The drip rail and the fiberglass part should be the same color.
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wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #102
As previously stated...I DO NOT believe cygnus white is what the 1979 top color is. The underside of my rail (protected from sun) is certainly
not cygnus and I believe it will eventually be found to be in the 031 range. @MOTOV8R is going to send along a can of 033 from dupli-color to
test against that paint code. In the meantime i got a scan of my rail underside and a quart mixed up in omni that I will shoot on Thursday (pic of can below).
Which brings me also to the other items I'm using in this top refresh.
1. Using medium build SEM to seal the windshield visor
2. Using SEM self leveling to cover the rivets.
3. Using DEI Advanced Thermal and Acoustic Coating
Item (3) is a relatively new product from DEI to get into the "reptile skin" coating arena and "claims" to cover heat and sound.
That claim plus 5$ may get me a cup of coffee....but the ATAC price was right (cheaper) and the tech sounded plausible. It
sprayed nicely and at least looks very similar to the way the other "skins" spray on.
not cygnus and I believe it will eventually be found to be in the 031 range. @MOTOV8R is going to send along a can of 033 from dupli-color to
test against that paint code. In the meantime i got a scan of my rail underside and a quart mixed up in omni that I will shoot on Thursday (pic of can below).
Which brings me also to the other items I'm using in this top refresh.
1. Using medium build SEM to seal the windshield visor
2. Using SEM self leveling to cover the rivets.
3. Using DEI Advanced Thermal and Acoustic Coating
Item (3) is a relatively new product from DEI to get into the "reptile skin" coating arena and "claims" to cover heat and sound.
That claim plus 5$ may get me a cup of coffee....but the ATAC price was right (cheaper) and the tech sounded plausible. It
sprayed nicely and at least looks very similar to the way the other "skins" spray on.
That looks great
wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #105
Definitely in the creamy category of colors. I think it looks fantastic and will be close to original. Much respect for anyone
else doing drip rails and roofs.....they're super tiresome. I'm hoping (fingers crossed) that this is the last of the body work and paint. I think I'm over the final line.
else doing drip rails and roofs.....they're super tiresome. I'm hoping (fingers crossed) that this is the last of the body work and paint. I think I'm over the final line.
MAR FJ40
SILVER Star
Looks great!
Looking great Wimberosa.
wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #108
I believe we have some decent data here for others painting roof tops and drip rails in the 79+ years. @MOTOV8R sent me a can of dupli-color 033 that was purchased awhile ago. We now have a color comparison of cygnus (012) from cruiser corps, white (033) from dupli-color, and what I have strong suspicions is white (031). My roof rail on the non-sun (protected) side appears to be slightly more yellow than the dupli-color 033 which puts it in the possible range of 031.
So...I strongly suspect that roofs in 1979 are 031. This may in fact be just a rediscovery of known data because google AI is making the claim that 80+ roofs are 033. Google is not giving me good data for why it thinks or is hallucinating that. 031 and 033 are in the realistic ranges for roofs in these years. My paint scan and ppg formula for what I think is 031 is in my prior post.
Here are the paint comparisons. On the left is cygnus (012). In the middle top and right is oem white (031?) from a 1979 roof rail. In the middle bottom is white (033) from dupli-color. 033 is just slightly greyer and less yellow than 031
So...I strongly suspect that roofs in 1979 are 031. This may in fact be just a rediscovery of known data because google AI is making the claim that 80+ roofs are 033. Google is not giving me good data for why it thinks or is hallucinating that. 031 and 033 are in the realistic ranges for roofs in these years. My paint scan and ppg formula for what I think is 031 is in my prior post.
Here are the paint comparisons. On the left is cygnus (012). In the middle top and right is oem white (031?) from a 1979 roof rail. In the middle bottom is white (033) from dupli-color. 033 is just slightly greyer and less yellow than 031
RevISK
SILVER Star
A good way to “white balance” colors in an image is to include a known white (printer paper folded in half for instance) or an 18% grey card (not as likely). You would “tap” on the white card in the image that included all of the above samples, then take the picture.
There are so many variables involved including what color shirt you are wearing and even what time of year it is and the altitude you are shooting at.
This is great info you are posting and I hope I am being helpful.
wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #110
Time for a couple of status updates.... I mentioned awhile back that my tuffy console was tight against
the shift cane and I was going to bend the cane. I decided to go an alternate route instead. When I went
to fully mount the console the pre-drilled holes did not quite line up. I would have had to wallow them out
with a drill bit. So I decided if I was going to break the drill out...I'd just go ahead and drill brand new holes
allowing me to move the console backwards (and away from the shift cane). This worked out well for me
since I'm 6' and keep the seat all the way back. A movement of 3" backward allows the armrest to be
positioned better as well.
