I apologize I responded that way. You are right, I will absolutley search myself so I learn more than I need to know. Thanks for the tips.
VVT vs VVTI
- Thread starter ShakyHandJeff
- Start date
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Dents removed and first full wash by me. Haven’t even waxed it yet. OEM Lexus paint has always lasted a long time.
GTV
SILVER Star
Changing a starter is a PITA on any 2UZ. Can confirm it’s much worse with all the SAIS garbage in the way. If headers were currently available I wouldn’t think twice about installing them and deleting every piece of this nonsense.
You don't!
You inspect and modify when need or in there, which ever comes first.
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW!
I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this
This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this
This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
I deleted the SAIS when I did the starter, including removing the SAS tubes and blocking them at both the switching valve on the back of the engine and on the manifolds. Headers were a 20+ hour DIY job for me and would have been well over that if the SAIS tubes had remained in-place.
The starter job is probably worse on a GX470 as the vehicle/engine bay are smaller than a 100-series. Even 1/4" more room would have been appreciated.
price premium on resale
05' here, Can't say about power since never drove an 06-07 100 series, but on mine it feels "adequate".
No idea what that SAIS system does, pretty sure some emissions regulations that the car had to pass to be sold in the US, but I CAN tell you why I like the 05 and older...
NO TPMS!!
Every other car I have has that s&^%$t and I hate it!
It's Always on! If it's too hot, or a bit cooler, or the battery is dead, or the sensor doesn't read, or it disconnected, or just BC it's a s^&%ty system.. aghh!
If you don't know by look or feel that your tire is low you shouldn't be driving it anyway.. get an UBER!
(Sorry about that.. Rant over).
Also, glass headlights... so nice, too bad the fogs are plastic, but I'm about to laminate them so I don't have to deal with them anymore.
No idea what that SAIS system does, pretty sure some emissions regulations that the car had to pass to be sold in the US, but I CAN tell you why I like the 05 and older...
NO TPMS!!
Every other car I have has that s&^%$t and I hate it!
It's Always on! If it's too hot, or a bit cooler, or the battery is dead, or the sensor doesn't read, or it disconnected, or just BC it's a s^&%ty system.. aghh!
If you don't know by look or feel that your tire is low you shouldn't be driving it anyway.. get an UBER!
(Sorry about that.. Rant over).
Also, glass headlights... so nice, too bad the fogs are plastic, but I'm about to laminate them so I don't have to deal with them anymore.
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you can splice the tpms wires to stop the blinking light i just did it last week was super easy and no more light!
My local tire shop charges $68.50 to replace a TPM sensor and reprogram it (parts + labor). This process takes them about 20 minutes. I've had all 5 sensors on my GX replaced over the past couple of years. The new sensors have a rubber stem and are easier for airing up/airing down than the OEM sensors which have a metal stem. I have zero lights on my dashboard at any time.
I personally much prefer having a working TPMS system as I tow often and I want to know if I have an actual flat when on the road. After all, most of the miles on all of our rigs are highway miles, not trail miles. With new sensors, the system works perfectly, despite being nearly 19 years old, and the new sensors should last 5-7 years before they need to be replaced again. Assuming the sensors last 6 years on average, that's only $57.08 per year to have a working TPM system (well-worth it IMO).
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@silver02accord Could you help point me to the resource you used for splicing?
I was searching the forums for the most recent posts regarding TPMS light problems and saw your comment-- here's been my recent(ish) experience with my '07 LC......
I have a 2007 LC that began to display a flashing TPMS light months ago. On 2 subsequent stops at my local garage the techs were able to "relearn"/ "reprogram" as they interpreted the flashing light to indicate a communication issue between the sensors and the system... each time, the light would stay off a few days and then come back on.
Next stop was my local Toyota stealership where I was told (after the light became solid) that I had 2 sensors that were not communicating and/ or were dead-- so they replaced both with OEM sensors (with 1 of them being in the spare tire).
Well, that worked for a very short time and the solid light came back on-- and I've just ignored it because I can't stand to part with another few hundred $ to replace the other 3 TPMS sensors with OEM as they are telling me that in general, Toyota's are "peculiar" about interfacing well with aftermarket sensors.
I check my tire pressure regularly so I've considered doing the bypass mod that I've seen outlined elsewhere on the forum (using a T-nut to short/ ground out a wire behind the glove box) but I'm just anxious about altering anything electrical
Any advice?
@Patron100LC I've had an '07 for a couple of years and didn't realize until I was looking into a MAF code that popped up, that a PO did the SAIS delete in the past. My understanding is the SAIS is part of the emissions system that runs on a cold start (no crank after 3- 4 hours maybe?) to help the cats heat up faster and reduce cold-start emissions. Looks like the PO used the one from Hewitt Technologies ..... Hewitt-Tech Gen 1: Secondary Air Injection System Bypass Kit (Plug & Play) - https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-1-v36h/ ....
I would not run any S.A.I. block off kit. Especially ones that wire into MAF. MAF sensor is very sensitive as its signal ECM picks up is. I've seen these kits, result in engine over heating & stalls. Worst case is when a bad MAF result in to much fuel in mixture. This burns up $2K a piece CAT faster than anything else.
A flashing CEL, is often a bad MAF. Do not drive with flashing CEL. Fix or have towed to be fixed.
I've a mod that keeps S.A.I. system intact and improved, as such, keeps vehicle street legal.
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW!
I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this
This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this
This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470 manufacture in Japan for the USA market.
It also applies to all 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi such as in the: GX470, 4Runner, Sequoia, etc. Every 2UZ-fe 4.7L VVT engines, S.A.I. filter will fail. AND then get CAT...
The Hewitt kit sucks. The "no splice" kit adds 2 more connectors into the MAF harness, while the "splice kit" requires you to well, splice the harness. I was getting weird MAF behavior with my Hewitt kit that I realized was due to a bad connection in the Hewitt connector (as the problem would temporairly correct itself if I unplugged/replugged it in). Upon opening up their MAF pigtail, it had an opened soldered joint in it.
So I just built my own SAIS bypass using a guide from Tundrasolutions,.com which is what I'd recommend doing. I cut the OEM MAF harness and added an 8 pin Deutsch connector into it. My harness goes in after that and has it's own waterproof relay and a new MAF connector from Ballanger Motorsports. The MAF has 5 wires, so 2 wires go to the starter relay in the fusebox to trigger the SAIS bypass. If this gives me issues in the future I can remove it and add in a new one. Over on the GX470 forum, a ton of people (bypassed and not) are having MAF issues that I attribute to old, fragile connectors.
So I just built my own SAIS bypass using a guide from Tundrasolutions,.com which is what I'd recommend doing. I cut the OEM MAF harness and added an 8 pin Deutsch connector into it. My harness goes in after that and has it's own waterproof relay and a new MAF connector from Ballanger Motorsports. The MAF has 5 wires, so 2 wires go to the starter relay in the fusebox to trigger the SAIS bypass. If this gives me issues in the future I can remove it and add in a new one. Over on the GX470 forum, a ton of people (bypassed and not) are having MAF issues that I attribute to old, fragile connectors.
