cruiserpatch
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What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
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Installed the Trail Tailor rear tire swing.
imperium
SILVER Star
Thanks guys! Going to remove the rear carpet tomorrow and see where that oil spilled
After having no drive a week back, finally had time to drag into the garage today. Literally drag into garage, used the other cruiser to pull it around, then winch itself fully into the garage.
Pulled all the skids off, and started looking around. Nothing around the Tcase or trans...but found my front right CV had yeeted itself out the hub, and was jammed against the lower control arm...not fully out, but out to the point it shaved the splines off the CV.
The C clip was loose in the dust cap. When pulling the flange off, bearing retainers crumbled out.....bearing is vaporized.
So, perhaps bearing seized up, superheated the CV, and heated the clip whilst also exerting extra angles, and the clip released. Was at this wheel less than 300 miles ago, and zero play.
So ordered up CV, full bearing kit, fresh nuts / washers / seals / adjusting nuts / etc.
Pulled all the skids off, and started looking around. Nothing around the Tcase or trans...but found my front right CV had yeeted itself out the hub, and was jammed against the lower control arm...not fully out, but out to the point it shaved the splines off the CV.
The C clip was loose in the dust cap. When pulling the flange off, bearing retainers crumbled out.....bearing is vaporized.
So, perhaps bearing seized up, superheated the CV, and heated the clip whilst also exerting extra angles, and the clip released. Was at this wheel less than 300 miles ago, and zero play.
So ordered up CV, full bearing kit, fresh nuts / washers / seals / adjusting nuts / etc.
Replaced the stamped sheet metal lower winch cover with 10 gauge steel for giggles for something to do on this cold Missouri Saturday. The original stamped steel cover gets beat up in Moab so bad that I'm hammering it back into shape each evening.
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ICON Alloys Rebound Pro, Bronze, 17 x 8.5 / 5 x 150, 25mm Offset, 5.75" BS
i will say the bead retention setup makes re balancing them a huge pain with normal tire shops. You have to put antisieze on each bolt, and Vaseline on the o-rings on the end of the bolts. If they balance up badly and need to be rotated on the beads, you have to de-pressurize and back every bolt out to flush with the inside of the wheel so you don't catch the edge of a bolt while debeading. Then the o-rings are usually damaged or smushed from torquing them (they still seal from experience). That being said only my spare balanced up badly and they put 10oz of on it after rotating it on the bead twice before i gave up. I plan to make htem re-balance it when i rotate my tires, but again huge pain to deal with the beadlock unless you go with a shop that deals with it for you, but americas tire let me torque it myself so i had to babysit them
Replaced the original Washer nozzle on my 2000 LX470 with the correct one
Wow, that engine bay looks clean enough to eat off of
Oh nice! I've been meaning to replace mine; I heard somewhere that brand-new Honda Odyssey washer nozzles are a direct fit with better performance, so maybe I'll go that route.
Also, kudos on that engine bay!
Let’s just say my engine bay did not look that good a week ago
let’s just say my engine bay didn’t look that clean a week ago
Totally looking into some mounted air compressor solution for that area right now. I need a good backup for when my co2 tank is empty, which is frequent because I'm too lazy to get it refilled at the local welding supply shop. Was looking at a small single compressor. Really surprised you got that beast of a compressor in there!
Perfect size for that area, surprisingly.
Big week of little projects -
Also started an extremely OCD, color-coded maintenance log that I copied from a Doug Demuro video. Oddly satisfying to put every job into the spreadsheet for posterity.
- Oil change (OEM filter / Rotella T4 15W40) - wish I'd done 10W30 for the cold weather but pressure's barely above half on the gauge
- Fog light bulb replacement
- Pin 7 mod (finally)
- Stanadyne Performance diesel additive
- Replaced leather steering wheel cover (Loncky)
- Cabin air filters (OEM, <1 year in Korea and they're black)
- Lubricated front window tracks with silicone
- Went crazy with a label maker to put date / odometer on maintenance items (oil / fuel filters, timing / fan belts, etc.)
- Lined center console with foam to mitigate rattling at idle
- Wash/wax - road salt season!
