What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (36 Viewers)

[nwfl4runner]

Yeah, pic's would be awesome!

Here you go. The Acrylic sheet was some black 1/8" thick. You have to remove the entire unit (including seat fan switches) to disassemble but it's very straight forward. The main unit that contains the ash tray unscrews from behind. Begin disassembly until you have it completely broken down. There is a flap that covers the ash tray that you can remove. I used a hot knife to cut out a recess for the switch pro to fit in. The acrylic was cut 2 1/4" x 5 7/8" inches. There is an indent on the bottom edge that you need to cut so it sits flush on the bottom.

To cut the acrylic straight I cheated and used my table saw. Then used a Dremel to cut out the hole for the switch pro. The acrylic actually sits on top of the ash tray unit providing excellent support all around. I then used 6-32 rods to extend through the bottom of the ash tray through holes I drilled. Washers and red Loctite works a charm. The rod can now be removed using the nut any time I need to. You can see how I used the switch pro metal plates as well. With the smallest pressure the unit is held both flush and solid. It doesn't move. Also note that I wrapped the rods nearest the wire with rubber to prevent any rubbing.

You must cut one of the rods flush to ensure the opening mechanism still works. It still touches at the bottom, but actually has the benefit of opening the ash tray without pushing as far. The switch pro needs to be installed upside down so you can see the activation buttons. You need to place the unit approximately 1/4" from the bottom so that you can have room for metal bracket. It also allows you to see about 90%+ of the top buttons when the installed.

Hope that helps!

 

[2008Cruiser]

I need ^ too

 

[Jebbud]

Kaymar

• Jebbud
• May 13, 2019

200 series Kaymar rear bar

Getting my Kaymar rear bar and LRA auxiliary tank installed thanks to @orangefj45 and @wardharris . And I really appreciate Valley Hybrids getting the install done before Expo West . More pics to come.

 

[Markuson]

My @indycole special arrived a few minutes ago...

Noticed two things...

Made in Australia (not China)...

And also appreciated how clear and specific they got in specifying the model particulars like “pre-facelift..5.7...and more... Great move, ARB.

Would love for others (Toyota included) to add real world identifiers on their parts labels...

So now comes the scary part...cutting more big holes in my truck.

 

[mcgaskins]

So now comes the scary part...cutting more big holes in my truck.

If I can do it, anyone can do it! Just make sure you put down copious amounts of masking tape onto the fender before you put on your template, and make sure the template lines up to the body lines perfectly before you cut. A replacement fender is only ~$350 as a worst case scenario

 

[Markuson]

If I can do it, anyone can do it! Just make sure you put down copious amounts of masking tape onto the fender before you put on your template, and make sure the template lines up to the body lines perfectly before you cut. A replacement fender is only ~$350 as a worst case scenario

Really?? That’s surprisingly cheap!

 

[Markuson]

Bindi...wondering if she just got the world’s biggest chew toy...?

 

[Mendocino]

Really?? That’s surprisingly cheap!

I've had to buy a replacement left front fender already... The part is cheap, but the paint matching is a little more expensive.

 

[orangefj45]

Kaymar

• Jebbud
• May 13, 2019

200 series Kaymar rear bar

Getting my Kaymar rear bar and LRA auxiliary tank installed thanks to @orangefj45 and @wardharris . And I really appreciate Valley Hybrids getting the install done before Expo West . More pics to come.

chop chop chop ……….. half way there!

And we're inetalling a set of Terrain Tamer HD Rotors and pads while we're at it!!!

Georg

 

[Cfbrenton1]

Long story short... Took truck in to get front windshield brow tint. Installer cracked windshield. Got brand new windshield and brow tint for free (awesome because I had a large existing crack in the windshield also)

View attachment 1967546

And also ordered SPC UCAs and wheel spacers from Slee.

One of the first things I look for on used LC/LX is a stock one Toyota windshield. What kind of windshield is it?

 

[1shot1kill]

Hate chrome!

 

[1shot1kill]

And the last bit of chrome!

