Build Wimberosa's build: Loretta dances again

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

RevISK said:
I may have missed it but did you adjust the valves?
Click to expand...
I adjusted the valves per the cold engine data suggested in the thread below. I know those numbers are not FSM, but have been struggling trying to get this back on the road in as quick a manner as possible. Today that happened. She made it to the DMV...got a new title and plates are on order. So I can put it on the road....and immediately start finding more issues. ;-(
  1. I'm getting a minor squeal around the clutch that stops when I push it in. i'm going to look at my clutch pedal height tomorrow.
  2. My turn signals don't shut off as I complete a turn. Probably will live with it for awhile before I take the wheel apart again
  3. My carb cooler is running WHEN the engine is running as opposed to after shut off. i'll probably take the relay off tomorrow and bench test it.
Its a battle I'll always be working on but I'm really hoping it starts to slow down regarding stuff needing fixing....

g-man

Post in thread 'How to adjust your 2f valve clearance'

I like this chart I found on MUd. If your are the owner of this stand up and take a bow!
valve adjust table.webp
  • Like
 
A “go, no go” set of feeler gauges are great for doing either hot or cold adjustments on your valves. I believe they equate to the numbers you’ve listed.
 
wimberosa said:
I'm getting a minor squeal around the clutch that stops when I push it in. i'm going to look at my clutch pedal height tomorrow
Click to expand...
You might take the clutch bell housing inspection cover off so you can confirm “some” space between the throwout bearing and the clutch cover finders. That (bearing riding lightly on the clutch fingers) is usually the issue when there is a squeal only when not depressing the clutch.
 
rlong said:
You might take the clutch bell housing inspection cover off so you can confirm “some” space between the throwout bearing and the clutch cover finders. That (bearing riding lightly on the clutch fingers) is usually the issue when there is a squeal only when not depressing the clutch.
Click to expand...
I had a similar issue and it was that the upper throwout bearing retention spring had somehow not seated all the way.
 
Yep....I'm a little confused about where the adjustment here is. Is it only on that nut+lock-nut on the slave cylinder of the fork? I get the
squeal when the throw out bearing is riding just up against the fingers. Its the metal on metal squeak of the bearing against those fingers. If I manually pull the bearing back in the direction of the arrow and turn the bearing then no squeak.

I loosened that slave adjustment but the bearing doesn't automatically move back. I had to force it back by hand to see that it turns freely with no squeak. Maybe the spinning force moves it back and i just need a bit of slack at the slave?
IMG_4455.webp
 
wimberosa said:
Yep....I'm a little confused about where the adjustment here is. Is it only on that nut+lock-nut on the slave cylinder of the fork? I get the
squeal when the throw out bearing is riding just up against the fingers. Its the metal on metal squeak of the bearing against those fingers. If I manually pull the bearing back in the direction of the arrow and turn the bearing then no squeak.

I loosened that slave adjustment but the bearing doesn't automatically move back. I had to force it back by hand to see that it turns freely with no squeak. Maybe the spinning force moves it back and i just need a bit of slack at the slave?
View attachment 4092391
Click to expand...
You are missing the retention spring. There should also be one on the other side.
 
I think its thick crud grease, maybe a stiffer return spring would help. Added could be binding some due to missing spring?
 
Here is my lower one, there is one on the opposite side. This is certainly causing the TO bearing to not retract with the fork.

1771951220624.webp
 
wimberosa said:
Confirmed. Both sides missing.

Have them on order. I can definitely get one side in....hopefully the other one will slip in given my hand size and available space.
Click to expand...
It’s possible to get the top one in, you just have to do it blindly by feel. I actually did the bottom one a couple times with my eyes averted to get a feel for it then did the top one.

It had somehow dislodged during initial install of everything but fortunately was hanging in up there.
 
You should have return spring on the end of the fork where the slave rod attaches. It should be a more robust spring which pushes the slave piston back into it's bore. It keeps the t/o bearing away from the pressure plate and allows for proper adjustment.
 
Does anyone know if that fork can come out by itself? Considering disconnecting it from the slave and
there seems to be some retaining clip on the backside that can be splayed and perhaps it could come out.
I'm thinking if I had that out then I could position the throw out bearing retainer clip easier on the top side and then just
push the clip down for final snap in.

Edit: The answer is yes
 
Last edited:
You might be able to get the fork out , but it's probably not helpfull. The t/o bearing is not removable because its on the trans bearing retainer. I've replaced the clip b4 and it isn't that difficult. You just need to slide the clip into the hole on the fork and it will clip into the bearing hub with a little finesse .
 
Yes. If you just take the fork out you can spin the whole throwout bearing around and clean out the holes where the retainer spring goes. Seems like I can position the springs in there when I get them. The holes were all blocked and not readily seen....so those clips have been gone for some time.
1771967155167.webp
 
Pulling the clutch fork was helpful for cleaning out the holes where those fork-throwout-bearing clips sit in...but wasn't that helpful for inserting the clips. Its not the easiest chore with big hands but doable. Burned about an hour to get it done. A long flat head screwdriver inserted through the bell housing inspection port on the driver side was helpful for gaining enough leverage with my fingers to get it put in place. The squeal from this is now gone! Many thanks to @RevISK and @pb4ugo for helping diagnose.

Regarding my blinkers not turning off.... The two pins on the underside of the steering wheel were completely missing. I went to the hardware store and got a couple tension / spring pins that would fit and fiddled with cutting them down to the right length and my blinkers now work.

Next issue I'm contemplating. While I've got my engine purring like a kitten...my drive train is producing too much whine. Yes...I know it's always whined some....but I'm thinking when I put new springs with a 2.5" lift on it that it changed my angle too much between the drive shaft and the rear differential. Has anyone had success with skewing the angle of the rear axle a bit to get this lined up better...or other thoughts on too much whine?
 
wimberosa said:
Pulling the clutch fork was helpful for cleaning out the holes where those fork-throwout-bearing clips sit in...but wasn't that helpful for inserting the clips. Its not the easiest chore with big hands but doable. Burned about an hour to get it done. A long flat head screwdriver inserted through the bell housing inspection port on the driver side was helpful for gaining enough leverage with my fingers to get it put in place. The squeal from this is now gone! Many thanks to @RevISK and @pb4ugo for helping diagnose.

Regarding my blinkers not turning off.... The two pins on the underside of the steering wheel were completely missing. I went to the hardware store and got a couple tension / spring pins that would fit and fiddled with cutting them down to the right length and my blinkers now work.

Next issue I'm contemplating. While I've got my engine purring like a kitten...my drive train is producing too much whine. Yes...I know it's always whined some....but I'm thinking when I put new springs with a 2.5" lift on it that it changed my angle too much between the drive shaft and the rear differential. Has anyone had success with skewing the angle of the rear axle a bit to get this lined up better...or other thoughts on too much whine?
Click to expand...
Super glad to be of assistance, I know it was driving me bonkers when it was happening to my truck.
 
wimberosa said:
Pulling the clutch fork was helpful for cleaning out the holes where those fork-throwout-bearing clips sit in...but wasn't that helpful for inserting the clips. Its not the easiest chore with big hands but doable. Burned about an hour to get it done. A long flat head screwdriver inserted through the bell housing inspection port on the driver side was helpful for gaining enough leverage with my fingers to get it put in place. The squeal from this is now gone! Many thanks to @RevISK and @pb4ugo for helping diagnose.

Regarding my blinkers not turning off.... The two pins on the underside of the steering wheel were completely missing. I went to the hardware store and got a couple tension / spring pins that would fit and fiddled with cutting them down to the right length and my blinkers now work.

Next issue I'm contemplating. While I've got my engine purring like a kitten...my drive train is producing too much whine. Yes...I know it's always whined some....but I'm thinking when I put new springs with a 2.5" lift on it that it changed my angle too much between the drive shaft and the rear differential. Has anyone had success with skewing the angle of the rear axle a bit to get this lined up better...or other thoughts on too much whine?
Click to expand...


Park on level ground, get a cheap angle finder and measure the trans output flange and the diff's pinion flange angle. You want the driveline and pinion to be parallel to each other. You can adjust the rear diff with caster shims. For further info check out Tom Woods website. They have good tutorials on the subject.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom