What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)

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I've heard that this is a nightmare job. Curious on the difficulty and time commitment. Any tips?

It's a huge PITA, but the labor cost at the dealer was scarier (for me at least, with Lexus...Toyota didn't want the work).

I feel like it would be much easier the second time around, now that I've figured out how the frontend comes completely apart.
 
I've heard that this is a nightmare job. Curious on the difficulty and time commitment. Any tips?

I will know when I'm done. There are several write up about it. I followed the write up for removal. My biggest concern right now is keeping the rack centered during installation. I have the steering wheel tied down.
 
Beginning the process of refreshing the front end suspension in preparation for a lift.
I haven't decided which kit i'll be going with but Ironman is holding a strong lead, OME in second place. (i'd like at least 2.5")

So far i've ordered up lower ball joints - drivers side completely shot and clunking
Debating on also doing the tie rod ends as a "while i'm in there" kind of thing.

Anything else anybody recommend so I don't have to do 2 alignments?

Today I also picked up a winch mount and some cutting blades in preparation for a hidden winch setup. Nothing crazy, just a budget backyard build for mostly stuck in the beach sand situations.
 
All four ball joints are in; Got my front diff seal today from @cruiseroutfit so the CVs went in! Also sprayed some Rustoleum on top of the ball jointsWas going to install the knuckles, brakes and wheels, but couldn’t find the grease, so I moved on to the Torfab bracket and ARB air compressor. Way harder than I had hoped, since the items needing relocation didn’t really have enough wiring or clearance to do so, esp. the horn. I also had to cut a bolt for length to clear the part under the bracket. Another issue is which way to aim the air outlet. Turned clockwise, it comes out aimed at the power steering reservoir. Turned back it is aimed close to the AHC reservoir. Haven’t gone any farther, so I do not know the clearance once the outlet is finished.

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Beginning the process of refreshing the front end suspension in preparation for a lift.
I haven't decided which kit i'll be going with but Ironman is holding a strong lead, OME in second place. (i'd like at least 2.5")

So far i've ordered up lower ball joints - drivers side completely shot and clunking
Debating on also doing the tie rod ends as a "while i'm in there" kind of thing.

Anything else anybody recommend so I don't have to do 2 alignments?

Today I also picked up a winch mount and some cutting blades in preparation for a hidden winch setup. Nothing crazy, just a budget backyard build for mostly stuck in the beach sand situations.

First off, go IronMan. You won't be disappointed. If you're replacing LBJs, then get the 555 from Cruiser Outfitters and get the 555 tie rods ends as well. Replace the bushings on the anti-sway bar (2 "grommets" on both end links and then bushings on the mounting cradles). Are you going to keep your OEM UCAs? If so, check the bushings on those. Hopefully with a 2.5" targeted lift you'll get enough adjustment out of them to stay in alignment. You will likely need to consider new UCAs if going that tall.

Since you'll have the wheels off, I'd go ahead and do a bearing service on both front hubs. Clean, inspect and regrease (or replace if needed) the bearings. Follow procedure and tighten everything to spec.
 
First off, go IronMan. You won't be disappointed. If you're replacing LBJs, then get the 555 from Cruiser Outfitters and get the 555 tie rods ends as well. Replace the bushings on the anti-sway bar (2 "grommets" on both end links and then bushings on the mounting cradles). Are you going to keep your OEM UCAs? If so, check the bushings on those. Hopefully with a 2.5" targeted lift you'll get enough adjustment out of them to stay in alignment. You will likely need to consider new UCAs if going that tall.

Since you'll have the wheels off, I'd go ahead and do a bearing service on both front hubs. Clean, inspect and regrease (or replace if needed) the bearings. Follow procedure and tighten everything to spec.

Hey! I actually just ordered up the 555 LBJ's from Cruiser Outfitters. They came highly recommended on the 100 series Facebook group and they were super responsive when I contacted them.

I'll add the sway bar bushing/grommets to my list as well.

I do plan on keeping the stock UCA's. If I go 2" in the front and 2.5" in the rear do you think that will be doable? If worst comes to worst and I can't get the alignment in spec, i'll definitely upgrade those. I also plan on getting either the Slee or Ironman diff drop kit.

I also just very recently serviced both front hubs, re-packed grease, bearings and replaced the pads/rotors.

Question, why do you recommend Ironman over OME? I have heard the ride quality is better with Ironman, but other than that nothing to conclusively point to Ironman.
 
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Hey! I actually just ordered up the 555 LBJ's from Cruiser Outfitters. They came highly recommended on the 100 series Facebook group and they were super responsive when I contacted them.

I'll add the sway bar bushing/grommets to my list as well.

I do plan on keeping the stock UCA's. If I go 2" in the front and 2.5" in the rear do you think that will be doable? If worst comes to worst and I can't get the alignment in spec, i'll definitely upgrade those. I also plan on getting either the Slee or Ironman diff drop kit.

I also just very recently serviced both front hubs, re-packed grease, bearings and replaced the pads/rotors.

