What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Did you get the other LCA bushing? Seems a shame to get that far and not replace it while you're in there.

ETA: I'm definitely not telling you what to do. Just mentioning it because it's not necessarily obvious that one of the bushings doesn't come with the control arm, so I wanted to make sure you had a heads up so you can get one if you want.
 
Last edited:
PO supposedly did the water pump and timing belt about 25k miles ago, but I seriously doubt it.

after market tb, the wp/gasket was in a terrible state, and the whole area around the crank was caked in oil and dirt. This is after an 18 oz can of non clor brākleen.

Vcg’s are new as of yesterday, cam seals are dry, crank seal is getting replaced.

how bad of shape am I in?

B30DD169-A607-4415-B4C7-016C96E08F7C.jpeg
 
Did you get the other LCA bushing? Seems a shame to get that far and not replace it while you're in there.

ETA: I'm definitely not telling you what to do. Just mentioning it because it's not necessarily obvious that one of the bushings doesn't come with the control arm, so I wanted to make sure you had a heads up so you can get one if you want.

Thanks, but did not get that bushing. Inspected it. Is in good shape.
 
I had my craftsman rivet gun fail halfway through this job and ran out and grabbed an Advance Auto cheapie—worked great.

Thanks!

Upon further inspection, I think I have only one hole that looks factory. From reading the FSM procedure, I'm guessing the holes should only be about 4mm max and mine are closer to 5. Maybe I'll pick up some other size rivets when I pick up a rivet gun.
 
PO supposedly did the water pump and timing belt about 25k miles ago, but I seriously doubt it.

after market tb, the wp/gasket was in a terrible state, and the whole area around the crank was caked in oil and dirt. This is after an 18 oz can of non clor brākleen.

Vcg’s are new as of yesterday, cam seals are dry, crank seal is getting replaced.

how bad of shape am I in?

View attachment 2625241
Not in too bad of shape since you caught it early, and assuming you replace everything with OEM Toyota/Mitsuboshi/Aisin/Koyo. However, there does appear to be some rust on the block and in the main cooling passages, suggesting PO ran straight water for a while at some point. Consider running some thermocure through to clean that rust out before putting new red coolant in.
 
Not in too bad of shape since you caught it early, and assuming you replace everything with OEM Toyota/Mitsuboshi/Aisin/Koyo. However, there does appear to be some rust on the block and in the main cooling passages, suggesting PO ran straight water for a while at some point. Consider running some thermocure through to clean that rust out before putting new red coolant in.
Ok, great. Thanks for the tip! Everything goin in is what you’ve recommended above 👍🏼
 
SS3 MAX fogs baby!!! Made some temporary mounts, and wired up with their “light duty off-road harness”. Should have just made my own but this works. Every inch is in split tube and heat shrunk, etc. They seem 5 times brighter than my low beams. I likes em!
4E2ADA2F-C180-4F6E-9908-BC552723F677.jpeg
A9F74E71-C8E4-4660-89DD-21DC2594CFC3.jpeg

I’ve since painted them, etc.
 
I am seriously considering to do this too. Did you get the sport / pro / max SS3? We drove through Cajun pass at night in San Bernardino CA and wife was driving, it scared the hell out of her, we couldn’t see anything because of the dense fog. I am running 55watts 6000k MiniH1 Morimoto projector clear lenses on my headlights and and Matchbox 2.0 35watts on the factory foglights and the light isn’t piercing through the white fog. I think I need an auxiliary yellow light that can do the job. Any output shots at night?
They are the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, Amber LED Driving/Combo . I figured with all of the work I put in to mounting them, I was going to step top from the Sport. I never got a chance to wire them up when my alternator took a dump taking the battery with it... now the truck is in the shop getting a replacement motor put in... long story. I've seen the lights on other vehicles and they are bright with a great light pattern.
 
Last edited:
Almost done. With one side. 20 banana job.

View attachment 2625483View attachment 2625484
How do you like those TC UCA? I currently have the first gen of the Nitros but when ICON installed my stage 3 suspension this morning they told me I’m gonna need new ones. They recommend me the TC. So after install was done drove down to TC and talked with Pat and showed me around their shop in Corona. Leaning towards them after seeing them fab everything in house during the tour and interview grilling I gave him about why I should buy his UCA over the other guys lol. Little leary with the SPC UCA and their past and the new Nitros or pretty pricey and I like the fact that TV is a half hour away from me if anything does go wrong they back it and I can get it replaced in less than a half hour from my house.
 