Here are pics of how everything lines up. The shift is in the bottom "second gear" position, so I now have plenty of
room. This probably also works because I'm not running a rear heater.
the shift cane and I was going to bend the cane. I decided to go an alternate route instead. When I went
to fully mount the console the pre-drilled holes did not quite line up. I would have had to wallow them out
with a drill bit. So I decided if I was going to break the drill out...I'd just go ahead and drill brand new holes
allowing me to move the console backwards (and away from the shift cane). This worked out well for me
since I'm 6' and keep the seat all the way back. A movement of 3" backward allows the armrest to be
positioned better as well.
Here are pics of how everything lines up. The shift is in the bottom "second gear" position, so I now have plenty of
room. This probably also works because I'm not running a rear heater.
Exactly what I did also; drilled new holes to move the console back but still use the captured nuts from the stock plastic console. I don't have a rear heater either.
wimberosa
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- Thread starter
- #112
I've now finished the roof and front bezel. The paint (investigation outlined in prior posts) looks great. Which brings me to a few other items to discuss in regard to successes and failures.
- Firstly the weatherstripping around the top perimeter and windshield upper provided by city racer @Racer65 is spot on exceptional I used a bit of glue on the windshield weatherstrip left and right sides to "tie it down" while I put everything together. All of it is great.
- Someone on here suggested using butyl tape in that very small gap at the front corners between these weatherstrip pieces...and that's a great solution to the small air gap there.
- I have some positive things to say about cruiser corps headliner @Cruiser Corps and potentially just some user-error issues. First of all I really appreciate it being rolled and shipped. Pretty much removes all the issues with creases. The quality is great and plenty of extra material to ensure proper coverage. I however could not properly utilize the rear corner seams that were sewn in. I'd expected to be cutting those edges and gap'ing them together as I'd seen other do. With this headliner and the sewn corners I could not for the life of me make it lay in the corner in a reasonable manner. I eventually just cut the threads of the seam out and glued it in. This left a gap that I then had to cut a triangle for. Personally would have rather had 1 glued seam instead of this triangle....but again....not sure if this is user error on my part and or what it takes to be successful with these seams.
- The CCOT drip rail worked well. Plan on fiddling with it at least ten times on and off though to get it welded together properly.
- I ended up using the air-craft rivet tool to connect the fiber glass to the rail. I love tools....never can have enough tools.
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wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #113
Here's how to set your windshield wiper park position and wipers in a few simple steps.
Works for 1979+ and probably slightly earlier.
Firstly, I had to do this because I completely disconnected my wiper motor for painting and
refurb. I was relatively positive the wiper motor, switch, and arm mechanism were in working order
before these steps. If your electrical or arm mechanics are problematic then go fix those first before
doing the following. You may want to examine @Coolerman electrical or mechanical schematics at
wiper electrical science.
Slight background in case this isn't obvious. Your wiper motor only rotates in one direction. The wiper
arms are able to move in both directions because the wiper arm mechanism (hidden in your lower windshield)
has a pivot point in it. The motor merely turns and forces the interior wiper arm mechanism to pivot around this point.
Note that the parked position for the wipers in the USA 1979 spec FJ40 is at the bottom of the windshield.
Here are the steps:
Works for 1979+ and probably slightly earlier.
Firstly, I had to do this because I completely disconnected my wiper motor for painting and
refurb. I was relatively positive the wiper motor, switch, and arm mechanism were in working order
before these steps. If your electrical or arm mechanics are problematic then go fix those first before
doing the following. You may want to examine @Coolerman electrical or mechanical schematics at
wiper electrical science.
Slight background in case this isn't obvious. Your wiper motor only rotates in one direction. The wiper
arms are able to move in both directions because the wiper arm mechanism (hidden in your lower windshield)
has a pivot point in it. The motor merely turns and forces the interior wiper arm mechanism to pivot around this point.
Note that the parked position for the wipers in the USA 1979 spec FJ40 is at the bottom of the windshield.
Here are the steps:
- Remove your wiper motor from beneath the wiper motor cover. You will need to disconnect the interior arm mechanism from the back of the motor but we'll leave the electrical hooked up to the motor. The back of the motor will have a small (1 to 2 inch) rotating flange with one end connected via nut to a spline on the motor shaft. The other end will be connected (via a metal ball and plastic socket) to a long rod/arm extending into the lower windshield well. The best way to disconnect the mechanical for the following steps is to pop the metal ball out of the plastic socket. If you can only remove the nut from the motor shaft then its still possible to follow these steps (albeit with more difficulty).
