What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (13 Viewers)

Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
13,244
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
Spent a nice weekend camping in the mountains with friends then got an awful knocking noise on the way back to town. It took a while to notice it because my camp stove rattles in the truck and I was listening to the stereo. By the time I really noticed the noise was not just my gear rattling around, turned off the stereo, determined it was coming from the truck and found a safe place to stop it was knocking and rattling like the dickens. Lost maybe 40% power by the very end and temp crept up to 207 (would normally be around 187 under these conditions). It did not lose oil pressure according to the gauge, did not lose oil. Fan and belts all tight and normal, no leaks other than the same old ones. Engine died as I rolled to a stop in D (did not turn off ignition). I was able to fire it up again, but the noise was terrible, so I just shut it back down right away.

I'm pretty sure the engine is toast, but I haven't had time to fully look into it. 340k miles, so I'm not too sore about it, but it was running like a top with no symptoms just the day before.

Any theories as to anything other than internal engine failure that might cause a clattering, knocking noise like a motor in it's death throes? Definitely not coming from the PS pump, but I could not pinpoint where the noise originates other than "from the engine." Timing chain? Water pump? Kind of afraid to start it up.

View attachment 3056194

And kudos to the tow truck guy for helping me get it into the garage without starting it up.

View attachment 3056195
I'm sorry for your loss.

Having a "sudden" start to clattering like that usually means it's catastrophic.

Drain the oil, then let us know if you have a pan full of glitter or Mocha Latte.
 

thatcabledude

GOLD Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
5,665
Location
Walton Co, FL
Replaced internal harness and all 6 solenoids in the trans and swapped steering box out. Will rebuild and port the one I pulled. Also did a fluid service/grease job and tire rotation.

FFE3EAEB-7CAA-4667-9F5A-5BA1B1CDBED9.jpeg
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Still rust free :cool:
ED9CA8C3-D7BE-44ED-9A3D-668B9C365EB2.jpeg


37s sure look normal on an 80.... until they come off.
7D1A2834-3A5C-42EF-8342-20117EDF95B1.jpeg
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
13,244
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
Well, the ignition tumblers broke unexpectedly. The parts I now need to replace are:

(Qty 1) 45280A (45280-60290) BRACKET ASSY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER
(Qty 2) 45897 (45897-60010 superseded by 45897-12020) BOLT, STEERING LOCK SET

It's dead in the water until I can install something. I had to use a forklift to move it into the building. Fortunately it happened in front of our warehouse at work.

It took me about an hour to dig into the dash to find the problem. Finding a replacement and getting it swapped will take a bit longer.

IMG_20220710_110429186 (Medium).jpg
IMG_20220710_111653354_HDR (Medium).jpg


IMG_20220710_171227092_HDR (Medium).jpg
 

thatcabledude

GOLD Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
5,665
Location
Walton Co, FL
Well, the ignition tumblers broke unexpectedly. The parts I now need to replace are:

(Qty 1) 45280A (45280-60290) BRACKET ASSY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER
(Qty 2) 45897 (45897-60010 superseded by 45897-12020) BOLT, STEERING LOCK SET

It's dead in the water until I can install something. I had to use a forklift to move it into the building. Fortunately it happened in front of our warehouse at work.

It took me about an hour to dig into the dash to find the problem. Finding a replacement and getting it swapped will take a bit longer.

View attachment 3056273View attachment 3056274

View attachment 3056276
Can you start it with a screw driver at that level of tear down?
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
13,244
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
Can you start it with a screw driver at that level of tear down?
Not that I've been able to tell. Right now, the internals are broken so I cannot get a screwdriver into it.

That's what I was going for, but I have to remove the aluminum tube-looking thing on the stand-off first. That's where the guts are broken internally and the ignition switch is screwed to the back of it.

At this level of tear down, the steering wheel has to be manually held unlocked and the shifter lock is kinda funky.

I was (am) looking for a way to jury-rig it to make it so I can drive it home or just drive it for work.

Still talking with Toyota to find out availability of parts. It's not looking good.

I have to cut off the bolts that hold all that to the column. The new bolts are torque to shear heads.
 
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
3,667
Location
South west utah
Spent a nice weekend camping in the mountains with friends then got an awful knocking noise on the way back to town. It took a while to notice it because my camp stove rattles in the truck and I was listening to the stereo. By the time I really noticed the noise was not just my gear rattling around, turned off the stereo, determined it was coming from the truck and found a safe place to stop it was knocking and rattling like the dickens. Lost maybe 40% power by the very end and temp crept up to 207 (would normally be around 187 under these conditions). It did not lose oil pressure according to the gauge, did not lose oil. Fan and belts all tight and normal, no leaks other than the same old ones. Engine died as I rolled to a stop in D (did not turn off ignition). I was able to fire it up again, but the noise was terrible, so I just shut it back down right away.

I'm pretty sure the engine is toast, but I haven't had time to fully look into it. 340k miles, so I'm not too sore about it, but it was running like a top with no symptoms just the day before.