Swapped the suspension out this morning. Replaced the Bilsteins with the stage 3 kit from ICON and boy do they feel like I’m floating on a cloud now. ORW new location in Corona did an awesome job with the install and actually had ICON R&D there in house to assist and document my rig. Was originally quoted a 14-16 week build time and they were sitting on my porch last Friday 3 weeks after I put the build order in. Install time was 2 hours at ORW due to rust seized bolts otherwise install would of only taken 40 minutes. Was told I need to replace my first gen NITRO UCA. So what should I get? Went down to Total Chaos around the corner from ORW and grilled Pat why I should buy his UCA over the new Nitros, Blackhawk, Built Right or SPC. Tomorrow I’m grilling Carl at Nitro. Let me hear your guys’ 2 cents?
CF00B86D-8E5F-4218-B9C1-937FC66DD6CF.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I feel like a cross between a hacker, and a master mechanic. I replaced the driver's side front door lock actuator motor on my 100. And, it works, and, nothing was broken, and there are no spare parts! Well, except for the motor I ordered first that ended up being the wrong one. But anyway, VICTORY!!

View attachment 2580839
Ended up doing this yesterday... Had to remove the handle to get the the cables and wasn't quite able to squeeze the lock cylinder back into place between the window track. Any tips for that?
 
Got Blue a fresh alignment. Asked them to max out the camber caster and would you look at beautiful 3 degree camber caster on stock UCAs!
20210325_065317.jpg
 
Last edited:
Swapped the suspension out this morning. Replaced the Bilsteins with the stage 3 kit from ICON and boy do they feel like I’m floating on a cloud now. ORW new location in Corona did an awesome job with the install and actually had ICON R&D there in house to assist and document my rig. Was originally quoted a 14-16 week build time and they were sitting on my porch last Friday 3 weeks after I put the build order in. Install time was 2 hours at ORW due to rust seized bolts otherwise install would of only taken 40 minutes. Was told I need to replace my first gen NITRO UCA. So what should I get? Went down to Total Chaos around the corner from ORW and grilled Pat why I should buy his UCA over the new Nitros, Blackhawk, Built Right or SPC. Tomorrow I’m grilling Carl at Nitro. Let me hear your guys’ 2 cents?
View attachment 2625536
40mins to 2 hours for a stage 3 suspension install? I was quoted $900 for a stage 2 IM suspension.
 
40mins to 2 hours for a stage 3 suspension install? I was quoted $900 for a stage 2 IM suspension.
Out the door ORW charged $387.51 for install. Even with my rust seized nuts that was quicker, charged a flat rate for labor and cheaper than other shops in SoCal within a 80 mile radius of where I lived. Helped that ICON highly recommended them and have a very strong relationship with them and was an added bonus that their research team was there as well. I was getting quotes for stage 3 install from $300- $1100 out the door and install times of 5 hours to a full day. ORW seemed the most competent, efficient and their work is recognized, guaranteed and backed fully by ICON as well as they are an on-site shock service center so I won’t have to take them off and send them in to ICONS rebuild facility in San Dimas, CA. Good to know ICOn warranty isn’t voided since I used an authorized shop. Definitely going back to any of ORW locations when it time to service and rebuild them.
 
Out the door ORW charged $387.51 for install. Even with my rust seized nuts that was quicker, charged a flat rate for labor and cheaper than other shops in SoCal within a 80 mile radius of where I lived. Helped that ICON highly recommended them and have a very strong relationship with them and was an added bonus that their research team was there as well. I was getting quotes for stage 3 install from $300- $1100 out the door and install times of 5 hours to a full day. ORW seemed the most competent, efficient and their work is recognized, guaranteed and backed fully by ICON as well as they are an on-site shock service center so I won’t have to take them off and send them in to ICONS rebuild facility in San Dimas, CA. Good to know ICOn warranty isn’t voided since I used an authorized shop. Definitely going back to any of ORW locations when it time to service and rebuild them.
That is awesome. Wish we had someone like ORW here in NW Arkansas.
 
That is awesome. Wish we had someone like ORW here in NW Arkansas.
I've heard great things about Bohannan Four Wheel Drive in Bentonville
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom