What do I have? 40 newb (3 Viewers)

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Ian @RevISK put a Bypass Fuel Filter on his weber and a few others adjustment to get his running better recently. (I think replaces the FPR with the BFF)

The BFF bleeds the excess fuel back to the tank to keep fuel bowl from over filling on webers.

Ian sorry to nominate you and know you are shaking down too - will buy supply some beers next weekend.
 
OlYellr said:
Ian @RevISK put a Bypass Fuel Filter on his weber and a few others adjustment to get his running better recently. (I think replaces the FPR with the BFF)

The BFF bleeds the excess fuel back to the tank to keep fuel bowl from over filling on webers.

Ian sorry to nominate you and know you are shaking down too - will buy supply some beers next weekend.
Click to expand...
Bypass fuel filter helped a bunch. As did installing one step larger Air Correction jets.

Baselined the carb and started from scratch.

Set timing to 11*
Idle at around 700 and change
Solid 15 vac

I’m at 10,000’ so yeah.
 
clrussell said:
It does, manual choke. Still doesn’t idle worth a crap.

Honestly no clue on timing. It doesn’t spark knock, starts good, doesn’t diesel when you shut it off. I actually haven’t touched the ignition side of this rig other than to hook up coil power. (HEI distributor was in it when I bought it) I haven’t even changed the spark plugs that were in it from at least 2004.. (maybe I should)
Click to expand...
I might suggest that you take a closer look at your timing. It can have quite an effect on idle and driveability. And at least look at your sparkplugs and maybe even adjust your valves.
 
Pighead said:
I might suggest that you take a closer look at your timing. It can have quite an effect on idle and driveability. And at least look at your sparkplugs and maybe even adjust your valves.
Click to expand...

I did adjust valves after I got it going.

I’ll bring home a timing light tonight and stop to pick up some new plugs. I had actually been wanting to swap plugs anyway but these just keep ticking.

What should I set base timing to? The 11* posted above?

Also my distributor has vacuum advance, which is not hooked up. Should I use it?

Edit: thank you for taking the time to help.
 
clrussell said:
I did adjust valves after I got it going.

I’ll bring home a timing light tonight and stop to pick up some new plugs. I had actually been wanting to swap plugs anyway but these just keep ticking.

What should I set base timing to? The 11* posted above?

Also my distributor has vacuum advance, which is not hooked up. Should I use it?

Edit: thank you for taking the time to help.
Click to expand...
Getting the correct plugs for these engines is sometimes not as easy as it once was. My FLAPS usually has to order them in.
You're going to have to figure out what base timing is best for your rig, your altitude and gas and compression and stuff. Some say that 17* is good, that's right where the BB starts to disappear out of the window. I liked 22* for a while, now I'm just over 30*. If you have a vacuum gauge, advance timing to best manifold vacuum then back it off just a tad. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, advance it until it starts to ping and back it off just a bit. Carry a 10mm endwrench in your center console so you can easily adjust timing anywhere.
Does your vacuum advance work? If so, use it. if not, fix it and use it.
 
Pighead said:
Getting the correct plugs for these engines is sometimes not as easy as it once was. My FLAPS usually has to order them in.
You're going to have to figure out what base timing is best for your rig, your altitude and gas and compression and stuff. Some say that 17* is good, that's right where the BB starts to disappear out of the window. I liked 22* for a while, now I'm just over 30*. If you have a vacuum gauge, advance timing to best manifold vacuum then back it off just a tad. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, advance it until it starts to ping and back it off just a bit. Carry a 10mm endwrench in your center console so you can easily adjust timing anywhere.
Does your vacuum advance work? If so, use it. if not, fix it and use it.
Click to expand...

Noted on the vacuum and timing advance.

I do run 91 ethanol free so I can probably bump timing.

I have a vacuum gauge and a way to test the advance.

I’ll see if I can get these things done this weekend.
 
I will say there has been no single thing that improved my Weber functionality but it is greatly improved.

Valve adjustments were the greatest single player,
But the bypass fuel filter (from a late 70’s early 80’s Jeep 🤮) was like $9 at O’reillys and contributed significantly. Even though you are at a lower elevation, I would take a look at your jets. Since you can’t idle I would assume your idle jets are clogged or sized wrong.

Getting a feel for the lean drop on these carbs isn’t hard, it’s just annoying, but necessary.

I arrived at 11* advanced by a lot of back and forth, I’ll probably increase my air correctors by one more size then do all the lean drop and advance dance again to see where I end up.

Again, I’m currently at 10,000’ and will be traveling down to 8k and up to 13+k so my jetting is different.

Also, I know this sounds dumb, but swap out your current fuel filter for a fresh one. I kept overlooking that small item. They’re cheap but get dirty fast.
 
www.autozone.com

Duralast Fuel Filter FF3420DL

Shop for Duralast Fuel Filter FF3420DL with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com www.autozone.com

Basically this
 
So before I left work today I threw in a new set of plugs. They are autolite “56” basically one step cooler than the 65s mine calls for. The ones I put in are new old stock off our shelf from probably the 80s.
Then I reset the car idle air mixture screws and it runs 200% better. I guess the plugs were just trash even though if you’d look at them you would think they were ran border line lean.

I still haven’t checked timing, or vacuum/ advance. But it runs so much better I’m afraid to mess with anything else.

No joke feels like it picked up 20hp.

Old plugs. Bottom is #1 plug, top is #6

BA3E9F2B-F350-44E6-8129-D6A71D162D66.jpeg
 
clrussell said:
So before I left work today I threw in a new set of plugs. They are autolite “56” basically one step cooler than the 65s mine calls for. The ones I put in are new old stock off our shelf from probably the 80s.
Then I reset the car idle air mixture screws and it runs 200% better. I guess the plugs were just trash even though if you’d look at them you would think they were ran border line lean.

I still haven’t checked timing, or vacuum/ advance. But it runs so much better I’m afraid to mess with anything else.

No joke feels like it picked up 20hp.

Old plugs. Bottom is #1 plug, top is #6

View attachment 3687166
Click to expand...

Those look decent from here; your carb jetting is close to spot-on.
 
clrussell said:
Went to install it and found one of the wires off the original flasher, reinstalled and magic I have blinkers again.
Click to expand...
I have long appreciated the ability of the LandCruiser to respond positively (like magic) to even the slightest attention.
 
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