Those look awesome!I've had these RWs in the garage for over a year now. Finally decided to do something with them. I got them thru 2 Craigslist buys. The black ones were pretty beat up and the previous owner gouged them up pretty badly by trying to use regular lug nuts.
They've been repaired and I now have a matching set of 5, powder coated black. The center caps didn't turn out very well, so I ordered a new set.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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I like my 200 so much I've been driving it too much! I hate looking down and seeing the miles add up (still only at 37k but I want to keep them low), so I bought a daily driver 
I feel like a soccer dad driving it, but I'll get double the mpg and not care as much about door dings at work. Tempted to throw some Ridge Grapplers, a light bar and a winch on it 
I feel like a soccer dad driving it, but I'll get double the mpg and not care as much about door dings at work. Tempted to throw some Ridge Grapplers, a light bar and a winch on it 
Markuson
SILVER Star
I feel like a soccer dad driving it, but I'll get double the mpg and not care as much about door dings at work. Tempted to throw some Ridge Grapplers, a light bar and a winch on it
View attachment 1467499
Skip the Ridge Grapplers and just stick a big plastic wing on the back...
Skip the Ridge Grapplers and just stick a big plastic wing on the back...
If it increases the mpg I'm down. Going to be hypermiling this bad boy. I REALLY wanted a 100 as my dd, but my brilliant wife pointed out buying something that gets the exact same mpg wasn't the brightest idea I've had. Glad there's one voice of reason in this house!
Divide the delta between the purchase cost of a replacement car that gets what, low 20s, and the amount of miles you would have to pile into the LC in order to just break even (I'm guessing it's 1m+ miles driven in the LC) and then come back to that voice of reason assessment.
I'm sure it's a completely terrific appliance for the purpose intended, but life's too short to drive boring commutermobiles!
I'm sure it's a completely terrific appliance for the purpose intended, but life's too short to drive boring commutermobiles!
Markuson
SILVER Star
Ya, and my 200 gets better highway mpg than my 100 did.
On the other hand...my 100 was fully built, so I might drop a good bit once bumpers, lights, winch, rear tire etc go on...
But anyway, ya...would have been a pretty crappy gas-saver.
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So I've had my truck a week now, so far I've:
* disabled the auto wiper sensor
* removed the 3rd row seats
* added a nifty tray to the cooler box
* removed the worthless wheel locks, installed regular lug nuts
* changed the engine air filter
* changed the cabin air filter
* changed the engine oil & filter
* swapped the plastic oil filter housing out
* removed all the splash pans under the truck, found 4 broken off bolts that I'm gonna fix tomorrow
* cleaned up the trailer hitch, several coats of Amsoil metal protector
* coated the KDSS valve with waterproof grease
* started removing bolts, anti-sieze, replace
* ordered the upgraded primary battery tray from Slee
* ordered new spark plugs
* ordered more Amsoil gear lube, prepping to do both diffs and the transfer
Engine will get detailed tomorrow. Might start cleaning the interior.
* disabled the auto wiper sensor
* removed the 3rd row seats
* added a nifty tray to the cooler box
* removed the worthless wheel locks, installed regular lug nuts
* changed the engine air filter
* changed the cabin air filter
* changed the engine oil & filter
* swapped the plastic oil filter housing out
* removed all the splash pans under the truck, found 4 broken off bolts that I'm gonna fix tomorrow
* cleaned up the trailer hitch, several coats of Amsoil metal protector
* coated the KDSS valve with waterproof grease
* started removing bolts, anti-sieze, replace
* ordered the upgraded primary battery tray from Slee
* ordered new spark plugs
* ordered more Amsoil gear lube, prepping to do both diffs and the transfer
Engine will get detailed tomorrow. Might start cleaning the interior.
Divide the delta between the purchase cost of a replacement car that gets what, low 20s, and the amount of miles you would have to pile into the LC in order to just break even (I'm guessing it's 1m+ miles driven in the LC) and then come back to that voice of reason assessment.
I'm sure it's a completely terrific appliance for the purpose intended, but life's too short to drive boring commutermobiles!
Not sure I get or agree with your point, but I figure the 200 is new enough that adding a lot more miles to it will depreciate it much faster than adding miles to an 11 year old Lexus that's essentially fully depreciated. I also don't particularly enjoy driving my LC 50+ miles a day in stop and go traffic with crappy drivers all around me and things like door dings and bad weather/hail to worry about because I don't have covered parking at work. I will be able to drive this Lexus for a couple years with little cost, get double or more the mpg the LC gets, and sell it for what I paid for it, all while the LC ends up with lower miles, I can add mods and work on it more leisurely, and still get to enjoy it whenever I want. I could buy a nice 911 to sit in bumper to bumper traffic and watch it get nailed with hail out the office window, but that just doesn't sound all that appealing to me.