- Turn the switch key on and wiper knob and run your motor for a few seconds....then shut it off. The motor will continue moving until it reaches it's "parked" position.
- We'll now set the interior wiper arm mechanicals to the parked position also. The interior wiper arm mechanism, as previously noted, pivots around a point inside the windshield, allowing travel of the arm to move left...then right....then left again as it moves through the pivot. In order to have the wiper arm be in the "down" or "parked" position, the interior wiper mechanicals should be in farthest position toward the passenger side. In the following photo I've physically pulled the interior arm to its furthest extent toward the passenger side (left in this photo). I've also shown the little motor flange still connected to the interior arms to demonstrate what position we'll eventually connect to the motor shaft.
- Now for the interior arm to be in this position it should hopefully be obvious that the little flange that we'll connect to the motor needs to be fully extended in this position as well. So now we'll take that little flange and connect it to the motor shaft and tighten it down with the nut. Here's what the "parked" position looks like when its connected to the motor. When the motor is reinstalled this flange position points to the passenger side of the vehicle.
- Pop the ball connected to this little flange back into the plastic socket on the interior wiper arm and reinstall the motor into its position on the windshield. Leave the cover off in case the following steps aren't perfect and you have to readjust.
- Take one wiper blade arm and install it on the windshield exterior shaft in the down / "parked" position.
- Now run the wipers again and note the following important tenet. If the wiper moves down first instead of immediately up then you are NOT in the parked position for the motor + flange + interior arm. Go back to step 1 and make minor adjustments. If the wiper moves immediately upward and when you shut the switch off it returns to the down / parked position then you are all good to go.
- Install the other wiper mirroring the position of your now parked wiper.
wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #114
Been trying to pull it back to "road worthy" and checking the brakes proved a rebuild was in
order. Been awhile without brake fluid in the calipers and two were stuck. A set of rear
wheel cylinders from city racer and a rebuild kit from Mr. T for the front discs and we're back
in order.
The disc cylinder kit 04479-30031 provides 8 dust boots and 8 internal cylinder gaskets, which
is sufficient to complete both sides of the front disc brakes. A dental pick is quite useful for cleaning
out and manipulating a rebuild of the gaskets on the disc brake cylinders. Photo also points out proper
bottom placement of the "single" ant-rattle spring on the disc brakes. Gave it a shot of epoxy caliper
paint after running it through multiple hours of ultrasonic cleaning.
order. Been awhile without brake fluid in the calipers and two were stuck. A set of rear
wheel cylinders from city racer and a rebuild kit from Mr. T for the front discs and we're back
in order.
The disc cylinder kit 04479-30031 provides 8 dust boots and 8 internal cylinder gaskets, which
is sufficient to complete both sides of the front disc brakes. A dental pick is quite useful for cleaning
out and manipulating a rebuild of the gaskets on the disc brake cylinders. Photo also points out proper
bottom placement of the "single" ant-rattle spring on the disc brakes. Gave it a shot of epoxy caliper
paint after running it through multiple hours of ultrasonic cleaning.
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wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #115
Her first run under her own power. A few problems.
- She won't run without the choke slightly out...and I'm still thinking vacuum leak due to the re-smog. Using the "tube to ear" method I'm not finding it. I'm thinking of building a smoke can and feeding to the air intake and seeing if that will allow me to see the issue. Of course its never run at altitude and we're at 6800' so maybe it just needs some adjustment. Any words of wisdom from fellow mudders?
- Both the clutch (new clutch cylinder) and brakes (new booster) seem a little weak. I'm going to bleed them again and see if there is some linkage on the clutch that I've missed adjusting.
- She's not limber yet. 2 to 4 wheel is sticky.
- Still getting some burn-off on exhaust. The titanium fabric wrap I put near the rear wheel on the exhaust in particular is a tad worrisome. edit: Apparently this is a "thing" for the first couple of hours as the wrap "cures" off excess binders/wax.
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wimberosa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #116
I've now got it idling nicely and playing fairly well. I think its fair to say that if you've struggled with vacuum leaks and you finally achieve nice steady vacuum on a port off your manifold...then you've probably defeated your leak problem.
My details: 7000' elevation, 15 degrees BTDC, 690 RPM, 15.9 in. Hg vacuum.