- ATF swap ~2L (Royal Purple Max ATF). Why's it so hard to get a stable reading with the dipstick? I used a fluid extractor that went into a big drum - not smart because no way to know how much I removed. Basically eyeballed it and have been constantly checking the level to get it dialed in. Cold, it reads overfilled in the hot range. Hot, it reads low in the cold range! Next time I'd just drain it from the pan into a graduated bucket and replace the same amount, like everyone says to do. It shifts like butter though so at least there's that.
Also started an extremely OCD, color-coded maintenance log that I copied from a Doug Demuro video. Oddly satisfying to put every job into the spreadsheet for posterity.
My CVs were slinging grease everywhere but not making any noise so I rebuilt/rebooted them and got some of the CVJ high angle boots for the inner. Definitely a two person job getting that boot on
Driver side took me all day but was able to finish out the passenger side in about 5 hours vice 7
Also changed out axle seals while I was in there, might as well.
Driver side took me all day but was able to finish out the passenger side in about 5 hours vice 7
Also changed out axle seals while I was in there, might as well.
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Looks great - what year is your LX I am considering on of these but I can't seem to confirm if all have the same hitch/receiver/bolt pattern under the bumper cover.
Mine is a 2005 thatched the factory through bumper cross member mounted hitch receiver
GTV
SILVER Star
Replaced 4 electrical connectors, replaced an incorrect intake manifold nut and a hose clip. I can finally call my cylinder head off job 100% finished.
Also installed a dc/dc charger and finalized my fridge/power station install.
Also installed a dc/dc charger and finalized my fridge/power station install.
Replaced weather seals:
I was chasing down a water leak in the boot and went nuts. Turns out the offending items were the weather seals for the boot. Upon removal, the boot seals were very grimy with debris.
The truck is noticeably more quiet. Doors require more force to close. Doors open and close with a "THUNK". Not quite the same as a G Wagen, but close
.
Close to $2K spent at the dealership. Worth every penny, though. Easy enough to do myself (with patience). I'm gonna put this job up there with updating maintenance, fresh fluids, tires, suspension refresh, and wiper blades when refreshing old cars. Money well-spent.
To Do: 2x pop-out windows (Gotta figure out how to remove the glass. Any help will be appreciated.)
- 8 for doors (2 for each door. 1 on door, 1 on body)
- 2 for rear hatch
- 1 for the sunroof glass
- 1 for the windshield (the top one was letting water through)
I was chasing down a water leak in the boot and went nuts. Turns out the offending items were the weather seals for the boot. Upon removal, the boot seals were very grimy with debris.
The truck is noticeably more quiet. Doors require more force to close. Doors open and close with a "THUNK". Not quite the same as a G Wagen, but close
.Close to $2K spent at the dealership. Worth every penny, though. Easy enough to do myself (with patience). I'm gonna put this job up there with updating maintenance, fresh fluids, tires, suspension refresh, and wiper blades when refreshing old cars. Money well-spent.
To Do: 2x pop-out windows (Gotta figure out how to remove the glass. Any help will be appreciated.)
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I also replaced the stinky boot carpet (mildew from the previous owner ignoring the leak). While the carpet was out, I removed all of the mildewed 3rd-row seat attachment points and tie-down rings and cleaned them then spray painted them matte black. It was a fair amount of tedious work, but the results were nice. It really cleaned up the boot area.
Before (they were all like this):
After:
I even cleaned and painted all of the screw and bolt heads.
Before (they were all like this):
After:
I even cleaned and painted all of the screw and bolt heads.
Hi, can You write part numbers for the seals used? ThanksReplaced weather seals:
View attachment 4079542
- 8 for doors (2 for each door. 1 on door, 1 on body)
- 2 for rear hatch
- 1 for the sunroof glass
- 1 for the windshield (the top one was letting water through)
I was chasing down a water leak in the boot and went nuts. Turns out the offending items were the weather seals for the boot. Upon removal, the boot seals were very grimy with debris.
The truck is noticeably more quiet. Doors require more force to close. Doors open and close with a "THUNK". Not quite the same as a G Wagen, but close
Close to $2K spent at the dealership. Worth every penny, though. Easy enough to do myself (with patience). I'm gonna put this job up there with updating maintenance, fresh fluids, tires, suspension refresh, and wiper blades when refreshing old cars. Money well-spent.
To Do: 2x pop-out windows (Gotta figure out how to remove the glass. Any help will be appreciated.)