What do I have? 40 newb (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Day 3 of driving 40 this week. It’s almost time to fill it back up with fuel, which means I’ve burned about 3/4 of a tank of fuel since I got it going.

Ran across a buy on a 2F I’m thinking of picking up.

I don’t “need” it as my engine runs strong. It just has some minor oil Leaks and pretty sure it needs valve seals. I always said I would LS swap if I engine swapped but it rubs and drives like it should now and I don’t know if I want to deal with a swapped rig later down the road finding parts and etc.

If I can get a complete suppsed to have been rebuilt 2f for under a grand locally is it worth it?

What I’ve been reading is the early f motors are basically bullet proof, minus sub par oiling. The main issue is pets availability.

The last one I (almost) bought went for $600, but that was a few years ago. Just as another data point.
 
Checked the alignment yesterday. I need to install my caster shims still. Looks like I need to get the centering tool for the knuckles and do that as well. But at least it won’t kill the tires in the driving I’m doing.

6FA572F0-BC8B-4D91-BA99-B37A410423B3.jpeg
 
Checked the alignment yesterday. I need to install my caster shims still. Looks like I need to get the centering tool for the knuckles and do that as well. But at least it won’t kill the tires in the driving I’m doing.

View attachment 3649233
Those numbers pretty good for your tractor. Tie in is the only thing that’s adjustable… I’ve heard of offset bearings for the knuckles, but never seen them. They were built before the days of fancy computer alignment made.

I’ve only used the pushpin method for alignment for the last three sets of tires.
 
Your negative caster #'s indicate your steering maybe over responsive, darty, and like your chasing it when making minor corrections.
 
Your negative caster #'s indicate your steering maybe over responsive, darty, and like your chasing it when making minor corrections.
Good catch... I'd not looked at the +/- and was thinking 1.7*, 2* looked good... but it's the wrong way. Stock is 1* so 4* seems good with arm-strong steering. With P/S id suggest 6* instead.
 
Nice! When I wet around to places here, I was told the computer doesn’t go back that far. And that includes the dealer in Lincoln.

another reason to come down there
 
Nice! When I wet around to places here, I was told the computer doesn’t go back that far. And that includes the dealer in Lincoln.

another reason to come down there
Honestly they shouldn’t need to load the factory specs. Just get a reading and set the toe in that’s all that’s adjustable other than using caster shims.
 
I bought a temp sender a while back since mine had an aftermarket in it when I got it. The factory gauge seems to function if I ground it.

It looks like I need an adapter to screw the oem sender into the cyl head. Does anyone have a line on one of these or a thread size? I was hoping to just pop the old one out and the new one in without looking much coolant.

Also I guess I need to get a shorter power steering belt as mine slips off and on.
 
Bought two belts for the power steering, installed one as it was actually shorter than the one I had on it. It was the wrong thickness, ended up putting the one that has been on the 40 for at least 20 years back on it and it fits perfect. Not sure why it’s so hard to cross reference the number and get a gates belt locally.

Drove it to my daughters tumbling tonight, hit my first dirt road on the way due to road construction. Then hit the big highway for the first time since it’s been out. It’s happy cruising at 55, just hums along.

Also the speedo cable isn’t hooked up incase anyone hasn’t noticed the odometer hasn’t changed.

F9DA12FE-0693-4B83-8DC7-47CBB6FEA1A7.jpeg


6D317F7B-08AD-4EF1-B75A-8E9B3CA16DBC.jpeg
 
Another day spent day dreaming of road trips and less work.

Topped off and took the long way home. Should have worked on my tire carrier.


I’ve wondered since I installed my lift if I have the correct bushings for my 69.

There’s a little gap, how much difference are there in the later bushings? I have a little bit of road wonder/ torque steer and I wonder if it’s from this.

7DCEB091-EDC3-4BB9-B334-7A61ADA779B2.jpeg


0F611006-9B27-40AB-BEBD-9C819AF60E12.jpeg
 
As I drive this more and more I’m looking at better seatbelt options. I currently have lap belts in the back for the kids and nothing for myself up front.

Seeing others use this kit I believe it’s what I will go with.


Over the last couple days I removed the radiator and pulled the power steering pulley off so
I could address my belt squeak / coming loose constantly.

I found the front lower mounting bolt for the power steering pump was non existent and had been for quite some time. I Installed a new bolt, with lock washer and tightened up. Reinstalled pulley and now everything lines up 100% better and feels rock solid.

I would say this bracket was built in the 80s and oddly enough it’s pretty damn good. I would like to find a better option eventually. Although it worked for 20 years before it was parked so why mess with it.

I rattle canned the fan shroud while it was out and adjusted the radiator support to let the radiator drain have more room and the radiator to align better. Little things.

Today I plan to drive it on its longest run yet, about 40 miles round trip. We shall see how it goes. At least the 200 or tundra will be a chase rig for if we have issues.

37707743-60B2-4456-A60A-D1F82B8824E9.jpeg


02E6A0CB-E0C0-4AAD-8982-A5A405CE2063.jpeg
 
As I drive this more and more I’m looking at better seatbelt options. I currently have lap belts in the back for the kids and nothing for myself up front.

Seeing others use this kit I believe it’s what I will go with.


Over the last couple days I removed the radiator and pulled the power steering pulley off so
I could address my belt squeak / coming loose constantly.

I found the front lower mounting bolt for the power steering pump was non existent and had been for quite some time. I Installed a new bolt, with lock washer and tightened up. Reinstalled pulley and now everything lines up 100% better and feels rock solid.

I would say this bracket was built in the 80s and oddly enough it’s pretty damn good. I would like to find a better option eventually. Although it worked for 20 years before it was parked so why mess with it.

I rattle canned the fan shroud while it was out and adjusted the radiator support to let the radiator drain have more room and the radiator to align better. Little things.

Today I plan to drive it on its longest run yet, about 40 miles round trip. We shall see how it goes. At least the 200 or tundra will be a chase rig for if we have issues.

View attachment 3665583

View attachment 3665584
If you don’t need 3 point belts, these look close to original style. I put them in the back of mine (have original fronts).
 
As I drive this more and more I’m looking at better seatbelt options. I currently have lap belts in the back for the kids and nothing for myself up front.

Seeing others use this kit I believe it’s what I will go with.


FWIW, I put those in for my kids. They seem to do the job as long as they pull them tight and keep them buckled. I even use one to fasten in a convertible car seat for my 3 year old. Obviously not crash test rated, but it satisfies my wife’s concerns.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom