What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (81 Viewers)
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Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Awesome pic of the fawn!
Ordered five factory steel wheels for the 80-series from Japan. 8x16 for $203-each delivered. MegaZip was offering free shipping for 24-hours.
JohnnyUtah2
SILVER Star
Drove up into Wyoming, into Idaho, and down through Utah back home. Improvised trip with my best friend. Two 80s doing fun stuff!
Went out of town for the weekend with the family
Temps were stable and pinned under 190° the entire time. Blue hub clutch working great.
I have hubcaps available for these.
For Sale - Los Angeles - Japan Genuine Toyota Steel Wheel Hub Cap (4)
Great condition set of Japanese option steel wheel center caps (Type F) Ornament Sub-assy Wheel Hub (42603-60180) Compatible with 80 series steel wheels (will not fit factory alloy wheels) Approximately 110mm in diameter (4.33 inches) $250 Will ship
forum.ih8mud.com
You can always tell a rich man...they always have 2 high-quality ladders.
In my defense, one if them was freeYou can always tell a rich man...they always have 2 high-quality ladders.
I have an idea, what about the upper third belt hole. Could you make a cover that would insert through the bolt hole and cover that whole area? Kinda like the black front door triangles that cover the mirror access?
Finally broke down and did what most of ya'll said I should do and got the RAM Mount.
I resisted because paying almost $80 for a phone mount just didn't sit right, lol. But then I had an epiphany: Father's Day! So my wife paid $80 for a phone mount, which sits much better.
This all started when I noticed that the mount I was using that inserted onto the CD slot in my head unit had actually cracked my head unit bezel. So I started exploring options that would attach elsewhere. After doing some research mostly here on mud, I purchased a Steelie from NiteIze. It's a great mount, but the combined weight of the Steelie and my phone proved to be too much for my 30-year-old brittle dash. It was literally pulling the dash panel away. So back to square one.
I needed something that was going to be secure, would not be attached to the dash in any way, and would allow me to place the phone in an optimal position for both viewing safely and touching the screen if needed. (I often have to hit pause and say "*sigh* what?" while driving LOL.) I Finally realized that the RAM Mount was going to be the way to go.
Mounting to the a-pillar grab handle attachment point is genius. This thing is never going anywhere. The double ball ratcheting extension combined with going landscape vs portrait allows me to position the phone in such a way that it minimizes the blind spot on the windshield, and doesn't hinder visibility of the gauges or air flow from the vent. It also gives full access to the grab handle, and I'm able to avoid contact with the phone from any abrupt or sudden steering wheel movement. I can even touch the screen without taking my right hand off the wheel, which is kind of cool.
I have a flat USB charging cable on its way from amazon. The plan is to run that behind the dash and come out via one of the unused switch ports on the right side of the dash so that I can charge the phone while it's in the mount.
So basically as other RAM mount purchasers have said, "I should have done this a long time ago."
I resisted because paying almost $80 for a phone mount just didn't sit right, lol. But then I had an epiphany: Father's Day! So my wife paid $80 for a phone mount, which sits much better.
This all started when I noticed that the mount I was using that inserted onto the CD slot in my head unit had actually cracked my head unit bezel. So I started exploring options that would attach elsewhere. After doing some research mostly here on mud, I purchased a Steelie from NiteIze. It's a great mount, but the combined weight of the Steelie and my phone proved to be too much for my 30-year-old brittle dash. It was literally pulling the dash panel away. So back to square one.
I needed something that was going to be secure, would not be attached to the dash in any way, and would allow me to place the phone in an optimal position for both viewing safely and touching the screen if needed. (I often have to hit pause and say "*sigh* what?" while driving LOL.) I Finally realized that the RAM Mount was going to be the way to go.
Mounting to the a-pillar grab handle attachment point is genius. This thing is never going anywhere. The double ball ratcheting extension combined with going landscape vs portrait allows me to position the phone in such a way that it minimizes the blind spot on the windshield, and doesn't hinder visibility of the gauges or air flow from the vent. It also gives full access to the grab handle, and I'm able to avoid contact with the phone from any abrupt or sudden steering wheel movement. I can even touch the screen without taking my right hand off the wheel, which is kind of cool.