Any theories as to anything other than internal engine failure that might cause a clattering, knocking noise like a motor in it's death throes? Definitely not coming from the PS pump, but I could not pinpoint where the noise originates other than "from the engine." Timing chain? Water pump? Kind of afraid to start it up.

View attachment 3056194

And kudos to the tow truck guy for helping me get it into the garage without starting it up.

View attachment 3056195

Did it throw a check engine light or any codes?

I had a really bad misfire and my engine was shaking like crazy and making bad knocking noises along with substantial loss of power when some rodents chewed through my spark plug wires one night while camping.

Definitely worth checking your sparks plugs and wires.

Fingers crossed you don't need a new motor.

🤞


Speaking of camping and rodents.... I had a patients sample at work yesterday and found spirochete bacteria in their blood. Its a pretty rare thing to find but it turns out they got tick borne relapsing fever from a tick bite while staying in a cabin up on the mtn.

20220710_192316.jpg


The little purple spirals floating around the red blood cells are the bacteria. Borellia hermsi is the bacteria that causes this in Utah.

Watch out for rodents in cabins!!!!
 
Last edited:

bryson

I do stuff.
SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
1,444
Location
Utah
Hey all! I have been PM'ing the crud out of my 1997 FZJ80 for a couple years and am getting ready to conduct my first non-pm work on the Sherpa Mobile!! I bought a rolling chassis (allegedly a RHD HDJ81) with locking diffs in it. I don't know for sure what year the chassis is and have opted to just retro the locking thirds into my existing housings rather than doing a complete axle swap because I don't want to have to mess around with differences in mounting the entire axles. I am going to shoot a parts order out tomorrow and one of the things I am going to purchase is this E-Locker retro kit from Yotamasters but have a quick question: Apart from the gaskets which I know are different, can I buy two (2) of these kits and use the bolts, drill, and tap to do both the front and rear?

Additionally, does anyone who has done this recommend me completely removing the housings from under my rig to accomplish this magical feat? I am pretty freaked out about drilling and tapping the new studs in a straight manner!!

When I bought the rolling chassis I got the entire wiring harness for it as well and have no use for it. I am thinking of selling it so if anyone wants more information lemme know.

Thanks everyone, I am excited...

View attachment 3055820

View attachment 3055822

Here is the kit I was talking about:

The retro kit for the front 8" e-locker will NOT work with the rear 9.5" e-locker. The rear uses larger diameter studs and the housing and locker are 100% different than the front.

Also, to fit that front locker in a non-locker housing you will need to grind/cut/otherwise remove a section of the axle housing in addition to drilling and tapping for the 4 studs. The picture below (graciously stolen from the internet) shows the difference between a stock, non-locked housing on the left versus a modified-for-an-e-locker housing on the right. The pic is of an 8" REAR axle from a pickup/4Runner, but the mods to the housing are the same for the 8" axle in the FRONT of your 80/81.
locker.jpeg


As for modifying the rear 80/81 housing for the e-locker, it's along the same lines as the front but not as drastic if I remember correctly.
 
Joined
Jun 27, 2020
Messages
60
Location
Redding, ca
The retro kit for the front 8" e-locker will NOT work with the rear 9.5" e-locker. The rear uses larger diameter studs and the housing and locker are 100% different than the front.

Also, to fit that front locker in a non-locker housing you will need to grind/cut/otherwise remove a section of the axle housing in addition to drilling and tapping for the 4 studs. The picture below (graciously stolen from the internet) shows the difference between a stock, non-locked housing on the left versus a modified-for-an-e-locker housing on the right. The pic is of an 8" REAR axle from a pickup/4Runner, but the mods to the housing are the same for the 8" axle in the FRONT of your 80/81.
View attachment 3056539

As for modifying the rear 80/81 housing for the e-locker, it's along the same lines as the front but not as drastic if I remember correctly.
Bryson, that is wicked cool information on the difference in the studs. I used a JDM vin decoder and found this out about the donor Chassis:
1657580866472.png


I also called and talked to a SLEE representative about just swapping the HDJ axles straight over to my 1997 and was told that there were quite a few differences (apart from the obvious RHD issues) between my axles and the HDJ axles. The Slee rep told me I should just regear and put ARB's in and call it good. He also thought it was very strange that these differentials are 4.56 gears and not something much taller. He commented on how Diesel rigs did not come stock with 4.56. He also admitted that he was not an expert either. Sounds like it would be easier to just retro the thirds into my existing housings. Hopefully the axles shafts are not crazy different or something freaky like that.

Thanks again,
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
121
Location
Deep South
Where's the "silly questions you are afraid to ask" thread?

Mine is this - what option comes on my LX450 where the little round blank is on the lower right side dash by the steering wheel? I can't find a reference in the manual. Thoughts would be most appreciated.

Lexus 450 blank.JPG
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
1,077
Location
Texas
Where's the "silly questions you are afraid to ask" thread?

Mine is this - what option comes on my LX450 where the little round blank is on the lower right side dash by the steering wheel? I can't find a reference in the manual. Thoughts would be most appreciated.

View attachment 3056825
Manual throttle cable
 

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