What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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So. My girlfriend had a headache, a box was delivered by UPS and sitting at my gate, and we had a 35% chance of rain. Those things added up to... an excuse to take off work!! 
Naturally, after feeding a Tylenol to my girlfriend, I went straight to work on the FJ40. I quickly got the doors on, but here is the rest of the story. I bought the @SMG door pins a while back, and it was time to use them. I followed the directions in his post about cleaning the hinges with a drill bit etc. I assembled the passenger side first with some high quality spay lube, Zep 45, but it was more difficult than I expected, a little more hammer required than I would have thought. Then for the driver side I used a Q-tip to apply assembly lube to all surfaces. That was the trick! After assembly the passenger side was immediately rock solid, but the driver side still had a rattle. Then I discovered that the driver side wasn't actually closing all the way... The latch seems to have 2 stages of closing and it was only getting half way. Then, I slammed the door and voila! The latch closed all the way and it was super tight! So now I guess I have to sleep some tonight so that I can try driving the 40 to work tomorrow to see how the doors work out. I just have to remember to slam the door in the morning... I bet there is an adjustment for that.
Here's a sneak peek of what is coming up for my weekend project... Here's a hint.... SummitRacing had a great sale going on this week.
Naturally, after feeding a Tylenol to my girlfriend, I went straight to work on the FJ40. I quickly got the doors on, but here is the rest of the story. I bought the @SMG door pins a while back, and it was time to use them. I followed the directions in his post about cleaning the hinges with a drill bit etc. I assembled the passenger side first with some high quality spay lube, Zep 45, but it was more difficult than I expected, a little more hammer required than I would have thought. Then for the driver side I used a Q-tip to apply assembly lube to all surfaces. That was the trick! After assembly the passenger side was immediately rock solid, but the driver side still had a rattle. Then I discovered that the driver side wasn't actually closing all the way... The latch seems to have 2 stages of closing and it was only getting half way. Then, I slammed the door and voila! The latch closed all the way and it was super tight! So now I guess I have to sleep some tonight so that I can try driving the 40 to work tomorrow to see how the doors work out. I just have to remember to slam the door in the morning... I bet there is an adjustment for that.Here's a sneak peek of what is coming up for my weekend project... Here's a hint.... SummitRacing had a great sale going on this week.
Started building a rear fuel tank.
How do you plan on mounting it? Does it stick down much further than the frame?
My tank like that is mounted by a pair of holes going through the middle of it. I've read that in time the welds around the pipes, going through, can crack in time. It's somewhat shallower than what yours appears to be.
It’s an identical clone of the ManaFre rear tank. It drops down below the frame for sure, but it shouldn’t hit anything unless you drop off of a perfectly vertical ledge that’s more than 2.5 feet tall.
I’m planning to weld some brackets to the side and mount it to the rear and both sides of the frame.
You’ve probably figured it out but…….. the latches can be adjusted - so you don’t have to slam your door!So. My girlfriend had a headache, a box was delivered by UPS and sitting at my gate, and we had a 35% chance of rain. Those things added up to... an excuse to take off work!!
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Here's a sneak peek of what is coming up for my weekend project... Here's a hint.... SummitRacing had a great sale going on this week.
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Well... it took me a few weeks longer than I had hoped, but I finally got ‘er all bolted back together over Memorial Day weekend. After about 15sec of crankin she fired right up!! What a great feeling that is after the motor had been out for over a year!!
The new Vintage Air A/C about freezes me out of the cabin!
Been driving it everywhere this week, but trying to be kind until I get the “Mosley Magic” motor broke in... it definitely has a few more ponies than the old motor.... the Sniper also remains in Learn Mode for now.
Still need to reinstall the winch and finish up a few wiring projects, but it’s great to be back on the road again!
Sweet! So... freakishly powerful?
I’ve had an intermittent fuel smell issue in the cab for a couple of years now and occasionally pressure in the tank when removing the gas cap to fill it. The valves on the canister weren’t badly blocked really - just finicky. Or so I thought. Apparently the fuel smell had gotten so bad that my partner declared she wasn’t riding in the 40 until the problem was solved. I think I had just gotten used to it.
