Got my new GXOR spec LT Omegas back home. Getting them and some Ceika RBBK (rear big brake kit), a new rear driveshaft, and a rear panhard relo installed this week while I travel for work.
What did you do with your truck this week? (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter BMThiker
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Here is the best available map as of now. I think I was somewhere along 16 when I got stuck in the hole. It was the only consistently muddy section of the park as it was a low lying area that followed along the creek. I'm not sure though since the signs said Jeepers Creekers and that isn't listed anywhere.
Thanksgiving hiatus at Jocasse
Was the gate locked? This was Horsepasture?
Didn't make it around to Horsepasture... We just tent camped at Devils Fork
Milestone achieved
It was open when I went through there about a month ago. We got to Jumping Off Rock to watch the sunset, then drove to the bottom of the road. It was late and we had company with us so turned around and drove back out.
Muster Grounds is open too. This is a 9 mile track to a campground. Several Jeep groups out there and terrain identical to just north going down to the Gorges site. We used 4low to control speed in several steep sections but there is nothing technical.
We tried to connect to Horsepasture Road from the south afterwards but everything on the map was either gated or went through The Cliffs where there was a guard station. On second thought I should have tried there anyway since it is a mapped road and seen what the guard had to say.
Either way, we ended up near Twin Falls again so stopped by around sunset. Tried out the new to me camera with some longer exposure as it got dark.
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I did a bunch of silly upgrades on the GX. Rear big brake kit, my rebuilt and respec'd omega long travel icons, and a new rear driveshaft!
Anyone close?
Calling in an emergency! Anyone in the Rowland, NC area that can help a fellow GXer out? Stuck on Skilar and Iona Church Dr just off of I 95. GPS coordinates (34.5205721, -79.2521420) thanks in advance! Cell is 954-257-5898.
Calling in an emergency! Anyone in the Rowland, NC area that can help a fellow GXer out? Stuck on Skilar and Iona Church Dr just off of I 95. GPS coordinates (34.5205721, -79.2521420) thanks in advance! Cell is 954-257-5898.
Did you make it? Hope all is well
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He made it out (wasn't me).
Trollhole fixed me up on an inspection and some brake work a couple weeks back. Thanks Greg, Marshall, & crew. Gave me a few things to consider addressing.
Had fun with DIY and pulled the valve cover gasket, replaced the spark plug tube gaskets, cleaned up, new valve cover gasket, new PCV valve and gasket, new hoses on top to intake, checked valve clearances (still in spec), cleaned the throttle body, new throttle body gasket, and a couple EGR vac hoses.
Had fun with DIY and pulled the valve cover gasket, replaced the spark plug tube gaskets, cleaned up, new valve cover gasket, new PCV valve and gasket, new hoses on top to intake, checked valve clearances (still in spec), cleaned the throttle body, new throttle body gasket, and a couple EGR vac hoses.
Added a 2006 LX
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- #3,295
Finished up the snorkel project.
Comfirmed the Advance housebrand AGM battery manufactured 6/18 is dead. Advance initially tested weeks ago and said good, but never could get a full 12 volts and it wouldnt hold charge. Left overnight to charge and retest and it failed.
Unfortunately I wasnt the original purchaser so no warranty. Boooo.
Unfortunately I wasnt the original purchaser so no warranty. Boooo.
Looks like such a clean and effortless job.
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- #3,299
Swapped out lower A-arms on Dig-Dug. I've gone this route once before. Changing just the bushings and the ball joint is a pain-ina-butt. @Trollhole was there the first time I tried in Chuck's driveway. The bushings didn't want to budge and we used a torch to heat up the arm to extract them. The alignment bolts had seized and I had to cut one of them out, thus requiring a quick fix to get home. Throwback pictures for nostalgia.
Flash forward to the best way to do this. Just buy the whole A-arm from Mr. Toyota. It comes with fresh new bushings and ball joint already assembled. In fact, you can't even buy a factory lower ball joint from Mr. Toyota, you have to go MOOG or Pro-Forged. Add up the cost of OEM bushings ($150/side msrp) and ball joint ($25) and factor in the time to press out 4 bushings and 2 ball joints and then press in 4 bushings and 2 ball joints on an awkwardly shaped hunk of steel. . . it makes sense.
First thing to do is actually take a paint pen and mark the alignment eccentric cams, so you can at least get close to alignment when you reassemble. Then remove castle nut on your outer tie rod. Remove the two 19mm bolts from the bottom of your spindle (ball joint attachment bracket). Swing the whole spindle assembly out of the way and use a bungee or cargo strap to hold there.
Disconnect your coilover by removing the bolt from the A-arm bracket. Remove the 19mm nuts holding the two camber/toe adjustment bolts from the frame mounts. Slide the toe adjustment sleeve out of the bracket and bushing. You may need to use a brass drift to accomplish this.
Use a sledge to bang the A-arm free from the frame brackets. Add to the scrap heap for recycling.
New part pron.
Reattach this bracket.
And reinstall. Don't forget to torque all your nuts and replace cotter pins as needed.
Flash forward to the best way to do this. Just buy the whole A-arm from Mr. Toyota. It comes with fresh new bushings and ball joint already assembled. In fact, you can't even buy a factory lower ball joint from Mr. Toyota, you have to go MOOG or Pro-Forged. Add up the cost of OEM bushings ($150/side msrp) and ball joint ($25) and factor in the time to press out 4 bushings and 2 ball joints and then press in 4 bushings and 2 ball joints on an awkwardly shaped hunk of steel. . . it makes sense.
First thing to do is actually take a paint pen and mark the alignment eccentric cams, so you can at least get close to alignment when you reassemble. Then remove castle nut on your outer tie rod. Remove the two 19mm bolts from the bottom of your spindle (ball joint attachment bracket). Swing the whole spindle assembly out of the way and use a bungee or cargo strap to hold there.
Disconnect your coilover by removing the bolt from the A-arm bracket. Remove the 19mm nuts holding the two camber/toe adjustment bolts from the frame mounts. Slide the toe adjustment sleeve out of the bracket and bushing. You may need to use a brass drift to accomplish this.
Use a sledge to bang the A-arm free from the frame brackets. Add to the scrap heap for recycling.
New part pron.
Reattach this bracket.
And reinstall. Don't forget to torque all your nuts and replace cotter pins as needed.
Slightly passenger side of center. Front end of 2000 LC with 244k miles. Never had a leak of any kind. Same approximate spot the AC drips but definitely not water. No smell but a little sticky on my finger. Thoughts?
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