What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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I finally started replacing the motors in my lock actuators before the Texas heat renders them inoperable for the summer. Started with the rear hatch. Piece of cake. Did the rear doors too, and it was a little more challenging. I epoxied the cases back together, and used my plastic welder to staple the halves together just to be safe -- I'm not anticipating having to changes these again. While I had the door panels off, I re-foamed my speakers and added some Kilmat to the rear doors (against the inside of the outer panel. Everything works and went back together with no left over or missing parts!
 
I just went to Big Bend a few weeks ago. Amazing place! Was this the trail that started near Elena Canyon? I took a 3/4 ton GM Duramax, wishing I had the 100-Series the whole time...

Great place! This was at Big Bend Ranch State Park (BBRSP) near Aso Loop on my way to the Big Bend State Park Main Road. Will be visiting Big Bend National Park next time.
 
I finally started replacing the motors in my lock actuators before the Texas heat renders them inoperable for the summer. Started with the rear hatch. Piece of cake. Did the rear doors too, and it was a little more challenging. I epoxied the cases back together, and used my plastic welder to staple the halves together just to be safe -- I'm not anticipating having to changes these again. While I had the door panels off, I re-foamed my speakers and added some Kilmat to the rear doors (against the inside of the outer panel. Everything works and went back together with no left over or missing parts!
Where did you buy the replacement motors from?
 
For anyone using a Gamiviti rack, 0.75" long 5/16"-18 T-slot nuts fit perfectly in the slots in the plates. Much easier to torque stuff down than using a typical nut and bolt.

Also, if you're using their traction board mounts (for boards, or whatever else) with their supplied threaded knobs/riv nuts, and you don't have the clearance to put a nut on the bottom of the knob to stop the bolt from falling out of the knob, this rubber bumper fits inside the knob almost perfectly.

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Great place! This was at Big Bend Ranch State Park (BBRSP) near Aso Loop on my way to the Big Bend State Park Main Road. Will be visiting Big Bend National Park next time.
I was blown away. Only there three days, but saw a lot. That night sky is something else!
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I haven't got there yet but I am in pursuit of the fan bracket. Getting the fan clutch off was a real bear. At this rate it's going to take all week. I'm going to try to replace those little water bypass hoses if I can figure out the PNs. Anyway, what do you think, should I do the radiator? It's fairly brown, but works fine and has no leaks.

I finally finished replacing my fan bracket and fan clutch. This was a fairly large project (for me) but worth it, they were both shot and the truck sounds much better now. @BnvS step-by-step write-up on @OTRAMM timing belt video was very helpful.

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Truck was good for one day, then I decided to dive back in and install a big beautiful OEM radiator. Which immediately leaked from the (apparently cracked) lower hose outlet when I added fluid. :frown: So disappointing.

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Here's the old one. I think it was time.

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It's always the easy things that bite you...
 
What was the difference you noticed?
I don't know yet. I need to finish replacing the clock spring tomorrow. Had to get a puller yesterday. Hopefully I can wrap this up in the morning, connect the battery, and fire it up. I'll let you know.

I did notice the fuel in the filter to have a brownish tint to it when I dumped it out in a cup.
 
Trying to get her ready for a summer of offroading and camping

Tasks on the list

1) Figure out whats up with my instrument cluster (fuel gauge is the biggest offender but no oil pressure or voltage either
2) Sun roof drain causing leak ✅
3) AC system
(Tried recharging as system seems empty but compressor not clicking on)
4) Tackle a TC leak (or two - might be both seals)
 
Trying to get her ready for a summer of offroading and camping

Tasks on the list

1) Figure out whats up with my instrument cluster (fuel gauge is the biggest offender but no oil pressure or voltage either
2) Sun roof drain causing leak ✅
3) AC system
(Tried recharging as system seems empty but compressor not clicking on)
4) Tackle a TC leak (or two - might be both seals)
With regards to item #1 on your list…

Are the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge, and voltage gauge issues a new development? Or have they been there for a while? Have you checked for blown fuses?

If you or someone else has removed and reinstalled the instrument cluster, perhaps to replace lightbulbs or scratched/ broken glass, it is possible that 1 or both of the 2 wiring connectors to the instrument cluster are not correctly installed or seated properly.

Definitely worth checking.

See post # 1108 on page 56 in this thread…

 
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With regards to item #1 on your list…

Are the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge, and voltage gauge issues a new development? Or have they been there for a while? Have you checked for blown fuses?

If you or someone else has removed and reinstalled the instrument cluster, perhaps to replace lightbulbs or scratched/ broken glass, it is possible that 1 or both of the 2 wiring connectors to the instrument cluster are not correctly installed or seated properly.

Definitely worth checking.

See post # 1108 on page 56 in this thread…


Thanks for your reply!

Progressive over the last couple years.

AFAIK the oil pressure has never really worked in the couple years I've owned the car. Once when I was driving it was actually working, but its typically spiked off the chart high, even when off.

The fuel used to work. Then on the primary tank it quit, then on the secondary tank too. Whats bizarre is for the primary it shows empty all the time, and for secondary it shows off the chart full. My guess was sender but when I popped the plug the resistance across the tank side pins seemed right. Also when I did that the fuel light came on the dash indicating the car knows its not empty when the fuel sender is plugged in.

And the voltage is very recent. Shows 0 all the time. Alternator seems ok? Voltage jumps on the battery when car is running.
 
Thanks for your reply!

Progressive over the last couple years.

AFAIK the oil pressure has never really worked in the couple years I've owned the car. Once when I was driving it was actually working, but its typically spiked off the chart high, even when off.

The fuel used to work. Then on the primary tank it quit, then on the secondary tank too. Whats bizarre is for the primary it shows empty all the time, and for secondary it shows off the chart full. My guess was sender but when I popped the plug the resistance across the tank side pins seemed right. Also when I did that the fuel light came on the dash indicating the car knows its not empty when the fuel sender is plugged in.

And the voltage is very recent. Shows 0 all the time. Alternator seems ok? Voltage jumps on the battery when car is running.

Considering that you have 3 instruments on the combo meter that are not functioning correctly or at all, I would check to make sure that the combo meter electrical connections are clean and properly seated. Of the possible fixes available, It’s the easiest thing to do….
Might keep you from chasing ghosts.

After cleaning and reconnecting the combo meter electrical connections, if the problem persists, you can start searching this forum for repair advice. There’s an awful lot of proven solutions available on IH8MUD. It all depends upon your particular circumstance.

Engine oil pressure sending unit has known issues with age.

I would check the electrical connections at the combo meter first… then check all of your engine bay ground connection points.

 
Clock spring finally replaced and steering is like day one, smooth as can be. No more scraping or odd noises. All functions were working before. Another job that I should have tackled sooner.

Engine seems to accelerate stronger since replacing fuel filter yesterday. Might just be my imagination. Engine was running smooth before so that hasn't changed.
 
Clock spring finally replaced and steering is like day one, smooth as can be. No more scraping or odd noises. All functions were working before. Another job that I should have tackled sooner.

Engine seems to accelerate stronger since replacing fuel filter yesterday. Might just be my imagination. Engine was running smooth before so that hasn't changed.
How many miles on old fuel filter? I have 200k and not sure if its ever been done.
 
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