VVT vs VVTI

[ShakyHandJeff]

Hi! New member here (or actually trying to be a new 100 owner...)
I've been searching for a 100 and wondered opinions on how much the improved performance of the VVT-i is valued.
If given the option of a 2005 LX with lower miles (107k) vs 2006 LX (170k), which way would you lean?

 

[Couvi]

I only have experience with the non-VVTi models (2004 LC) and find it's perfect for my use. I think the 100 series sweet spot is 2003-2005 without the added complication of the secondary air system but others would disagree (06/07's command a premium). We also have an 05 Sequoia that does have the extra horses and it does feel slightly peppier – it's a 2wd version so that will come into play somewhat as well.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

It's either non-VVT (pre 05) or VVTi (06/07), there's no just VVT. For your question, depends on price, condition, maintenance.

 

[GTV]

I think the 100 series sweet spot is 2003-2005 without the added complication of the secondary air system but others would disagree (06/07's command a premium).

As an 07 owner I too believe 03-05 LX is the sweet spot where you get the most for your money. If more power is desired headers can be more easily added to the pre 06.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Stay away from VVT - it's an interference motor with a timing belt.

 

[silver02accord]

Hi! New member here (or actually trying to be a new 100 owner...)
I've been searching for a 100 and wondered opinions on how much the improved performance of the VVT-i is valued.
If given the option of a 2005 LX with lower miles (107k) vs 2006 LX (170k), which way would you lean?

i have an 06 and specifically wanted it for increased hp &06-07 will prob always get a premium over the other years

 

[ShakyHandJeff]

Thanks everyone!

 

[Rhetoric]

Stay away from VVT - it's an interference motor with a timing belt.

So?

Interesting you call out the timing belt. All UZ series engines have timing belts. Change the timing belt system components when they are due and the chance of any issues is close to 0.

Budget for every 90k miles or 9 years. Most people are gonna dump these trucks before they ever hit that anyway considering how old they are.

 

[Kamran Khan]

i have an 06 and specifically wanted it for increased hp &06-07 will prob always get a premium over the other years

I have an 06 and have never used premium, and there no premium only sticker on the fuel door.

 

[Rhetoric]

I have an 06 and have never used premium, and there no premium only sticker on the fuel door.

I think they were talking about price premium. And unless you owned that truck from new, who knows what could have happened to your sticker.

06-07 LCs were “Premium Recommended”
06-07 LXs were “Premium Required”

But clearly now nearly 20 years down the road, running 87 in these trucks hasn’t been a killer. Neglected maintenance has.

 

[NE Snowman]

After owning 2 vvti 4R's, I purchased nonvvti on purpose. I'm a simple guy
nothing wrong with vvti, just more possible problems but 2001LC has a great permant fix for them.
cam seal job is much more involved on vvti as well.

 

[Rednexus]

VVTI is only interference is the timing belt breaks while the VVTI is activated. It's a non-issue unless you never change the belt on the engine. SAIS can easily be deleted if you are in a non-emissions state (if you are in an emissions state you are stuck with it). I've ran 87 octane in my VVTI 2UZ for about 5 years no with no problems, and have towed 10,000+ miles with it as well. I did load an 87 tune a couple of years ago, however.

I've driven both VVTI and non-VVTI 2UZs (with the non-VVTI being in a Tundra that's lighter than my GX) and there is a pretty significant difference in power between the two. Headers can also be added to a VVTI 4.7 as well, giving them a large power advantage over a non-VVTI engine.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

The 2uz with vvti is nice to have especially if you are driving interstate and you need that tad bit of extra power when overtaking. Everything else between the 2005 and 2007 model is 95% identical.

 

[2001LC]

1) Condition
2) Miles.
3) Age.

As a general rule: Newest, lowest miles is best. But; Condition trumps all.

