What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (59 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I finally have wheels and tires that are somewhat more aggressive than the soccer-mom 16's that were on it. And of course, it means that I can finally use the 4wd system and have a much better time in the rough stuff. Nothing too rough until I get sliders though- and that's next on the list. The tires are 275/70-18 All Terrains, and it's still at the stock height. I'll probably put spacers and crank the torsion bars to get a little more for now, but no major upgrades there until I get the heavier bumpers.

I'm still not sure if painting was a better solution to powder coating. The paint seems like it wants to chip easily (it already is) but it's got a nicer finish than I think the powder coat would. I'll probably go with the p/coat on my original set of 16" wheels later to try it out.

 
One of the biggest (only) downsides to adding sliders for me is having to remove the front mud guards. Here is what I did:

Clamped OEM flap
image-2074377214.webp

Clamped down 12" by 12" ABS plastic at main forms/bends
image-2169093655.webp

Applied heat with head gun and massaged ABS into place with big screwdriver while also adjusting clamps to form to "mold"
image-3850468308.webp

Drilled holes while clamped together and traced outline before cutting with tin snips. I then took them to the sander to clean them up
image-166928705.webp

Here is one bolted on
image-2576750667.webp

Slightly larger than stock, and fit well. In all it took about 1.5 hrs with 2 completely failed attempts, and 2 with imperfections.

image-2074377214.webp


image-2169093655.webp


image-3850468308.webp


image-2576750667.webp


image-166928705.webp
 
I finally have wheels and tires that are somewhat more aggressive than the soccer-mom 16's that were on it. And of course, it means that I can finally use the 4wd system and have a much better time in the rough stuff. Nothing too rough until I get sliders though- and that's next on the list. The tires are 275/70-18 All Terrains, and it's still at the stock height. I'll probably put spacers and crank the torsion bars to get a little more for now, but no major upgrades there until I get the heavier bumpers. I'm still not sure if painting was a better solution to powder coating. The paint seems like it wants to chip easily (it already is) but it's got a nicer finish than I think the powder coat would. I'll probably go with the p/coat on my original set of 16" wheels later to try it out. http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/n...d-4add-ae9f-a9ed489e9194_zpsba7f7919.jpg.html

Any info on the blinkers mounted on the fender? I've been looking at doing that.
 
One of the biggest (only) downsides to adding sliders for me is having to remove the front mud guards.

Here is one bolted on
View attachment 845330

Slightly larger than stock, and fit well. In all it took about 1.5 hrs with 2 completely failed attempts, and 2 with imperfections.

Nice...I like 'em!
 
Any info on the blinkers mounted on the fender? I've been looking at doing that.

It's something I added for increased visibility (and to CLEARLY signal my intention). Since I don't have anything in the mirrors, this was the next best alternative. I got a pair of used Hella units off of Ebay, got out my Dremel tool, and then tapped into the front turn signals. This is the second vehicle I've done it to. It looks good, and does the job.
 
Swapped diff and xfer fluid for some new valvoline synthetic.

My MPGs have been disappointingly low since removing RTT and Awning. Was lucky to break 14 on a 300 mile hwy trip. Went ahead and swapped original o2 sensors for OEM fresh (thank you Onur)

No data on this yet, but at 155k mi, I'm thinking they were nearing the end of their life.
Did mine 2 months ago.
At first, I thought it was a very good move but after 5 or 6 weeks i realized it's not as good.
Still a better mileage though
Did not replace the rear set yet... maybe better once all 4 are replaced
Posted a thread on this, but crossed into Canada today and had Krown rust preventative treatment applied. Hope it works.
I do it for seven years now on a "from CA" LC and still no rust
But the LC sleep outside all year long and no under body wash (during winter)... both helps a lot.
When I have to park inside, I try to park it as close as possible from the building fan or vent
 
Did mine 2 months ago. At first, I thought it was a very good move but after 5 or 6 weeks i realized it's not as good. Still a better mileage though Did not replace the rear set yet... maybe better once all 4 are replaced

Don't bother with the back 2... They just let you know when the cats are bad... Whereas the front two are for air/fuel.