Are you planning on selling the LC? You have a '14 so you're already eating pretty massive depreciation just on the newness of your particular truck. Any way you slice it your opportunity cost is higher, but hey, your money, your cars.
It's not as if you're doing something wrong, just pointing out that your justification's flawed. I'm in a similar boat - right now we have 3 cars and no daily commute other than taking kids to school, so all this stuff is just a luxury, including the 80 series I bought to park at DIA and avoid buying my -V snow tires. But it's not saving me any money.
What's your insurance on the RX? Guessing even just that incremental cost is about the difference in your LC vs RX MPGs....
1000 miles commuting a month @ 13 mpg = ~77 gallons of gas @ $2.50 = $192.50
1000 miles commuting a month @ what, 22 mpg? = $113.75
So $78 difference in gas saved from the LC. ~6.5 years to break even just on a cheap $6k purchase price not factoring in maintenance and calling gas savings & insurance a wash.
My vote is for driving awesome cars whenever possible, which is how I racked up 35k miles on my -V in less than 2 years. Re: hail, that's what insurance is for. If you have a 50 mile commute you may as well try to enjoy it. Bill Shatner said it well:
[youtube]
It's not as if you're doing something wrong, just pointing out that your justification's flawed. I'm in a similar boat - right now we have 3 cars and no daily commute other than taking kids to school, so all this stuff is just a luxury, including the 80 series I bought to park at DIA and avoid buying my -V snow tires. But it's not saving me any money.
What's your insurance on the RX? Guessing even just that incremental cost is about the difference in your LC vs RX MPGs....
1000 miles commuting a month @ 13 mpg = ~77 gallons of gas @ $2.50 = $192.50
1000 miles commuting a month @ what, 22 mpg? = $113.75
So $78 difference in gas saved from the LC. ~6.5 years to break even just on a cheap $6k purchase price not factoring in maintenance and calling gas savings & insurance a wash.
My vote is for driving awesome cars whenever possible, which is how I racked up 35k miles on my -V in less than 2 years. Re: hail, that's what insurance is for. If you have a 50 mile commute you may as well try to enjoy it. Bill Shatner said it well:
[youtube]
Are you planning on selling the LC? You have a '14 so you're already eating pretty massive depreciation just on the newness of your particular truck. Any way you slice it your opportunity cost is higher, but hey, your money, your cars.
It's not as if you're doing something wrong, just pointing out that your justification's flawed. I'm in a similar boat - right now we have 3 cars and no daily commute other than taking kids to school, so all this stuff is just a luxury, including the 80 series I bought to park at DIA and avoid buying my -V snow tires. But it's not saving me any money.
What's your insurance on the RX? Guessing even just that incremental cost is about the difference in your LC vs RX MPGs....
1000 miles commuting a month @ 13 mpg = ~77 gallons of gas @ $2.50 = $192.50
1000 miles commuting a month @ what, 22 mpg? = $113.75
So $78 difference in gas saved from the LC. ~6.5 years to break even just on a cheap $6k purchase price not factoring in maintenance and calling gas savings & insurance a wash.
My vote is for driving awesome cars whenever possible, which is how I racked up 35k miles on my -V in less than 2 years. Re: hail, that's what insurance is for. If you have a 50 mile commute you may as well try to enjoy it. Bill Shatner said it well:
[youtube]
I have no idea why you want to dispute this with me, but sure I'll play. I take issue with your assertion my justification is flawed, and I feel that's an ignorant statement considering you don't know what I paid for any of my vehicles nor understand my usage and plan for the vehicles and their eventual sale(s). My LC is getting around 13 mpg average which is pretty good considering my build and stop and go driving. With my normal commute plus weekend driving, I'm doing around 1,300 miles per month which is about 100 gallons of gas at roughly $2.40/gallon which is around $240/month. The RX which is 11 years old, nearly fully depreciated (which means when I'm done with it I'll likely get close to what I paid for it back out of it), and has service records since birth including a recent timing belt/water pump/spark plugs/fluid change/windshield/tire replacement and a clean Carfax will likely do about 22mpg according to what I've read online and what the prior owner said he was getting. That adds up to $141/month for ~$100 a month in gas savings alone. Full coverage insurance at the exact same (extremely high) levels I have the 200 at adds $22/month to my bill which I actually full 6 month premiums at a time to get an additional discount. So far, I'm around $78/month ahead, but the real "savings" is the fact I'm not putting high wear and tear miles on the 200.
