What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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mrkdwrds said:
This helped the refueling smell quite a bit so I guess I was due. My hoses around the canister generally looked ok but I’ll probably do the easily accessible ones at some point just for peace of mind.

If it’s bad in the cabin maybe look into the hose in the engine bay that (I think) routes vapors into the intake? It’s connected to some vacuum lines I believe, if you look up the Partsouq diagram that includes the charcoal canister it’s a hose at the front of the vehicle.
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Funny that you mentioned that; I'm in the middle of replacing my starter and I noticed that both of the PCV hoses were cracked. I'd decided to order new OEM ones in the interim just because "while I'm there", so hopefully that helps to resolve the issue.

In regards to the charcoal canister, what year was your cruiser? And were you able to find an OEM replacement? Either my 2000 doesn't seem to have any new ones available or I have the wrong part number so I might end up rebuilding mine.
 
ChroniclerCruiser said:
Funny that you mentioned that; I'm in the middle of replacing my starter and I noticed that both of the PCV hoses were cracked. I'd decided to order new OEM ones in the interim just because "while I'm there", so hopefully that helps to resolve the issue.

In regards to the charcoal canister, what year was your cruiser? And were you able to find an OEM replacement? Either my 2000 doesn't seem to have any new ones available or I have the wrong part number so I might end up rebuilding mine.
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The hose on my '04 that I was referencing is 7775460270, it is not on the PCV diagram but rather the charcoal canister hose diagram:
1768839130193.webp

Unfortunately that part is discontinued but replacing the hose sections with generic shouldn't be too hard.

I was able to source a new canister for my '04 via Serra recently, not sure on potential substitutes for the earlier ones. To confirm your part number, punch your VIN into Partsouq, search for "charcoal", and the diagram like the one above but for your specific vehicle will pop up. Makes finding part numbers really easy and you can be sure you have the right one, especially where multiple different parts have been used throughout the years.
 
mrkdwrds said:
The hose on my '04 that I was referencing is 7775460270, it is not on the PCV diagram but rather the charcoal canister hose diagram:
View attachment 4070778
Unfortunately that part is discontinued but replacing the hose sections with generic shouldn't be too hard.

I was able to source a new canister for my '04 via Serra recently, not sure on potential substitutes for the earlier ones. To confirm your part number, punch your VIN into Partsouq, search for "charcoal", and the diagram like the one above but for your specific vehicle will pop up. Makes finding part numbers really easy and you can be sure you have the right one, especially where multiple different parts have been used throughout the years.
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Read through this short thread…

Not sure about this fitment on an’04… For my 2002 LX, I used part # 77754-60231, which has lots of length, and the same formed shape. It simply does not have the green test port. So, I cut the hose at the proper length to use my original green test port, and the balance of the new hose on the other side of the green test port, with my original hose clamps. Looks OEM original perfect and works great. That part is available and the price is right.

A

Thread 'Hoses - Toyota 77754-60240Hose, Charcoal Canister Outlet'

I can't seem to find

Toyota 77754-60240​

Hose, Charcoal Canister Outlet

the one that is on my lc now is dry rotted. Any ideas.. I did see this kit 100 Series 2UZ Vacuum and Vapor Hose Kit - https://absolute-wits-end.com/100-series-2uz-vacuum-and-vapor-hose-kit/ but that item is not included.
 
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offoradjunkie said:
Do you know if the Slee mount will work with

Air Compressor CKSA12​

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I would say absolutely, although not by design.
My recollection is that the Slee tray with compressor mount is basically a L with the big arm being mounted downward & horizontal and the small arm frontward & vertical. The space provided for the compressor has a floor, but the dual compressor has its mounting orientation in the vertical plane from the front of the truck direction, designed to be accessible after the tray has been installed.
The

Air Compressor CKSA12​

Appears to be designed to mount to a horizontal surface. I would be comfortable with mounting the CKSA12 to the horizontal bottom portion of the slee tray.

It will require drilling new holes at a minimum.
I’d use 1/4-20 rivet nuts once I drilled mounting holes, and “lock” mounting bolts in with from bottom up, a hex head bolt, fender washer(greater diameter than rivet nut), rivet nuts once in base plate, another fender washer, & finally a slim nut(red loctite on rivet nut & slim nut thread).
Maybe super overkill, but I’d be confident of that being a “one & done” solution in a high temperature fluctuating & high vibration environment.
 
Washed it and knocked out two small projects I’ve been putting off. First was installing a helicoil insert for a stripped skid plate threaded insert in the frame, and second was replacing my corroded positive battery terminal. I also did the fusible link assembly which was in fine shape but was missing the positive terminal cover, I figure I’ll keep the old one as a spare.
 
Been a while since I posted much in here. Lately I’ve mainly been chasing a front suspension wiggle out- the last bit is probably the lower shock mount bushings, ordered the rest of the parts for that a couple days ago. If when I pull it all apart the lower bal joints aren’t awesome I’ll do this then too. Alongside all that, been working on getting the last of the serpentine belt stuff cleaned up, that was most of summer’s activity on the ol boy. All currently new except for the AC compressor and the line that goes from it across top of engine bay. That’s what leaked (slow at first, got faster over time), and it leaked because 26yrs and ~275k miles is evidently all the standoffs that hold that crossover pipe in place had in em. Specifically there’s a flex bushing in em that finally was done… being flexible. Both of em flexed until they just broke. Replacements on the way, then all THAT gets updated and maybe for a second or two stuff will stay good.