A win is a win. Even if it's .5mpg, they will pay for themselves in about 30k miles.
 
Don't bother with the back 2... They just let you know when the cats are bad... Whereas the front two are for air/fuel.

A win is a win. Even if it's .5mpg, they will pay for themselves in about 30k miles.
Well, I ordered them and have to remplace them (error code every one or two weeks)
I secretly hope fronts need rear to process a kind of auto calibration, and vice et versa :rolleyes:

But the nuts are too rusty to be removable... I wait for them to be completly dissolved by the salt :D
 
Well, I ordered them and have to remplace them (error code every one or two weeks)
I secretly hope fronts need rear to process a kind of auto calibration, and vice et versa :rolleyes:

But the nuts are too rusty to be removable... I wait for them to be completly dissolved by the salt :D



Did you do an ECU reset and let it learn idle?
 
yes I did (maybe not "learn idle", but i drove 4K miles since,so...)

the engine needs the same amount of gas as before in the same situation, the thing is the sensor ability to "see" a variation in the air/gas mix is much faster ... when i get out of town, the miieage get better faster.
i spend most of the time in the trafic ( my lc is my office), the average (scangauge) was 11/12 and is now 13
 
Had a P0135 CEL. Replaced the old with new Denso's and did an oil change. :)

No more CEL.
 
Decided to make my last day of 2013 happen under my lovely truck.

Starting my front end rebuild.

Parts:
Lower control arms w/ OEM bushings
Sway bar bushings
Tie rods
Front diff support bracket
Front driveshaft rebuild and rebalance
 
Decided to make my last day of 2013 happen under my lovely truck.

Starting my front end rebuild.

Parts:
Lower control arms w/ OEM bushings
Sway bar bushings
Tie rods
Front diff support bracket
Front driveshaft rebuild and rebalance


Nice!
 
Last edited:
First day of the new year, I installed a diff drop kit in preparation for torsion bar indexing and used zip ties to clean out my intercooler and tranny cooler.
Also inspected the spare tire and lubricated the chainblock, shampooed the dirtier areas of the carpet, and found out that the latch for the good is worn out which is what's causing it to shake at highway speeds.
 
There was a diy post some place. Did you look in the thread with the how to replace ball joints? Edit. Found what I was thinking of https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/594616-replacing-lower-control-arm-no-2-bushing.html

Thanks for the link. The MUD app isn't very good at searching. I decided to keep the original in. FYI- a 33mm socket fits perfectly on the OD sleeve of the bushing. Just didn't want to hammer it out to find out I can't get the new one in. Similar findings to Spressomon, it looked to be in good shape.
 
Thanks for the link. The MUD app isn't very good at searching. I decided to keep the original in. FYI- a 33mm socket fits perfectly on the OD sleeve of the bushing. Just didn't want to hammer it out to find out I can't get the new one in. Similar findings to Spressomon, it looked to be in good shape.

Yeah... Took some effort to find via my phone. Actually found a link to it in another thread....I am guessing within a year I will be replacing both lca's along with the TC uca's and possibly going back to ome shocks...... After 2 years with the TC's and looking to rebuild the inner bushings for a 2nd time....I'm over it.
 
Finished wiring up the license plate light and reversing light kit. (Ended up being a waste of money as I switched the Halogen light to a low amperage 3x2 3 watt led in a flood pattern. ) I used the loom from the reversing light kit and the led light.



ForumRunner_20140101_155334.webp



ForumRunner_20140101_155349.webp



I also installed a set of Rigid Dually D2's with the driving light pattern on my Iron Man front bar. They are switched via an oem light switch from Slee. Found them for $268 a set with relay harness on amazon prime.

No pics of these yet.

ForumRunner_20140101_155334.webp


ForumRunner_20140101_155349.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom