VW TDi into the Project Wrong Way FJ40
- Thread starter BenjaminCA
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Another .02 worth of free opinion. The long game. If you think you’re going to upgrade later, (I know you will 
), do the head studs now while it’s sitting on your stand. I think you made the comment about how “easy it is” to work on the TDI while it’s out of the (a) vehicle.
), do the head studs now while it’s sitting on your stand. I think you made the comment about how “easy it is” to work on the TDI while it’s out of the (a) vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #43
Solid feedback my bro, I’m thinking if it’s out I might as well…Another .02 worth of free opinion. The long game. If you think you’re going to upgrade later, (I know you will
- Thread starter
- #44
My plan as well, pull the cover, one stud at a time…
- Thread starter
- #48
Words to live by.
I like what you are doing here. I have a FJ40 that doesn't run well and an ALH tdi that doesn't drive well. ie - my interest level is high.
Your videos are good. Great intro, which is half the battle. The most annoying thing with youtube videos is shaky camera work, lack of tripods for the camera, and poor audio. I didn't notice either in your videos. Keep up the good work.
Your videos are good. Great intro, which is half the battle. The most annoying thing with youtube videos is shaky camera work, lack of tripods for the camera, and poor audio. I didn't notice either in your videos. Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #50
Did a final drive and a “weigh in” to compare once the new motor is in. I’m excited.
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- #51
Also ended up doing the ARP studs on the ALh…
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- #52
Making some headway on the TDi swap. Rob is coming to get this 2F and Sniper, so I needed to get rolling with pulling the motor. Always an adventure, and some concerns popped up.
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- #53
Slight issue popped up… lost the battle, but hopefully not the war. Attempted to mount the TDi into the FJ40, and hit my first big hurdle. It didn’t fit. So I turn to you wizards, anyone have any ideas on how to tackle this issue?
Jack, the guy I got my rig from - Often said if you have a hammer and a torch "It has to fit"
Move the engine mounts on frame or make plates for the motor mounts that moves engine forward 1" or pull the tunnel cover and make a recess in the firewall, looks like the tunnel cover lip may fit under the vacuum thingy, bottom of a coffee can & a hole saw should work. That hose nipple is gonna line up perfect with the firewall so thats a pickle, larger coffee can ?
Quick searching they make a vacuum pump delete kit for that very purpose. Basically a cut flat plate to cap it.
Says you'll just need some other vacuum system then for your brakes
Says you'll just need some other vacuum system then for your brakes
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- #57
I can delete the vacuum thing, but there’s a coolant port just below that on the block that extended the same length.
- Thread starter
- #58
I was thinking of doing a little trimming at the firewall. I’m going to pull the vacuum piece and is tall the block to see how much room I’ll actually need , I think. I’d rather not move the mounts because then I’ll be adjusting everything from shift levers to driveshafts.
Cut and shift the trans mounts forward? Ive seen V8 swaps with the shift cane bent and a new hole to account for moving everything forward. Would require drive shaft modifications. If it will work, a 60 series 4 speed top place may make it cleaner.
Yo! Do not cut up your fire wall… no reason for that!!! How close was it to actually bolting up?? Can you not angle the input shaft of the transmission downwards a tad? Seems you were on the right path with the floorjack. Position it again underneath the transfer case and jack her up to bring the nose of the input shaft down. IDK just my 2 cents if was really close. I stick with the Toyota diesels… fit like a glove. Two 12hts and now a 1hdt!! In my horde of cruisers!<Thanks for the content. Makes me laugh… not at you but with you!! Ryan
