What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (87 Viewers)

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Purchased my first LC/LX this week. Excited to join the club, modify the truck, follow and post here on MUD!. Been reading plenty in the past few weeks and thanks to you all who helped me so much without even knowing it. This site is the greatest.

It's a 1999 LX with 179k. Super clean exterior and interior. Had maintenance records from the local Lexus dealership which gave me great peace of mind. Nearly a strait swap in $$ for the wife's Impreza. We are both super excited!!View attachment 1354906 View attachment 1354907

And apologies if a first post should not be in this thread. I'm still learning.

Picked up mine three weeks ago. Mine was 197K, rust free, with full dealer records!!!

What did you pay, if you don't mind me asking..? :popcorn:
 
How's the ride..?

Haven't really took it for a long drive, only around the block.
Seems to be stiffer which is a good thing.
I tried to connect Techstream, but it came up with a message for the key.
So I don't have the new AHC pressures.
 
Haven't really took it for a long drive, only around the block.
Seems to be stiffer which is a good thing.
I tried to connect Techstream, but it came up with a message for the key.
So I don't have the new AHC pressures.

Fair enough. I am trying out TS tomorrow night (tracking # says so :D ) and will post my success or lack thereof... If it works, I will be sure to pass it along.
 
Picked up mine three weeks ago. Mine was 197K, rust free, with full dealer records!!!

What did you pay, if you don't mind me asking..? :popcorn:

Don't mind at all. Learned about what I should be looking for at what price here on MUD and am happy to help any other "researchers" that hit the site.

Paid $9k. As I said it was a near wash with the Subaru trade-in which was great. Saved a little $$ so we can afford new rubber soon. Will post pictures once that is done.
 
I know it works as I did the testing not that long ago.
But now when I hit "connect to vehicle" it comes up with key request.
 
Don't mind at all. Learned about what I should be looking for at what price here on MUD and am happy to help any other "researchers" that hit the site.

Paid $9k. As I said it was a near wash with the Subaru trade-in which was great. Saved a little $$ so we can afford new rubber soon. Will post pictures once that is done.

Mine is a Pearl White 99 LX with 197K. Totally rust free with full service records. Just found I have to replace the UCA ball joint boots, but am figuring on going overboard, of course... Now I am dreaming about doing SPC UCA's. Because, you know, I am in there...

BTW, I paid $8,800. Totally worth it since MINE is white :hillbilly:
 
Mine is a Pearl White 99 LX with 197K. Totally rust free with full service records. Just found I have to replace the UCA ball joint boots, but am figuring on going overboard, of course... Now I am dreaming about doing SPC UCA's. Because, you know, I am in there...

BTW, I paid $8,800. Totally worth it since MINE is white :hillbilly:

I have upper control arms I just pulled off mine if you need some. Message me if you're interested.
 
Gave her a proper bath

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Thanks @Bloomer Now I need to convince the wife to let me remove the running boards :hmm:

Well, it looks great as-is! I removed my running boards only because I was headed to HIH one year and replaced them with sliders from MT (did not have a lift the first year I attended and thought sliders would be good insurance). My wife certainly preferred the running boards. I recently picked up an 80 series with Slee step sliders. They are actually more functional as a step then the MT sliders. If you get to the point of removing the running boards, may consider looking at the Slee step sliders as a good compromise. No complaints at all with the MT sliders, but know the wife and kids would have preferred the Slee step sliders on my 100, particularly with the lift. And, FWIW, having both the MT and Slee step sliders now, I believe functionally they will both serve the intended purpose.
 
Replaced both (shot) OEM cats about a year ago with aftermarket 'hi-flow' models, and have been getting random P0420 and P0430 CELs ever since. Since the downstream O2 sensors are only about emissions and I know these cats aren't the same as the OEM, I've been trying to figure out a solution. Finally bought (and installed today) a URD rear O2 sensor simulator - we'll see if this makes the silly codes go away - it should...
 
I know it works as I did the testing not that long ago.
But now when I hit "connect to vehicle" it comes up with key request.

OK, got it working again yesterday.
The rear pressure is now 6.7. It was around 10.4 before.
However the front is now 9.7.

And I have code C1336 which I can't clear with TIS. The ABS light flickers when at standstill but disappears when driving and the VSC TRC light is on.
 
Thanks @Bloomer Now I need to convince the wife to let me remove the running boards :hmm:

Don't ask just take them off. See if they really object after the fact. Had mine off in 20 minutes. My family has not really missed them and when it is an issue for the in laws I just lower the truck before they get in. Only thing I miss about them is it made washing the top easier.
 
Got hit by a piece of tractor trailer tire (~3' long) going about 80mph on the interstate last weekend. Without my BIOR front bumper my ps headlight would've been demolished and maybe that . The rubber barely nicked the headlight, but fortunately the headlight guards on the bumper prevented it from being smashed into a millions pieces considering I have the '00 glass headlights. Just a small rubber scuff on the headlight and corner marker light that will both buff out. It put a few scuff marks in the upper right corner of the fender, the corner of the hood, and it deflected into my ps mirror bending it inwards and putting a scuff mark on it too. Gotta say Mikes bumper saved me on this one, and its just another reason why I love it! If my headlight guard had not taken the brunt of the impact it could've ricocheted into my windshield and been a whole lot worse! Since I'm a student in college I will be going home for thanksgiving break and plan on tackling this project as well as the hood black out panel and fixing that rust spot on the headlight guard from my limb risers I had installed previously.

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Installed a marketing sticker (my rig is now officially a selling mechanism for the KISS Drawers;)
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And had an unexpected maintenance event. Listening to the radio while messing with the drawers and it started cutting in and out on radio - wth? Key off and on and fine, then few minutes later same thing... Turned it over and dreaded rar...rar...rar... nada. DANG. Gave it 10 and tried again and in true Toyota-Is-Not-Going-To-Strand-You fashion fired up, run inside to dig up my notes on the next battery I had planned to buy (next year during dual setup) then into town for a NorthStar X2 from Batteries Plus. Painful $260 but seems to be best (along with Odyssey if you;re looking), so all good. Battery that I took out had zero stickers or markers so no clue how old, but definitely was undersized. Truck starts quicker now too, just in time for winter.
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If you put this one in be aware the hold-down bracket bolt into the frame is not long enough - careful drive to home depot and an M8x1.25x20mm later and all is good.
 
Replaced both (shot) OEM cats about a year ago with aftermarket 'hi-flow' models, and have been getting random P0420 and P0430 CELs ever since. Since the downstream O2 sensors are only about emissions and I know these cats aren't the same as the OEM, I've been trying to figure out a solution. Finally bought (and installed today) a URD rear O2 sensor simulator - we'll see if this makes the silly codes go away - it should...
Please let us know how you go with these, I have the same problem too, generally get the error code after driving for an hour at highway speeds, sometimes it clears itself after a week or so, damn frustrating.
 

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