Thank you for your service. I have listed after the fender rails for years, but all the research points to the fender rails being only compatible with the ARB steps, which aren't AHC compatible
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (60 Viewers)
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Right? Those damn fender rails are too sexy.
The ARB fitment guide listed 2 sets but only one had the 'no worky on AHC' note which is why I rolled the dice. The passenger side just needed the upraised L material cut off to slide under the accumulator towards the rear. On the driver's side the middle support bracket will have to be cut off entirely and the rear bracket similarly trimmed. Cutting the middle bracket doesn't seem like a big deal since all the 'AHC compatible' options just change from 3 supports to 2 and the tube isn't going to bend under stepping-on weight*.
There's an open area further down where the bracket could be mounted, though. Mounting the bracket there and then welding an extension/connector is one of the options I'm considering. Another problem is that there just isn't space to move around the U-bolt at the back end because of all the AHC stuff. If you can work it under the hard lines, you can't pull it back far enough to feed through the bracket holes. One of the options I'm looking at there is to use two bolts instead of the U-bolt which I can feed from the outer side where there's more room to work. The two bolt method will mean I need to make a sturdy mounting plate for the inner rail for the bolts to secure to.
It'll be at least a week, though, since I'll be on vacation and I left the truck up at the shop. I feel like it's doable, but you've gotta want those rails pretty bad and be willing to take on a bit of a project. Here's what I mean by cutting the rear bracket (passenger side):
* Acknowledging that we all accept these aren't sliders.
The ARB fitment guide listed 2 sets but only one had the 'no worky on AHC' note which is why I rolled the dice. The passenger side just needed the upraised L material cut off to slide under the accumulator towards the rear. On the driver's side the middle support bracket will have to be cut off entirely and the rear bracket similarly trimmed. Cutting the middle bracket doesn't seem like a big deal since all the 'AHC compatible' options just change from 3 supports to 2 and the tube isn't going to bend under stepping-on weight*.
There's an open area further down where the bracket could be mounted, though. Mounting the bracket there and then welding an extension/connector is one of the options I'm considering. Another problem is that there just isn't space to move around the U-bolt at the back end because of all the AHC stuff. If you can work it under the hard lines, you can't pull it back far enough to feed through the bracket holes. One of the options I'm looking at there is to use two bolts instead of the U-bolt which I can feed from the outer side where there's more room to work. The two bolt method will mean I need to make a sturdy mounting plate for the inner rail for the bolts to secure to.
It'll be at least a week, though, since I'll be on vacation and I left the truck up at the shop. I feel like it's doable, but you've gotta want those rails pretty bad and be willing to take on a bit of a project. Here's what I mean by cutting the rear bracket (passenger side):
* Acknowledging that we all accept these aren't sliders.
Mounted my old Garmin GPS. I got this unit back in 2008ish and paid for the lifetime maps so until it dies it will be home on my dash. It is due for another map update which I will be doing before we go on a road trip next week. I don’t use it for anything other than speed, what road I’m on and elevation but in a pinch it would still work for directions.
Changed my oil today. I had been going 10k between changes but decided to backtrack a bit and start doing it sooner.
I also shot some lubricant into my steering wheel/clockspring to hopefully get rid of the grinding that happens when its cold out.
And lastly, my front passenger door lock starting making the awful noise that happens when the motor housing/clamshell isn't properly closed up and secured, so I got in there and did what I could. Seems to be fixed, at least for now. Even though it has been a few years since I last got in there to repair the actuators, I did it so many times (removing the door panel in particular) that I think I could do it with my eyes closed.
I also shot some lubricant into my steering wheel/clockspring to hopefully get rid of the grinding that happens when its cold out.
And lastly, my front passenger door lock starting making the awful noise that happens when the motor housing/clamshell isn't properly closed up and secured, so I got in there and did what I could. Seems to be fixed, at least for now. Even though it has been a few years since I last got in there to repair the actuators, I did it so many times (removing the door panel in particular) that I think I could do it with my eyes closed.
I did a slooooooow gear oil change at 0°F after changing the pinion seal and replacing the pinion flange that had a deep groove worn in it.
Took the family Christmas mobbing in the Cruiser, Merry Christmas Mudders!
New Hitachi MAF Sensors and Denso Upstream Oxygen sensors (used for Air-Fuel Ratio). Fuel Short Trim closer to zeroes now 
Was the seal leaking a lot or a little ? Curious to know how much encouragement the flange required to come off- if you had to use a puller? Solid spacer or crush sleeve? What was your final torque setting 181ft lbs or lighter considering the crush sleeve?
I’m about to swap out my (rock damaged) companion flange this week. Taking notes
I've been working on these replacement seat back nets for a bit now, they're available for 80 and 100 series. The ones in my 100 were so bad the PO cut them out, sparked an idea and now I'm ready to share them with you guys. My first batch has been sold and shipped to some awesome cruiserheads throughout the country. I upgraded to a supporting vendor, made a post in the Vendor- General section.
Finally got around to replacing the foam surround on my rear sub. I probably would have broken a few less clips of it wasn’t 20 degrees while I was removing the panels. Overall it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting and now I can add repairing speakers to my skill set. Now all my speakers are back to functional.
Great design! Wrong choice of material. Calling for injuries, just think about your loved ones guys. Sorry dude, had to call this out.
I can appreciate your concern but that same thought found it’s way into the design. The frames themselves have less protrusion into the passenger’s knee area. Aluminum is the softest realistic material besides plastic. I’ve got 4 kids and my 100 is our family vehicle, the location of the seat back frame in it’s installed location doesn’t register as a threat to me. I’m certainly open to suggestions if there’s a common concern.
Seal was leaking... There was a puddle under the diff housing and the housing always had a drip getting ready to drop. I used a 3 jaw puller to remove the flange. I tried to pry it off for about 33 seconds then stopped being obtuse and grabbed the puller and it came off easy. I don't know if the bearing spacer is crush or solid. I did not check torque. The advice I found here on MUD was to count the number of turns it took to remove the flange nut. I reinstalled the nut with the same number of turns, 8 2/3 in my case. My arms indicate the torque was every bit of 180 ft lbs on that last 1/4 turn of the nut.Was the seal leaking a lot or a little ? Curious to know how much encouragement the flange required to come off- if you had to use a puller? Solid spacer or crush sleeve? What was your final torque setting 181ft lbs or lighter considering the crush sleeve?
I’m about to swap out my (rock damaged) companion flange this week. Taking notes
Good luck! Please share your experience
CheersSeal was leaking... There was a puddle under the diff housing and the housing always had a drip getting ready to drop. I used a 3 jaw puller to remove the flange. I tried to pry it off for about 33 seconds then stopped being obtuse and grabbed the puller and it came off easy. I don't know if the bearing spacer is crush or solid. I did not check torque. The advice I found here on MUD was to count the number of turns it took to remove the flange nut. I reinstalled the nut with the same number of turns, 8 2/3 in my case. My arms indicate the torque was every bit of 180 ft lbs on that last 1/4 turn of the nut.
Good luck! Please share your experience
thanks for the detail-I will report back-
No more Ts to worry about! Just in time. Thanks @sr5pickup and @elhombre for pointing me in the right direction.
No more rear heat?
Rear heat is no more. Nobody rides back there except the dog and he’s a big fluffy ****er that only demands rear a/c. I left a little nipple of sorts and capped the rear lines with some sprinkler line caps so in the unlikely hood I change my mind they won’t be all full of dirt by then.
