
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Couple more RTH questions if I may:

1) How tight do the v-clamps need to be?
2) Turbo to J-Pipe flange nuts - how tight? I snugged them good with a longer 3/8" ratchet - that good enough?
3) Nuts on the cold side of the turbo that have blue paint pen marks - I had to loosen them to clock the cold output side of the turbo - the felt like they had loctite on them from the factory - can I just retighten them or do I need to pull them and put new thread locker?

Thanks!
See my other post, leave the v band clamps loose enough to rotate on the turbo outlet. Loosen the flange nuts also.

For the compressor, that patch lock on there is multi use. You do not need to add more unless you take the bolts on and off multiple times.

Mike
 

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