Today’s project is more visual, so it gets a before and after pic. The new covers (covers not replacement skins like lseat, etc) are from seat covers unlimited and cost $320 for the front row. I didn’t get the back row along with because I wanted to be sure I loved these… and I do. I texted them via their site this morning and they’ll still offer 40% off (same as they do currently if you buy a back row along with front) if I go on and get it done. Leaning hard that direction.

Seat covers are the nicest part in the truck now. 😂 It’s pretty weird to get in and see that instead of the usual old-truck thrashed-seat thing. I’ll get used to it.

IMG_2261.webp


IMG_3277.webp
 
wrigh003 said:
Been a while since I posted much in here. Lately I’ve mainly been chasing a front suspension wiggle out- the last bit is probably the lower shock mount bushings, ordered the rest of the parts for that a couple days ago. If when I pull it all apart the lower bal joints aren’t awesome I’ll do this then too. Alongside all that, been working on getting the last of the serpentine belt stuff cleaned up, that was most of summer’s activity on the ol boy. All currently new except for the AC compressor and the line that goes from it across top of engine bay. That’s what leaked (slow at first, got faster over time), and it leaked because 26yrs and ~275k miles is evidently all the standoffs that hold that crossover pipe in place had in em. Specifically there’s a flex bushing in em that finally was done… being flexible. Both of em flexed until they just broke. Replacements on the way, then all THAT gets updated and maybe for a second or two stuff will stay good.

Today’s project is more visual, so it gets a before and after pic. The new covers (covers not replacement skins like lseat, etc) are from seat covers unlimited and cost $320 for the front row. I didn’t get the back row along with because I wanted to be sure I loved these… and I do. I texted them via their site this morning and they’ll still offer 40% off (same as they do currently if you buy a back row along with front) if I go on and get it done. Leaning hard that direction.

Seat covers are the nicest part in the truck now. 😂 It’s pretty weird to get in and see that instead of the usual old-truck thrashed-seat thing. I’ll get used to it.

View attachment 4072732

View attachment 4072733
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Great fabric choice!
 
Couple things I failed to post at the time.
Escape Gear seat covers for the ‘04. Love them so far.

IMG_6137.webp


Also—what a pain—bought some rubber floor mats for the JDM. Ordered from motoquipe in AUS, but they’ve stopped shipping to the US, so I had to use a freight forwarder—kind of an elaborate/expensive way to do it but LHD mats wouldn’t work well at all…
IMG_6915.webp


And I fixed one floppy third row seat in the JDM 100–Velcro had actually torn completely off one side of the strap, and I found a discussion on here of using rafting strap buckles, so I ordered some straps from NRS and did this! It’s rock solid. When I do the other side I’ll take the time to find some beige thread😂

IMG_6925.webp
 
akrafty1 said:
What did you use? I am getting ready to do the same project.
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More detailed thread

1. Make sure to only remove the glass with the 4 10mm bolts under the plastic trim.
2. Only a very small application of weather strip sealer. After I put on the seal I used a trim removal tool to pull back the lip of the seal a made a very very light application. A lot is not needed- I almost skipped it entirely.

blklnamru

Thread 'DIY: Sunroof Weatherstrip Replacement'

So since last year November time frame, I've have a leak from my sunroof. After cleaning the drains, the rails, and everything possible, I was able to isolate the issue to a bad weatherstrip. I bought the replacement, but never had the time then since I was T-1 week to leave on my 7k mile road trip from CA to NY and back. I decided to seal the roof with a few good layers painters tape. It didn't look great, but it held up from December till now, in a wide range of weather. Snow, rain, sleet, hail, high winds, sand storms, -20 to 120 degrees. No issues. It's only that last week I had some...
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I replaced the tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and drive belt. The belt and idler pulley are OEM. The tensioner pulley had to be investigated a little deeper. I found a match on eBay. Works perfectly for those of us with the larger tensioner pulley.

ebay.us

49100 ContiTech Accessory Belt Tension Pulley for Lexus SC430 Toyota Sequoia | eBay

ContiTech Accessory Belt Tension Pulley --. A leading rubber products group of Continental AG, ContiTech is a world-renowned manufacturer of cutting-edge automotive belts and power transmission parts.
ebay.us

IMG_4143.webp


IMG_4142.webp
 
Gartenmeister said:
How hard was this to do? Link to instructions?
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Pretty easy. It took me about 15 minutes with the help of my 16-year-old son for an extra set of hands.

Tools:
14mm socket and long-handled ratchet.

Belt release:

1. Release tension on belt by turning the bolt in the center of the pulley left using the 14mm socket and ratchet.
2. Slip the belt off the tensioner pulley.

Tensioner pulley:

1. Turn the bolt right to loosen it. It is reverse threaded.
2. Remove the old pulley and install the new one, turning the bolt to the left.

Idler pulley:

1. Turn the bolt left to loosen it.
2. Remove the old pulley and install the new one, turning the bolt to the right.

Belt:

Thread the old belt off the pulleys and follow the routing diagram (mine was on the hood) to install the new belt. It really helps to have another set of hands to hold tension on the belt while you route it.

Notes:
1. Since my Land Cruiser is a 2001, it had the bigger pulley. I would have just replaced the entire tensioner with the newer style, but I was able to find a replacement part for the larger 4-inch pulley. It was a Continental 49100 that was exactly the same as the one I pulled off on inspection. The old one may or may not have been OEM. I don't know.
2. The serpentine belt and idler pulley were OEM.
3. If I would have had the time, I would have upgraded by replacing the entire tensioner. The old-style larger pulley is still available, but I don't know if it is being produced currently. Maybe next time.
 
Eventually I need a full stainless exhaust but stock quiet—maybe with a valve 😊. I love v8 sounds and a throaty exhaust but it’s not for me everyday.
 
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