Key is, a proper inspection to determine condition. Few can actually do a proper inspection. I just had a dude, with a low miles 100 series. Bought to me to lookover, his new purchase. He had, hired two different shops to inspect. One was a Toyota Dealership the other an INDY. Neither, gave any reason to be concerned, before he purchased. I found in just 2 minutes, the number ones reason to avoid. Severe rust, in frame and underbody body! Which is the very easiest, for anyone to spot.

VVT (Variable Valve Timing) is a general term for a system that changes when an engine's intake and/or exhaust valves open and close to improve performance and efficiency, while VVTi (Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence) is Toyota's specific name for its VVT technology.
4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi, is on intake cams only.

True:
VVt is sweet for passing and climbing high altitude passes. Has the sport car feel!

True:
VVt is a true interference engine.

True:
VVt cam seal replacement, are a tougher service than those on non VVT.

True:
S.A.I. system is easily and legally dealt with, keeping it fully functional.

True:
Unless vehicle ONLY driven off-road. It is federally illegal. To block-off S.A.I. system or modifying in anyway, that reduces it's pollution reduction purpose.

Ture:
AHC is more to maintain. But is so sweet when properly maintained.

 

[Jake Trice]

1) Condition
2) Miles.
3) Age.

As a general rule: Newest, lowest miles is best. But; Condition trumps all.

Key is, a proper inspection to determine condition. Few can actually do a proper inspection. I just had a dude, with a low miles 100 series. Bought to me to lookover, his new purchase. He had, hired two different shops to inspect. One was a Toyota Dealership the other an INDY. Neither, gave any reason to be concerned, before he purchased. I found in just 2 minutes, the number ones reason to avoid. Severe rust, in frame and underbody body! Which is the very easiest, for anyone to spot.

VVT (Variable Valve Timing) is a general term for a system that changes when an engine's intake and/or exhaust valves open and close to improve performance and efficiency, while VVTi (Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence) is Toyota's specific name for its VVT technology.
4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi, is on intake cams only.

True:
VVt is sweet for passing and climbing high altitude passes. Has the sport car feel!

True:
VVt is a true interference engine.

True:
VVt cam seal replacement, are a tougher service than those on non VVT.

True:
S.A.I. system is easily and legally dealt with, keeping it fully functional.

True:
Unless vehicle ONLY driven off-road. It is federally illegal. To block-off S.A.I. system or modifying in anyway, that reduces it's pollution reduction purpose.

Ture:
AHC is more to maintain. But is so sweet when properly maintained.

My 06 LX 470 came from California, I’m sure it has SAI. How do I get ride of it?

 

[Rhetoric]

My 06 LX 470 came from California, I’m sure it has SAI. How do I get ride of it?

 

[Jake Trice]

If you want to be a bitch I’ll give you my address.

 

[Rednexus]

There are lots of bypass kits out there, ranging from around $100 to $500+, or you can DIY one (I'll be replacing my Hewitt kit with one I make from scratch as I don't like the way the Hewitt kit splices into the MAF harness).

That being said, had I known about the simple fix that @2001LC developed, I would have gone that route instead of deleting the SAIS. I only deleted it to proactively keep the rig from getting stuck in limp-home mode in the inevitable event of SAIS failure. They are probably still a bit more reliable deleted, but the delete kit itself can introduce MAF sensor issues.

 

[Rhetoric]

If you want to be a bitch I’ll give you my address.

Neat.

Search.
Read threads.
Educate yourself instead of hijacking other threads and whispering sweet nothings in my message board ears.

Maintain the SAIS. Routes of deletion are just headaches.

 

[Jake Trice]

There are lots of bypass kits out there, ranging from around $100 to $500+, or you can DIY one (I'll be replacing my Hewitt kit with one I make from scratch as I don't like the way the Hewitt kit splices into the MAF harness).

That being said, had I known about the simple fix that @2001LC developed, I would have gone that route instead of deleting the SAIS. I only deleted it to proactively keep the rig from getting stuck in limp-home mode in the inevitable event of SAIS failure. They are probably still a bit more reliable deleted, but the delete kit itself can introduce MAF sensor issues.

Thank you for this information. I appreciate it.