After I got the dizzy vacuum advance rebuild done (see below) I've now done my initial timing.
Note that I convinced myself its really best for me at high elevation to time WITH the HAC advance on because the HAC will generally be on all the time until the truck is driven below ~3000'. My HAC vacuum advance jumps 4 degrees immediately when its connected and I saw no reason to dial in a base timing only to immediately jump 4 degrees when I connect it. The FSM says to disconnect both.
I settled in at 15 degrees BTDC and 690 rpm as my happy medium for now. I've got to register this thing in colorado and get some insurance before I can really put it under road stress. Around 15 degrees is where I first hit my best vacuum at 15.9 in. Hg. This was the second timing after a first timing, then lean drop carb adjustment, then the second timing dialing to 15 degrees.
When I had the valve cover off (for adjusting my valve / rocker arm clearance) I noticed that my oiling was erratic. Unfortunately its still somewhat erratic and I "think" its because one of my rockers nearer the input oil port (middle of rocker arm shaft) has a bit more slack in the bushing...allowing easier oil flow there and thus lessening flow to other ports.
After taking everything apart and sending everything through multiple sonic baths, I believe its fair to say that carbon buildup restricting oil flow is probably a constant problem in the rocker arm shaft. Both ends of the rocker arm shaft seem like a dead end cul-de-sac for carbon buildup. My rockers and shaft are now clean of carbon.
I have a few comments if you clean your rocker arms.
Other side "quest" data follows....
My "rebuild" of a dizzy vacuum advance:
My yazaki wire discovery and weak igniter:
Where to stop on timing advance:
My details: 7000' elevation, 15 degrees BTDC, 690 RPM, 15.9 in. Hg vacuum.
After I got the dizzy vacuum advance rebuild done (see below) I've now done my initial timing.
Note that I convinced myself its really best for me at high elevation to time WITH the HAC advance on because the HAC will generally be on all the time until the truck is driven below ~3000'. My HAC vacuum advance jumps 4 degrees immediately when its connected and I saw no reason to dial in a base timing only to immediately jump 4 degrees when I connect it. The FSM says to disconnect both.
I settled in at 15 degrees BTDC and 690 rpm as my happy medium for now. I've got to register this thing in colorado and get some insurance before I can really put it under road stress. Around 15 degrees is where I first hit my best vacuum at 15.9 in. Hg. This was the second timing after a first timing, then lean drop carb adjustment, then the second timing dialing to 15 degrees.
When I had the valve cover off (for adjusting my valve / rocker arm clearance) I noticed that my oiling was erratic. Unfortunately its still somewhat erratic and I "think" its because one of my rockers nearer the input oil port (middle of rocker arm shaft) has a bit more slack in the bushing...allowing easier oil flow there and thus lessening flow to other ports.
After taking everything apart and sending everything through multiple sonic baths, I believe its fair to say that carbon buildup restricting oil flow is probably a constant problem in the rocker arm shaft. Both ends of the rocker arm shaft seem like a dead end cul-de-sac for carbon buildup. My rockers and shaft are now clean of carbon.
I have a few comments if you clean your rocker arms.
- Its easy to flip the rocker arm shaft and have the input port at the wrong spot. The input (larger) port on that shaft should be pointed downward at the fourth (from front) pedestal. That pedestal is where the input oil comes up from the oil pump. Make SURE you align this correctly.
- The grooves in the bushings next to the shafts output ports are actually important. Make sure you clean those also when getting rid of the carbon. The small grooves are there to improve the flow to the front and back of the rocker arm weep holes.
- Its actually pretty dead easy to take the rocker arm off and clean everything up. You'll need to jam two nuts together to remove the valve cover connector "high" bolts. When you take the pins off the rocker arm shaft, just line everything up on your work bench in the proper order that it will need to be reassembled (the rocker arms vary in their skew orientation). Recheck the rocker arm orientation before re-assembly (see 1).
Other side "quest" data follows....
My "rebuild" of a dizzy vacuum advance:
My yazaki wire discovery and weak igniter:
Where to stop on timing advance:
wimberosa
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- Thread starter
- #117
Here she is "dialed" in as best I can do....initial timing....lean drop....second timing. The brakes are feeling much more firm as well since i bled them yet again....this time with a vacuum pump instead of the "2-man pump the brakes method". Hood goes on next and she's almost ready for the road.
Very Nice!
Looks and sounds fantastic wimberosa - well done. Wish I where there to see it live.
Thank you for posting the detail of your project. So much of what you are doing is the same I am / will be going through with my 1982. Keep up the good work!