What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (72 Viewers)
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I recently installed a brand new OEM steering rack myself (full time mechanic here. Have installed dozens of racks).
After install I noticed my steering wheel doesn't stay perfectly centered. 90% of the time it stays centered. After a sharp left turn or U turn my wheel is slightly off center.
I had a helper turn the wheel, while I watched the rack...it moved A TON left and right.
Just curious if you had any similarities with the new oem rack. I bought superpo rack bushings to stop the movement. Will install soon.
I hadn't noticed anything tbh, maybe a little rough feeling when full lock. Car had gone in for a service and I'd asked the guy to have a look over for anything which might be a future repair. He said the rack was quite worn and had some significant play, didn't tell me not to drive it, but did say the risk was I'd lose steering if it went. Figured that was a justifiable repair! But I'm new to LC's. Otherwise, drives fine to me! (Smoother than my 2016 Focus actually)
After my rack install I had a similar issue where my steering wheel was off one or two teeth. Had to remove and reinstall it.
It was noticeable when I was in the left lane with a left leaning grade. Right lane with a right leaning grade the wheel was straight.
I suspect you may have the same issue. If resetting the wheel for perfectly flat level driving does not solve it, make sure everything is kosher with no slop or binding. Get the front wheels off the ground and move the steering wheel left and right to see or hear what’s happing.
My rack is perfectly centered. Equal turns left to right at the steering wheel. The rack itself is moving left and right at the mount points. The poly rack bushings I got will stop the rack from moving.
With the right wheel and tire combination, and where your turn stops are set, at full lock you can get rubbing on the little shields for the steering bellows.
Nice score! All for free? How?
All free and just emailed them asking about the 300k mileage sticker. I feel like this was the wrong email address that I used the first time. The link I posted about the sticker is for Toyota Social. My first email went to Toyota Brand Engagement.
I had the same issue and it would set off the VSC as well. Turned out it was the rack bushings.
Jim
Came home from vacation to find my LX unlocked and dead battery, thankfully in the garage. I think I forgot to lock the doors. I'm seeing posts that this can drain the battery. Has this happened to anyone else? I also have a GROM unit installed but that's supposed to power down after 15-20 min. It's a bit of a mystery. I have a trickle charger I may just hook up next time I'm away for a while.
I had to take the thing to Interstate to get it tested and charged up. (AGM + fuse mod)
I had to take the thing to Interstate to get it tested and charged up. (AGM + fuse mod)
How old's the battery and how long have you been gone?
Got the Alamosa Antenna tilt mount installed so I can go through drive-thrus again 
Bought in December and I was gone 3 weeks.
ok, so battery is generally fresh and I'd be surprised if a new battery can't keep up with 3 weeks under normal conditions.
I'd take a tour, charge up the battery. Turn it off, open the hood and close door unlocked. the disconnect the negative terminal, set a multimeter on amps DC and put it in line between the neg cable and terminal. Then check every 2-5 min the power draw. I think rule of thumbs is that 20-50 mamps a considered normal. Seeing 3 digits and you confirm a parasitic draw.
Then it's about disconnecting aux stuff and pulling fuses until the draw goes down.
This way I already found a bad navigation display on a Ford, a bad window regulator motor on the rear passenger on a VW Passat, ...
Edit: you can do the same with locked doors to confirm it powers down after 15-20min...
I'd take a tour, charge up the battery. Turn it off, open the hood and close door unlocked. the disconnect the negative terminal, set a multimeter on amps DC and put it in line between the neg cable and terminal. Then check every 2-5 min the power draw. I think rule of thumbs is that 20-50 mamps a considered normal. Seeing 3 digits and you confirm a parasitic draw.
Then it's about disconnecting aux stuff and pulling fuses until the draw goes down.
This way I already found a bad navigation display on a Ford, a bad window regulator motor on the rear passenger on a VW Passat, ...
Edit: you can do the same with locked doors to confirm it powers down after 15-20min...
Changed the front and rear diff. oil and gave her a much needed wash. Transfer case will get done this coming weekend and hopefully the steering rack bushings.. Not looking forward to that.
What's everyone doing to keep their old worn out hub caps in place? I've lost two. Does anyone have an extra one lying around they'd be willing to part with?
What's everyone doing to keep their old worn out hub caps in place? I've lost two. Does anyone have an extra one lying around they'd be willing to part with?
I turned mine into a farm sprayer. The sprayer was designed to go over the tailgate of a UTV so it worked great with the tailgate on the 100. Newly cleared paths on really hilly terrain with some tight turns, stumps and low muddy areas. Stock LC did great carrying about 450 extra pounds of roundup in the back. Had a lawnmower battery on the floor in the back seat with a 12' lead with on/off switch. Could control spray while driving. Doing this so I can hopefully throw a nice whitetail in the back this deer season!
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Added some Escape Gear bling-bling today. 
A moment of silence after 18 years of service, the driver side CV boot has finally submitted its resignation.
Will rebuilding this one as spare but where did you guys order your oem CV?
Will rebuilding this one as spare but where did you guys order your oem CV?
xeuxaz
SILVER Star
Camelback Toyota is local to me and typically has good prices. (No shipping is nice for CVs)
