Old rad is 176k+ miles and this new one basically zero miles.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
- Thread starter MScruiser
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- 200 series
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The crack looks to me like it could have been caused by the radiator being dropped or otherwise mishandled, and the force was concentrated on the drain nipple. Not saying you dropped it, but it could have been at the factory, during shipping, etc. I can't imagine a crack like that being a manufacturing defect (unless maybe it's a split seam or something?)
It is great that the dealer is standing behind it, but it sucks that you're out the time and effort to make it right.
Yeah it sucks but it is what it is, and no the rad went straight from huge packaging to its spot in the engine bay.
I think so too that the damage could be from mishandling pre-packaging. Or maybe during shipping, take a close look at the bottom part of the radiator and how it’s pressed on the cardboard wall of the box, if there was a spacer there so the drain hole doesn’t receive any pressure, that could’ve helped avoid the hairline crack. Below are the actual pictures when I unboxed it.
Not the first one we’ve seen leak from that area just after install. Sounds like a handling issue as you suggest.
drain and filled the ATF 3x. more details here.
Any chance you have the part number for those Lexus 14mm bolts
Here
(H) = Hex
(S) = Socket Regular
(M) = Magnetic
what I am going with is in green. I don't think the fill plugs need magnets..
(S) = Socket Regular
(M) = Magnetic
what I am going with is in green. I don't think the fill plugs need magnets..
The fronts are a difficult install, no joke! Rears are not bad at all, especially once you get one round under your belt. I ended up removing my front seats completely to install them. It was far easier and allows for the proper strap routing over the bar near the front of the seat.
Your covers look like you could snug them up a bunch to get those wrinkles out. Definitely a personal preference m but if found that a snug seat cover seems to work better.
Yup, I don’t remove them completely but I unbolted and tipped the seat front to back. That helped, but I have big hands and feel like I have 40 paper cuts from reaching in and out to get them over those bars.
The covers looked taught until I sat in each of them. I will snug them all up tomorrow. I was just over it after 4hrs.
Here
(H) = Hex
(S) = Socket Regular
(M) = Magnetic
what I am going with is in green. I don't think the fill plugs need magnets..
These are the exact ones I used. They were slightly shorter in overall length but threaded in and torqued fine. I think factory bolt length is longer due to the internal depth needed for the Allen key configuration.
90341-18060 Fill
90341-24016 Drain
Do these block off the front seat ventilation? Not that it’s a great feature in the 200 but it’s still better than nothing.
Deets? 2nd row? What color?
I did my first 200 oil change last week. I learned that the oil change guy who did it at the dealership last was given that job for a reason. I also learned to not buy a cheap amazon oil filter housing tool. I broke the cheap tool and a tab off the plastic housing, and it was still on the vehicle. I bought the Toyota Venza metal replacement filter housing and the Tool Guy Republic filter housing removal tool. Just out of curiosity I used my torque wrench to remove the old filter housing with the new tool to see how tight it really was. Spec is 18ft.lb. It broke free at just past 120 ft.lbs. Granted over time the seal will bond, but this was the tightest filter I've ever encountered. All I can say is BUY the Tool Guy Republic filter housing removal tool. It didn't even blink and got the old housing off without issue. Last little thing I learned was a Mobile 1 quart cap fits the Amazon screw in funnel (also highly recommended).
This is exactly what happened to me this weekend. Went to take off the plastic filter and was getting ready to brace and push off the driver tire. Realized that nothing good was gonna happen and went to my local indy mechanic to have them get it off.