Gauge Failure

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pmccumber

pmccumber

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
May 16, 2008
Threads
31
Messages
364
Location
Longmont, CO
This morning my oil pressure and tachometer failed on my 2003. No readout whatsoever. Happened on the way in. Drove it to lunch and back and when pulling back into work it they came back.

So its intermittent.

See attached pic.

Something has got to be loose. Where?
image.webp
 
Had the cluster out to maybe replace a bulb? If so (or otherwise) there are two big multipin connectors behind the cluster that need ot be in full contact. I thought I'd screwed it all the way and found similar thing to yours, some gauges worked, some didn't.
 
Hmmm, pull the black trim piece off below the cluster housing, unplug the plug for the dimmer switch and tighten the two screws for the gauge plugs.
 
Any luck on a fix? My 2005 literally just did this for the first time today. Cluster has not previously been removed to my knowledge.
 
After I replaced my bulbs in the gauge cluster I had problems with the two plugs losing connection. If you haven't pulled the panel before, its a pretty cool design, however it has failed every time I have removed it. There are two plugs, one on each side. There is a screw that sucks the plug into place securely (in theory). When I tighten my screws they feel like they tighten, then pop like they are skipping threads but not stripped. So, I tighten them just enough to get snug before they pop. Its tricky but it works, at least thats my issue. It was affecting more than one gauge when not connected. Perhaps teflon tape would help thicken up the screw so it stops jumping a tread, or a bigger screw. Not sure if this helps but it sounds like the same issue I had.
 
Actually, just finished taking the cluster out and checking the two screws you mentioned. The screws did the same thing you described, however I had no luck in getting the gauge to come back to life. I'm reviewing the FSM now for clues
 
Oakleyguy said:
Actually, just finished taking the cluster out and checking the two screws you mentioned. The screws did the same thing you described, however I had no luck in getting the gauge to come back to life. I'm reviewing the FSM now for clues
Click to expand...
So, when I tighten the screws, I let them "pop" then the next time around I stop before the pop. You have to let the threads pop a few times to feel when to stop the turn. Also, make sure the screw is grabbing the plug too. I was missing the treads completely a couple times. It has to be just right and its such a pain to get your hand in there. Good luck.
 
No luck, tried retightening the harness bolts today.

I have noticed, that after the truck has sat and I unlock it, the Tach, Oil, and Fuel gauges are "twitching." However, upon starting the truck, only the tach is inoperable.

Battery checks out ok, sitting at 12.4V with the vehicle off. All three gauge/meter fuses are good.

:bang:
 
Oakleyguy said:
No luck, tried retightening the harness bolts today.

I have noticed, that after the truck has sat and I unlock it, the Tach, Oil, and Fuel gauges are "twitching." However, upon starting the truck, only the tach is inoperable.

Battery checks out ok, sitting at 12.4V with the vehicle off. All three gauge/meter fuses are good.

:bang:
Click to expand...

Ever get this resolved? My lx470 tach started having the twitch at start then sitting idle. Had it at the dealer for a recall yesterday and they told me roughly $1500 to resolve.

I tried reseating this and it didn't help, tried turning the 10mm bolt until it almost clicked, didn't help. Will try to pull this out this weekend if timing permits.
 
Check for water leaks around your windshield. I had a leaky window and water was dripping on the wires and relays under the dash, causing all sorts of weird issues exactly like OP reported. New windshield and no more problems.
 
planomateo said:
Ever get this resolved? My lx470 tach started having the twitch at start then sitting idle. Had it at the dealer for a recall yesterday and they told me roughly $1500 to resolve.

I tried reseating this and it didn't help, tried turning the 10mm bolt until it almost clicked, didn't help. Will try to pull this out this weekend if timing permits.
Click to expand...

It's some sort of grounding issue. Mine 'resolved' itself, but I extremely carefully retightened the mounting bolts. Additionally, I went through the engine bay and made sure all the body grounds were clean and tight.
 
I just replaced the bulbs in my cluster on a 2000 LC. All the lights work but now I have no guages. I reseated 3 times. The screws for seating the plug seem to turn endlessly with no clicking. Does anyone have any tricks to get them back on?
 
Petergoose1 said:
I just replaced the bulbs in my cluster on a 2000 LC. All the lights work but now I have no guages. I reseated 3 times. The screws for seating the plug seem to turn endlessly with no clicking. Does anyone have any tricks to get them back on?
Click to expand...
Mine does the same thing. I wrote about it above on this page. Not sure what the deal is.
 
They're designed that way so you can't over tighten them and crush/crack the pins. They pass through threads to suck the pins on the cluster down on to the base and then spin one they're seated.

Helps to keep info in just one thread. Check that you didn't bend any pins on the cluster, even slightly.
 
Glory! Thanks Trunk! In the daylight with rested hands, I did as you said. I have lights and all guages are working again!
 
Technical question: 2005 100 series. Has anyone ever lost their tachometer and oil pressure gauge at the same time? My Scangauge is showing the correct RPM’s so the computer is receiving the data from the sensor. I confirmed I have oil pressure too so I’m wondering if there’s a common fuse or other point to those two gauges? Maybe the cluster itself? Any ideas are appreciated.
 
I know it's an old thread but I'm having the exact same issue with the tachometer and oil gauge not functioning. I've not attempted to tighten any of the screws I read about in the above thread. Are they under the black trim piece below the cluster? Does the trim piece come out easily without tools or will I need a pry bar to get to trim piece out? I'm a little lost here. Any help is appreciated.
 
Yes, I found them but they turn until they "pop" like they're stripped. I'll pull the cluster in the next few days to see if I can find any lose connections.
 
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