In my several years of research and close eye on the market, it seems about every 10k miles on a late model LC depreciates the vehicle $3k-$5k (within the same generation - 2008-2011, 2013-2015, 2016+, etc.), so theoretically putting 10k miles on a daily driver "saves" me a good chunk of that depreciation. The miles and condition of the vehicle are extremely important to resale value, and yes, I absolutely intend to sell my 200 at some point so I care a lot about resale value (and everyone who buys my vehicles appreciates how well taken care of they are). I love all kinds of cars, trucks and motorcycles and have owned 41 now with the addition of the RX, and making sure my investments are well preserved with good records is paramount. That leads to your other point about insurance - of course I have insurance that would cover hail damage, but anyone in their right mind would rather have a vehicle that has never been hail damaged than one that has been damaged and fixed. I work on the extreme east side of Denver which is notorious for getting crushed with hail damage, and I've left work early 4 days already this spring to go home and park in my garage when the weather looks threatening. Considering the totality of gas savings, depreciation savings, insurance claim/damage potential savings, keeping the Carfax clean, keeping the 200 as clean as possible for the next owner while still enjoying it for road trips and camping, I think this is a pretty sound investment on my part. The RX is also a convenient extra AWD vehicle to have around for friends and family to borrow and allows for a lot more flexibility to wrench on the 200 on a more casual schedule. Again, not really sure why you want to dispute this with me, but if you want to discuss further let's take it to PM.
EDIT/ADD: It looks like in some of your recent threads you mention wanting to have a DD/beater car to leave at the airport. I wonder if that's related to concerns of vandalism, hail, weather, etc? Well guess what - that's where my office is
It also looks like you're trying to sell the 80 you bought for those reasons right now for $4,200 more than you paid for it about 8 months ago, so you can understand where I'm coming from when I say it's not a bad idea to buy a DD if it's depreciated and you're not likely to lose money on it.
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Hey, if your wife's reading the forums that's all you had to say.
PS, that's a joke. Relax dude. I'll only give you gentle ribbing for using the cardinal sin (AKA the best Craigslist search term ever) of 'investment' in your justification on accumulating more depreciating assets. I don't disagree that you're smoothing out the depreciation curve on your LC, but it's a losing battle.
I too have had dozens of cars and take care of them - and principally, see them as a means to an end of going places and seeing and doing things with my family because those cars were for me, not the next owner.
Maybe I'll be your next buyer and happily enjoy using a car that wants to be Woody, not Stinky Pete!
Re: the 80, I won't even break even if it sells in the $5s and that's with me doing a lot of the work as it needed a lot of catch-up maintenance. It was dirt-cheap to begin with, sure, but that's because the going rate for nice/sorted 80s is well above what I got it at. The condition the truck was in when I got it, and getting it back up to an acceptable level wiped out any real possibility of profit.
The opportunity cost was me, as an enthusiast, trying out an 80, learning its pros and cons, and then moving on. I didn't sell it to my wife as cost-savings though, she knew what I was up to.
PS, that's a joke. Relax dude. I'll only give you gentle ribbing for using the cardinal sin (AKA the best Craigslist search term ever) of 'investment' in your justification on accumulating more depreciating assets. I don't disagree that you're smoothing out the depreciation curve on your LC, but it's a losing battle.
I too have had dozens of cars and take care of them - and principally, see them as a means to an end of going places and seeing and doing things with my family because those cars were for me, not the next owner.
Maybe I'll be your next buyer and happily enjoy using a car that wants to be Woody, not Stinky Pete!
Re: the 80, I won't even break even if it sells in the $5s and that's with me doing a lot of the work as it needed a lot of catch-up maintenance. It was dirt-cheap to begin with, sure, but that's because the going rate for nice/sorted 80s is well above what I got it at. The condition the truck was in when I got it, and getting it back up to an acceptable level wiped out any real possibility of profit.
The opportunity cost was me, as an enthusiast, trying out an 80, learning its pros and cons, and then moving on. I didn't sell it to my wife as cost-savings though, she knew what I was up to.
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Hey, if your wife's reading the forums that's all you had to say.
PS, that's a joke. Relax dude. I'll only give you gentle ribbing for using the cardinal sin (AKA the best Craigslist search term ever) of 'investment' in your justification on accumulating more depreciating assets. I don't disagree that you're smoothing out the depreciation curve on your LC, but it's a losing battle.
I too have had dozens of cars and take care of them - and principally, see them as a means to an end of going places and seeing and doing things with my family because those cars were for me, not the next owner.
Maybe I'll be your next buyer and happily enjoy using a car that wants to be Woody, not Stinky Pete!
Re: the 80, I'll won't even break even if it sells in the 5s and that's with me doing a lot of the work as it needed a lot of catch-up maintenance. The opportunity cost was me, as an enthusiast, trying out an 80, learning its pros and cons, and then moving on. I didn't sell it to my wife as cost-savings though, she knew what I was up to.
You missed the point and the math, but whatever. Your graphic is correct - the only winning move is not to play. I do use my 200 for it's intended use like my week long trip with family and friends to Moab a couple weeks ago and the 3 other trips I have planned for the summer, but I simply prefer to utilize it for those trips instead of the daily grind. If you think a built 200 is best suited for a daily commute, that is fantastic - it is definitely a solid choice.
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Dave and Matt, everyone does things based on what is right for them, Everyones perspective is different. Anyone arguing with me on why something I am or not doing is pretty much a waste of time as they do not have the same perspective I have. I drove a BMW Z4 for 4 years to not put a lot of miles on my 100 series. It got close to 30 MPG. It had nothing to do with the gas mileage, a little to do with adding mileage and more to do with just wanting another vehicle.
There really isn't anything to argue about here. Don't make me moderate two fellow club members
I still have another vehicle, I sold the Z4 and bought my 3rd 40 series (Own 1 at a time)
There really isn't anything to argue about here. Don't make me moderate two fellow club members
I still have another vehicle, I sold the Z4 and bought my 3rd 40 series (Own 1 at a time)
Oh I get it. Guess whether the LC or this one gets worse mpg:
I think Matt and I worked out our differences by arguing on a forum on the weekend way too late at night, all is good from my side.
Picked up a hundy last monday....one owner
Nevada truck,always dealer serviced and rear diff lock. I couldn't pass it up.
And since this is the 200 section what did I do with it this weekend?
Moved it in the garage in front of the 80
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i got the TSB (0209-17) transmission flash for the 2016+ models today... my VIN met the criteria, as i was one of the first buyers in my area when the cosmetic refresh arrived. if i'm honest, i haven't noticed any difference yet. gonna drive it around a bit tomorrow, but i didn't actually have a problem before.
it took about an hour to do the flash/upgrade, for those wondering - a half hour to do the upgrade, then they have to wait a half hour... bizarre to me, but part of their standard process according to the service manager.
i then drove home trying to run through various speeds (trying to force abnormal up/down shifting) with no noticeable changes to shifting smoothness or general changes in shifting that stood out to me. i'm absolutely *not* saying that it didn't do some good for some of the folks experiencing rough shifting - just that i haven't noticed an a appreciable difference yet.
i know a handful of people on the forum have had issues with the new transmission, but i haven't had any since i bought mine in january of 2016. i'm busy knocking on wood right now, but at least i've had the SW update applied, so hopefully i'll stay ahead of any problems.
i'll update if i notice a difference, but a big thanks to @luke27617 for originally posting about this TSB...
** UPDATE **
i drove quite a bit today, both highway and stop-and-go... i stand corrected - it is a LOT smoother shifting after the update. i hardly notice the upshifts at all and it seems to be much better at selecting the correct gear when downshifting.
it took about an hour to do the flash/upgrade, for those wondering - a half hour to do the upgrade, then they have to wait a half hour... bizarre to me, but part of their standard process according to the service manager.
i then drove home trying to run through various speeds (trying to force abnormal up/down shifting) with no noticeable changes to shifting smoothness or general changes in shifting that stood out to me. i'm absolutely *not* saying that it didn't do some good for some of the folks experiencing rough shifting - just that i haven't noticed an a appreciable difference yet.
i know a handful of people on the forum have had issues with the new transmission, but i haven't had any since i bought mine in january of 2016. i'm busy knocking on wood right now, but at least i've had the SW update applied, so hopefully i'll stay ahead of any problems.
i'll update if i notice a difference, but a big thanks to @luke27617 for originally posting about this TSB...
** UPDATE **
i drove quite a bit today, both highway and stop-and-go... i stand corrected - it is a LOT smoother shifting after the update. i hardly notice the upshifts at all and it seems to be much better at selecting the correct gear when downshifting.
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Phase 1 of my Switch Pros SP-8100 install.
I re-purposed some scrap shelf brackets and some sheet metal from the office to make a mount for the power module.
Then wired all of the module outputs to a termination block. This will make adding future electrical accessories much easier, and allow for more flexibility compared to the recommended termination method.
I was also able to push the connector and cable for the switch panel thru the firewall in preparation for mounting the switch panel, which along with connecting the ignition and backlight wires will be part 2 of this install.
I re-purposed some scrap shelf brackets and some sheet metal from the office to make a mount for the power module.
Then wired all of the module outputs to a termination block. This will make adding future electrical accessories much easier, and allow for more flexibility compared to the recommended termination method.
I was also able to push the connector and cable for the switch panel thru the firewall in preparation for mounting the switch panel, which along with connecting the ignition and backlight wires will be part 2 of this install.
No lift. Only rub is on front mud flaps in reverse near full lock.
Been wanting to do this for awhile. Followed the outside lines of the bulges vs the whole hood. 3M satin black. Wasn't my intention for doing this but the glare is significantly reduced.
I tried wrapping the sensors but warning was constant. Will have to re-spray the plasti dip back on.
I tried wrapping the sensors but warning was constant. Will have to re-spray the plasti dip back on.