 

[Cfbrenton1]

And the last bit of chrome!View attachment 1976912

 

[Cfbrenton1]

And the last bit of chrome!View attachment 1976912

No chrome here either!

 

[DirtNap]

Finished the 35s install. Started with 4.88s last month.
Minimal trimming required. No body chop required.
275/80r18 measures 35 1/8 mounted. 35mm effective offset.

I was initially surprised that the 35's worked with minimal trimming etc. but great news. Maybe it is because yourn tires are narrower than the 'typical' 35? e.g., I had a lot of rubbing on KDSS and body (after trimming) with 34.4" KOs, but they were 315's. And IIRC, many LT35's are 35x12.5 (317mm) so they would intrude medially more than a narrower tire.

Were you able to test for rubbing at full compression or droop?

 

[DirtNap]

Getting my Kaymar rear bar and LRA auxiliary tank installed thanks to @orangefj45 and @wardharris . And I really appreciate Valley Hybrids getting the install done before Expo West . More pics to come.

Awesome. Been intrigued by the Kaymar bars for a while. Was just watching some YouTube footage of them the other day and they look great on a 200-series. Nearly stock (or OEM option) appearance, especially if they are color matched. And nice that you can (easily?) remove the swing arms for more convenient daily-driver access to the rear. I expect lots of pictures on completion!

 

[grinchy]

I was initially surprised that the 35's worked with minimal trimming etc. but great news. Maybe it is because yourn tires are narrower than the 'typical' 35? e.g., I had a lot of rubbing on KDSS and body (after trimming) with 34.4" KOs, but they were 315's. And IIRC, many LT35's are 35x12.5 (317mm) so they would intrude medially more than a narrower tire.

Were you able to test for rubbing at full compression or droop?

Yes. Choosing a tall narrow tire and a medium (35mm) offset was deliberately done to reduce rubbing and decrease other fitment issues. It would be slightly better for scrub and some minor clearances with 40mm offset, but I already had the 25mm spacers on hand.

No I haven’t been anywhere demanding yet. As I’ve taken up two inches of wheel well with the taller tire I will almost certainly need to sensor lift all four corners. At that point I’ll effectively be on a two inch lift (it’s an inch+ but ahc doesn’t compress with load like springs) and I should be okay for full flex.

I experience no issues currently with minor things like driving up on curbs and speed bumps, full lock turns etc

I anticipate no droop clearance issues.

 

[Markuson]

Yes. Choosing a tall narrow tire and a medium (35mm) offset was deliberately done to reduce rubbing and decrease other fitment issues. It would be slightly better for scrub and some minor clearances with 40mm offset, but I already had the 25mm spacers on hand.

No I haven’t been anywhere demanding yet. As I’ve taken up two inches of wheel well with the taller tire I will almost certainly need to sensor lift all four corners. At that point I’ll effectively be on a two inch lift (it’s an inch+ but ahc doesn’t compress with load like springs) and I should be okay for full flex.

I experience no issues currently with minor things like driving up on curbs and speed bumps, full lock turns etc

I anticipate no droop clearance issues.

Width is the killer. I was 35x12.5...and those 12.5” are gonna rub somewhere. Whack an inch off of that, and there’s a shot at clearing, though full stuff in rear in stock bumpstops can will likely still rugburn the coating on the rear wells.

 

[supercarrera]

My LX is pushing 105K miles and I didn't really want to risk being stranded with a bad starter so I swapped it out with a denso rebuilt unit from RockAuto. The transplant was one of the newer smaller ones and looked brand new. I'm pretty sure the solenoid was new. I was able to remove it through the space created in the bottom of the truck by removing the middle section of the exhaust pipe.

 

[Just a Ninja]

My LX is pushing 105K miles and I didn't really want to risk being stranded with a bad starter so I swapped it out with a denso rebuilt unit from RockAuto. The transplant was one of the newer smaller ones and looked brand new. I'm pretty sure the solenoid was new. I was able to remove it through the space created in the bottom of the truck by removing the middle section of the exhaust pipe.

View attachment 1977299

Educate me on the starter thing? Are they just likely to go out over 100k? Mines got 116k now so might be something I need to replace preemptively?