I have a flat USB charging cable on its way from amazon. The plan is to run that behind the dash and come out via one of the unused switch ports on the right side of the dash so that I can charge the phone while it's in the mount.
So basically as other RAM mount purchasers have said, "I should have done this a long time ago."
You can go limo dark on the rear passenger and sliders. Front has to allow 25%
I thought about doing something like that when I first got my right hand drive/KPH rig. I ran a GPS speedometer app on my phone for a few weeks even. Now I'm over 3 years in and I have completely memorized all of the conversions, so it's not even an issue anymore, lol. I imagine you'll find the same to be true over time.
What was easier for my brain was divid by 5, multiply by 8. So 40 divided by five is 8. 8 x 8=64.
Then after a while you just memorize it all. 20 is 32, 40 is 64, 50 is 80, 60 is 96, and so on. When I'm on the freeway I just point the needle straight up, lol. Because 70 is 112.
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
Customer wanted me to convert his driver seat to manual sliders instead of dealing with multiple gear and motor replacements over the years. Replaced only the sliding portion and left the reclining back and bottom seat lift motors in place and functioning as before. Has more range of forward and back movement compared to the motorized factory setup.
If you manufactured these they would sell like hotcakes!! especially giving extra leg room!
Finally seem to have resolved irritating coolant leak from thermostat housing after changing t-stat couple weeks ago.
After a false start with forgetting to scrape off all the old gasket and ruining the new one, I got it to where it would only leak right after I parked at work on 3d floor of garage and turned off the engine. Never leaked driving on flat ground so I assume it had something to do with the engine tilting back going up the ramp. Thought I had it fixed 2x over the past few weekends only to show up and work Monday mornings and leave a stain of shame on the garage floor.
Was beginning to think there was more than just a correlation between the leak and me wearing work clothes. This weekend I drained a gallon of coolant, removed the upper rad hose, two of the sensors, and the water bypass hose. Was planning to take the whole unit off, clean everything up and try again with a new gasket. But I just stared at it for 5 minutes (covered in sweat) and said **** it…I‘ll pay someone else to do it right. Put everything back together with the only difference being that I replaced the clamp on the water bypass hose (pictured) with one of those two-ring oem clamps held together by a long bolt and spent some time making sure it was seated and sealed properly. Magically…no more leak. Took it to the parking garage 2x Sunday and again this morning and all good. I could never see coolant coming out of the bypass hose when leaking but I had a sneaking suspicion it wasn’t seated properly and the coolant might have been spewing out of there onto the t-stat housing. And it turns out the clamp wasn’t very tight. Still not sure if that was the issue or if I had overfilled the other times and got it right this time so coolant wasn’t looking for a way out. Either way I’m relieved (until it happens again). Been a frustrating couple of weeks chasing this.
After a false start with forgetting to scrape off all the old gasket and ruining the new one, I got it to where it would only leak right after I parked at work on 3d floor of garage and turned off the engine. Never leaked driving on flat ground so I assume it had something to do with the engine tilting back going up the ramp. Thought I had it fixed 2x over the past few weekends only to show up and work Monday mornings and leave a stain of shame on the garage floor.
Was beginning to think there was more than just a correlation between the leak and me wearing work clothes. This weekend I drained a gallon of coolant, removed the upper rad hose, two of the sensors, and the water bypass hose. Was planning to take the whole unit off, clean everything up and try again with a new gasket. But I just stared at it for 5 minutes (covered in sweat) and said **** it…I‘ll pay someone else to do it right. Put everything back together with the only difference being that I replaced the clamp on the water bypass hose (pictured) with one of those two-ring oem clamps held together by a long bolt and spent some time making sure it was seated and sealed properly. Magically…no more leak. Took it to the parking garage 2x Sunday and again this morning and all good. I could never see coolant coming out of the bypass hose when leaking but I had a sneaking suspicion it wasn’t seated properly and the coolant might have been spewing out of there onto the t-stat housing. And it turns out the clamp wasn’t very tight. Still not sure if that was the issue or if I had overfilled the other times and got it right this time so coolant wasn’t looking for a way out. Either way I’m relieved (until it happens again). Been a frustrating couple of weeks chasing this.
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
It's possible however the motor mount brackets need to be cut off for the release handle to fit properly.
