What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Hi, can You write part numbers for the seals used? Thanks
It's better if you get the list from your local dealership because my receipts don't mention which door that part number [x] is for. Further, the body trim is color matched to my Lexus interior (Ivory). So, if you used my part numbers, you may get a color or fabric that doesn't match your interior.

Or use Genuine OEM Lexus Parts and Accessories Online - Lexus Parts Now - https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/
 
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On a recent trip I ended up snapping the rear sway bar. I’ve never seen a factory sway bar break like this. (Side note, my custom extended end links were stronger than expected.)
 
To Do: 2x pop-out windows (Gotta figure out how to remove the glass. Any help will be appreciated.)
Pop off the plastic interior around the window. The hinge bolts at the rear and the motor at the front. You will probably need to remove the rear seat belt as well.
 
Finally replaced the worn-out momentary switches on the HVAC controls. Did the AC, recirc, defroster, heated mirror, and rear fan buttons. Wow what a world of difference this makes!

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I used TE FSM4JRT switches from Mouser. They're dirt cheap. Highly recommend this upgrade for anyone who's comfortable with simple PCB work.
I need to do this too. Parts are here, just gotta get one of those round tuit things. :/
Me too! Any tips to this specific jobs or PCB board work?

Closest I’ve come is some vintage Pioneer work
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View attachment 4074148-6 degrees at noon today here In kansas - decided the rig was going to stay warm for it

120$ run all night keep the rig warm setup 100% self contained and can transport from rig to rig via quick pins for mounting

Slap a y on the ducting and splits off for the extra ground tent so all parties are warm

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Oh this is a phenomenal way of carrying the heater, fantastic work! How sturdy is the heater while driving? And does it loosen on the trail?
 
We're working on a top end refresh. Any adds/deletes/comments on
CategoryComponentPart NumberQty
ExhaustManifold Gasket (Head)17173-500212
Exhaust Stud (M10)90116-1014616
Exhaust Nut90080-1718716
Engine SealsValve Cover Gasket (RH/LH)11213-50031 / 11214-500111ea
Spark Plug Tube Seal11193-500108
VC Bolt Washer Seal90210-0700118
PCV SystemPCV Valve12204-500201
PCV Grommet90480-180011
PCV Ventilation Hose12261-500501
Hoses/ClipsVacuum Hose No. 190999-920021
Hose, Fuel Vapor23829-500301
Coolant Bypass Grommet90480-110252
Rear HatchChrome Garnish76801-600301
Garnish Clips (Set)90467-10161 / 76817-600104 / 2
LightingCorner Lamps (RH/LH)81611-60220 / 81621-602001ea
CategoryComponentPart NumberQty
Front TrimBumper Filler (C / RH / LH)52511-60901-J0 / 52512-60900-J0 / 52513-60900-J01ea
Filler Panel Clip90467-091796
Intake/SteerIntake Air Pipe / Resonator17881-50010 / 17894-500101ea
Steering Yoke / Pinch Bolts45203-60090 / 90119-085471 / 2
FIPG 103 Sealant00295-001031

Specialty (Performance & Infrastructure)

  • Headers: Doug Thorley THY-561-SS-C (Shorties, CA Smog Legal).
  • Hoses: Parker 801-6 (3/8") and 801-10 (5/8") — 5ft and 3ft for Power Steering lines.
 
We're working on a top end refresh. Any adds/deletes/comments on
CategoryComponentPart NumberQty
ExhaustManifold Gasket (Head)17173-500212
Exhaust Stud (M10)90116-1014616
Exhaust Nut90080-1718716
Engine SealsValve Cover Gasket (RH/LH)11213-50031 / 11214-500111ea
Spark Plug Tube Seal11193-500108
VC Bolt Washer Seal90210-0700118
PCV SystemPCV Valve12204-500201
PCV Grommet90480-180011
PCV Ventilation Hose12261-500501
Hoses/ClipsVacuum Hose No. 190999-920021
Hose, Fuel Vapor23829-500301
Coolant Bypass Grommet90480-110252
Rear HatchChrome Garnish76801-600301
Garnish Clips (Set)90467-10161 / 76817-600104 / 2
LightingCorner Lamps (RH/LH)81611-60220 / 81621-602001ea
CategoryComponentPart NumberQty
Front TrimBumper Filler (C / RH / LH)52511-60901-J0 / 52512-60900-J0 / 52513-60900-J01ea
Filler Panel Clip90467-091796
Intake/SteerIntake Air Pipe / Resonator17881-50010 / 17894-500101ea
Steering Yoke / Pinch Bolts45203-60090 / 90119-085471 / 2
FIPG 103 Sealant00295-001031

Specialty (Performance & Infrastructure)

  • Headers: Doug Thorley THY-561-SS-C (Shorties, CA Smog Legal).
  • Hoses: Parker 801-6 (3/8") and 801-10 (5/8") — 5ft and 3ft for Power Steering lines.
Is there any reason to look for a new (super expensive as they are discontinued intake air pipe / resonator) vs a silicone air cleaner intake like Pardon Our Interruption... - https://www.ebay.com/itm/317068362965 with HPS resonator cap / clamps
 
Posted about this somewhere else, but had a high voltage warning pop up the other night along with my stereo going out entirely. Thanks to @NoVaGator I "inspected" the fusible link setup and (after breaking a couple of brittle plastic pieces) bought a replacement from Cruiser Patch. Got it in and it fixed my issue. Now to figure out what (apparent) fuse blew that's keeping my primary amp from working.

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New Perry Parts bump stops install. Fronts on. Rears are next. My largest crescent wrench was just a little bit shy of fitting around the OEM bumps so a pipe wrench worked fine for removal. I let them soak in PB Blaster for 10 minutes or so

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New ParryParts bump stops install. Fronts on. Rears are next. My largest crescent wrench was just a little bit shy of fitting around the OEM bumps so a pipe wrench worked fine for removal. I let them soak in PB Blaster for 10 minutes or so

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Nice! I have these on the shelf. I’ve tried a couple of different wrenches and haven’t been able to get a good grip on it.
 
Nice! I have these on the shelf. I’ve tried a couple of different wrenches and haven’t been able to get a good grip on it.
Pipe wrench will do it although it's pretty tight in there so it's pretty small turns. And they are fine threads so at first it seems like the OEM bump stops are not dropping down out of the housing but they are.
 
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