Question, why do you recommend Ironman over OME? I have heard the right quality is better with Ironman, but other than that nothing to conclusively point to Ironman.

Sounds like you're well sorted! Excellent that you already serviced the bearings. That's one that many overlook. IronMan valving is better suited to our 100s. Lots of folks here would say OME ride "rougher". Of course, you'll have plenty say that they love OME. My personal experience is that the IronMan Pro Foam ride significantly better than the OME. That's a bit of an unfair comparison though as the OME are nitro charged and lower volume than the foam cell large volume of the IronMan. There have been some really good reviews coming in on the IronMan Nitros (which are a more fair comparison to OME nitros). I will say this about the IronMan nitros, they have a better high speed valving which dampens some of the harshness making for a slightly better ride.

If you're going 2" up front, then I think you'd be fine on OEM UCAs. Check the bushings though and check the UBJs themselves. They are replaceable with 555 as well if necessary.
 
Sounds like you're well sorted! Excellent that you already serviced the bearings. That's one that many overlook. IronMan valving is better suited to our 100s. Lots of folks here would say OME ride "rougher". Of course, you'll have plenty say that they love OME. My personal experience is that the IronMan Pro Foam ride significantly better than the OME. That's a bit of an unfair comparison though as the OME are nitro charged and lower volume than the foam cell large volume of the IronMan. There have been some really good reviews coming in on the IronMan Nitros (which are a more fair comparison to OME nitros). I will say this about the IronMan nitros, they have a better high speed valving which dampens some of the harshness making for a slightly better ride.

If you're going 2" up front, then I think you'd be fine on OEM UCAs. Check the bushings though and check the UBJs themselves. They are replaceable with 555 as well if necessary.
Thanks for the explanation, I think that greatly helps reaffirms the reason I have IronMan in first place. I'll probably order those up sometime next week after I make some progress on my suspension refresh. Looks like they have a pretty good deal going on with a pair of free recovery boards.
 
Thanks for the explanation, I think that greatly helps reaffirms the reason I have IronMan in first place. I'll probably order those up sometime next week after I make some progress on my suspension refresh. Looks like they have a pretty good deal going on with a pair of free recovery boards.

Looks like the kit is on sale for $799 still. Currently out of stock (super popular at that price for sure). I don't see the free recovery boards anymore though. Was thru another vendor other than IronMan USA? I know MetalTech used to carry IronMan, but they spun off on their own I do believe. Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 Nitro Gas 2" Suspension Kit - Performance Load (0-440LBS)
 
Looks like the kit is on sale for $799 still. Currently out of stock (super popular at that price for sure). I don't see the free recovery boards anymore though. Was thru another vendor other than IronMan USA? I know MetalTech used to carry IronMan, but they spun off on their own I do believe. Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 Nitro Gas 2" Suspension Kit - Performance Load (0-440LBS)

If you go to the home page it shows it there. Doesn't mention it otherwise. My buddy just ordered a set for his 4Runner and it included the free recovery boards.
 
If you go to the home page it shows it there. Doesn't mention it otherwise. My buddy just ordered a set for his 4Runner and it included the free recovery boards.

$799 and free traction boards is a dang good deal for sure then! If I needed a lift kit, I'd be all over that.
 
Thanks. I did. It’s pretty basic but it works great for my needs. Weighs maybe 25 pounds and I can install or remove it in 10 minutes. Some plastic bins fit nicely underneath to make it a poor mans drawer system. I still use the 3rd row seats occasionally so it’s nice that I can swap stuff around easily.
Could you expand on what you did to make the platform please? Looks like something I’d be interested in doing myself. Thanks!
 
With no interstate travel or waiting in traffic due to non essential drivers, the Cruiser really pushed the mileage envelope the past few weeks. 15mpg versus the typical 13.5mpg.
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Could you expand on what you did to make the platform please? Looks like something I’d be interested in doing myself. Thanks!

Sure thing. I'll PM you so we don't disrupt the thread to much. If anyone else is interested, feel free to PM me.
 
Sounds like you're well sorted! Excellent that you already serviced the bearings. That's one that many overlook. IronMan valving is better suited to our 100s. Lots of folks here would say OME ride "rougher". Of course, you'll have plenty say that they love OME. My personal experience is that the IronMan Pro Foam ride significantly better than the OME. That's a bit of an unfair comparison though as the OME are nitro charged and lower volume than the foam cell large volume of the IronMan. There have been some really good reviews coming in on the IronMan Nitros (which are a more fair comparison to OME nitros). I will say this about the IronMan nitros, they have a better high speed valving which dampens some of the harshness making for a slightly better ride.

If you're going 2" up front, then I think you'd be fine on OEM UCAs. Check the bushings though and check the UBJs themselves. They are replaceable with 555 as well if necessary.

Tough dog adjustable rears are sure thing to consider btw
 
With no interstate travel or waiting in traffic due to non essential drivers, the Cruiser really pushed the mileage envelope the past few weeks. 15mpg versus the typical 13.5mpg.
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With your LRA tank - you must be getting 500+ miles between the fill ups!
 

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