With the factory canister NLA (Heritage?) I had picked up one of the various aftermarket replacements for a Buick... or whatever a while back. There are attachment points for the “tank” and “purge” lines but not for the OVCV or the air inlet at the bottom that Toyota so cleverly drew from inside the right floor brace. I briefly ran the tank line straight to the purge line to the air cleaner (via all the vacuum switches) just to experiment and within 30 seconds got this strange, high-pitched whistle as the engine sucked air all the way from the vent on the gas cap! Not good. I didn’t want to mount the replacement canister with zip ties or bailing wire so I went off to the junk yard where I found a ’95 Suburban that still had a bracket that looked like it could work.
I made a plate to bolt the GM bracket to the factory fender bracket and everything went together pretty well although the GM bracket tilts the canister slightly but it doesn’t really bother me. I capped the float bowl vent line that formerly went to the Outer Vent Control Valve on the can which made starting much easier as all the fuel in the bowl doesn’t evaporate away after sitting for a day or two.
Here’s the parts...
And a comparison of my hack work and the original.
With the factory canister NLA (Heritage?) I had picked up one of the various aftermarket replacements for a Buick... or whatever a while back. There are attachment points for the “tank” and “purge” lines but not for the OVCV or the air inlet at the bottom that Toyota so cleverly drew from inside the right floor brace. I briefly ran the tank line straight to the purge line to the air cleaner (via all the vacuum switches) just to experiment and within 30 seconds got this strange, high-pitched whistle as the engine sucked air all the way from the vent on the gas cap! Not good. I didn’t want to mount the replacement canister with zip ties or bailing wire so I went off to the junk yard where I found a ’95 Suburban that still had a bracket that looked like it could work.
I made a plate to bolt the GM bracket to the factory fender bracket and everything went together pretty well although the GM bracket tilts the canister slightly but it doesn’t really bother me. I capped the float bowl vent line that formerly went to the Outer Vent Control Valve on the can which made starting much easier as all the fuel in the bowl doesn’t evaporate away after sitting for a day or two.
Here’s the parts...
And a comparison of my hack work and the original.
So, did it pass your partner's inspection?
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Installed new fuel system including OEM Tank, sender, stainless steel fuel lines (hand made), Toyota fuel soft lines, Toyota clamps and later model fuel pump (with return). Adding the fuel return has solved the vapor lock hard start. Very happy to have this system done. Thanks again @ToyotaMatt for the fuel pump gasket and correct bolts.
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The arm that rides on the cam is larger than earlier pumps without the return. On one with a return a spacer is used between the pump and the block. I didn't see a spacer in the picture.
Isn't that it?
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Diagram shows two gaskets and an insulator 7/79 on. Most common late replacement pump are probably the post 7/79 type. I know the replacement pump on my 79 I needed the insulator/spacer. Found out the hard way twenty years ago when I ran my spare 79 pump on a early 2F. It worked for a while before the arm cracked. If he has the rifht setup great. Doesn't hurt to be sure it's right.
Finished painting the rims, decided I don’t like to paint, new tires, took some poser shots to test the flex on the custom springs. Happy with all of it.
Indeed... better safe than sorry. I just replaced mine (1/80)... looks like the two gaskets and the spacer are just stacked together in that shot.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
@Living in the Past thanks for checking. The spacer has a gasket on each side making it simple to install with FIPG. This version (spacer with gaskets) has Toyota Part # 90923-06010.
Oh yeah. The quote was "That's amazing. Now I won't have to wash my hair after every trip in your Cruiser.".
It'll still take a few days for all the saturated materials to completely finish outgassing but man, how I was enduring it for this long is troublesome. Maybe I'm addicted to gasoline?
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Waiting for close to a year for Star Link. Until then I just use my phone. Pictures being smaller are to tell the details. I knew the your original pump didn't have a isolator and wanted to be sure your replacement had one. Years ago I bought my replacement from a auto store chain called Checker. Cost of the pump was dirt cheap. It was the inconvenience having the failure that was a pain.