prwillard2
SILVER Star
Thanks. Just ordered the bolt and nut you have listed. Unfortunately the bolt is special order - so who knows how long it's going to take to get here.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
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It's special order because of the integrated washer most likely. Otherwise there's nothing super special about it.
I can probably measure the thread and pitch on mine later today so you can source an aftermarket bolt and washer until the real part arrives.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
That would be great, thank you!
Over the last couple of weeks - painted hood to correct clear coat issue, new lower control arms and tie rod ends,
new wheels, 1" spacers, and tires. The spacers took the wheels out flush with fenders.
I did get pulled for no front plate in Larimer County, but it was over 10 years ago. Seems like traffic stops are pretty much just not a thing anymore unless someone is really out of hand
The bolt is M14x1.5x80 and does have that integrated washer.
If you cant find that fine of a pitch M14 you should be fine to source any M14 that is 80 or 85 and a nut to fit it. Get two washers for that too.
Also looks like you need to order the toyota washer for the factory setup.. The odd thing is I don't see it on the diagrams. It isn't just a flat washer.. has a relief to allow motion of the sway bar end link.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Thank you!
@prwillard2 best video I’ve found that shows what you need to do. Floor jack or a ratchet strap can be your friend!
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Thanks! Going to check McMasterCarr and see if they'll overnight something to at least get me back on the road while waiting on the OEM Toyota bolt/nut/washer.
Looks great! What spacers did you go with? Also, any trouble with the 2016+ wheels going over your dust covers?
BORA, and had to get extended studs to make it all work.
I don't think you can order just the bolt, they come with the stabilizer links but you can probably get cross reference to another bolt with of same size. - EDIT - I see @bloc and @turbo8 got you the needed info
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Wow. That's really messed up. I did this job over the weekend so it's pretty fresh in my mind. You have no active KDSS now. I just posted a step by step front coilover install thread on this forum. You can see some of the steps there and what the installer missed.
Finally got some warmer weather and nice weekend to wrench outside on the truck. Replaced my front OME BP-51's. Over 50k on them but nothing wrong with the shocks just being proactive on the service. Will send old ones off for rebuild.
I have a 2018 LC and it's had Woolwax like coating applied every fall. It was a very messy job and I didn't take many pics due to all the crap on my gloves. Need to get photo of new ones installed but below is what I was working with. BTW - just posted a step by step write up on another thread on this forum.
I have a 2018 LC and it's had Woolwax like coating applied every fall. It was a very messy job and I didn't take many pics due to all the crap on my gloves. Need to get photo of new ones installed but below is what I was working with. BTW - just posted a step by step write up on another thread on this forum.
Julian73
SILVER Star
Added the Lexus weatherstripping between front & rear doors.. PN 67895-60030, 67896-60030. Only mod required is to drill a smalll hole into the plastic end cap of the rear door window chrome trim.
Gave her a new battery. Original Panasonic was still running strong but the shop reported its health at “60%” and I’d rather pick my battery versus getting whatever is available when it decides to die. Probably overkill but I like these yella bois 
Did the thing, scored a new OME 2” lift setup for $400. Then had to pay retail for the UCA/spacers. I’d probably have been fine stock for a bit longer but took the jump. Rides like stock to me pretty much, I was worried it’d be too stiff/uncomfortable. Now I feel like I need bigger tires than the stock size. Once you start modding it snowballs huh. Happy w/the fitment, first time every running spacers but I’m happy w//these.
I recently finished a big rebuild of my auxiliary electrical system.
I have been running all electrical accessories through a Bussmann RTMR for a couple of years, but my decade-old ARB single compressor bit the dust last summer and I took it as a great excuse to redo some things.
For starters, I had another mounting plate cut and set it up with two 40 amp MIDI fuses (the RTMR is limited to 30 amps per circuit) to power the ARB twin compressor I purchased to replace the single compressor. I also simplified the connections I was using and went from like six 2-pin connectors to only three, none of which can accidentally be connected to the wrong mate.
I moved the main breaker to the top of my battery. I countersunk some screws on the back side of my Slee battery hold down and used nuts to secure it in place, then built a set of new positive cables.
I then mounted the new panel and routed the wires through a hole I had drilled in the firewall, sealed with a grommet.
Everything comes through the firewall and is connected with a factory-style connector under the dash.
And of course I had to build the harness for the compressor, which is mounted on the other side of the engine bay. To simplify this, I had to take apart the ARB wiring harness and add a ground wire. The ARB harness comes out of the compressor as a five-pin plug, but two 10 AWG ground wires are combined into one 8 AWG wire, and an 18 AWG ground wire is expected to be grounded to whatever you're grounding the bigger one to.
I took that apart and went to two dedicated 10 AWG grounds, which should provide less resistance and works much better with the 280 Series Metri-Pack connectors I am using.
All of this goes to a panel on my drawer system at the back, which has the switch for the compressor, a switched USB port, a quick disconnect for the onboard air, and a battery monitor panel.
The next iteration will probably be a little different, I'm not totally happy with the wire routing on the panel I had made. It's not super space efficient and a little messy, so I'll revisit sometime in the future. But it works very well and is a better design than my previous system.
I have been running all electrical accessories through a Bussmann RTMR for a couple of years, but my decade-old ARB single compressor bit the dust last summer and I took it as a great excuse to redo some things.
For starters, I had another mounting plate cut and set it up with two 40 amp MIDI fuses (the RTMR is limited to 30 amps per circuit) to power the ARB twin compressor I purchased to replace the single compressor. I also simplified the connections I was using and went from like six 2-pin connectors to only three, none of which can accidentally be connected to the wrong mate.
I moved the main breaker to the top of my battery. I countersunk some screws on the back side of my Slee battery hold down and used nuts to secure it in place, then built a set of new positive cables.
I then mounted the new panel and routed the wires through a hole I had drilled in the firewall, sealed with a grommet.
Everything comes through the firewall and is connected with a factory-style connector under the dash.
And of course I had to build the harness for the compressor, which is mounted on the other side of the engine bay. To simplify this, I had to take apart the ARB wiring harness and add a ground wire. The ARB harness comes out of the compressor as a five-pin plug, but two 10 AWG ground wires are combined into one 8 AWG wire, and an 18 AWG ground wire is expected to be grounded to whatever you're grounding the bigger one to.
I took that apart and went to two dedicated 10 AWG grounds, which should provide less resistance and works much better with the 280 Series Metri-Pack connectors I am using.
All of this goes to a panel on my drawer system at the back, which has the switch for the compressor, a switched USB port, a quick disconnect for the onboard air, and a battery monitor panel.
The next iteration will probably be a little different, I'm not totally happy with the wire routing on the panel I had made. It's not super space efficient and a little messy, so I'll revisit sometime in the future. But it works very well and is a better design than my previous system.
Here's a good overview of the system.
I also swapped my fake ARB Intensity lights with real ARB Solis lights, which are dimmable and controlled by the high beams via a panel that gets mounted inside. I drilled a hole through a couple of factory switch blanks and mounted the controller here.
And here's the aforementioned panel on the drawers in the back.
I also swapped my fake ARB Intensity lights with real ARB Solis lights, which are dimmable and controlled by the high beams via a panel that gets mounted inside. I drilled a hole through a couple of factory switch blanks and mounted the controller here.
And here's the aforementioned panel on the drawers in the back.
Interesting that the studs needed to be changed. I have a 2016 with 1" BORA and they fit with no changes and with stock tires and wheels.